Smallmouth Hunter

If the spool is NOT moving: Unspool all the line onto another reel or spool, then put a piece of electric tape around the spool, and re-spool all the line. Problem solved. If the spool is moving: Take the reel apart, take all the grease off the main gear and drag washers, then re-grease with a lighter coat of grease.

Just use like 20 yards of backing instead of the heavy, dense tape.

Eh.. Most rods have 13"+ handles. A lot of rods are priced under 130 obviously. There are lots of Med moderate graphite rods. The difficult part is finding a rod that is Med Moderate and between 7'1 and 7'4.

Too much or too little grease can cause gears to wear faster than usual.

I need a cranking rod that fits all of the following: 1. Must be between 7'1 and 7'4. I would like to get a bit longer rod for longer casting. 2. Must be graphite, not glass or composite 3. Must be medium power, moderate action 4. Must be under $130 5. Must have a handle length longer than 13". Handle length is from the top of the lock nut down to the end of the rod. Fore grip is not included in this measurement. I have searched quite a bit and can't really find anything. I am not particular about brands just as long as it is a nice rod for the price. Thanks

Just keep your rod tip up and you will be fine.

Yumeya is releasing an aftermarket spool for the scorpion/curado I. I don't know if it will be lighter or shallower, but that could be the only option for a smaller line capac. curado. I want to see a curado 50I built on the BFS platform with the spool tension under the sideplate.

2 things. 1. Flush the bearings - the bearings in Lew's reels are typically stuffed to the brim with grease. Take them out and soak them in acetone, then reoil with 1 drop of a lighter reel oil. I saw a HUGE casting difference in my Lew's reel after I flushed the bearings. 2. Braking The Speed spool has a 5 magnet linear braking system. This is the simplest form of a magnetic braking system, and the braking force does not taper. What that means is when you set your brakes to control the beginning of the cast (which requires more braking then rest of cast), that same amount of braking force will be induced on the spool throughout the whole cast. In Daiwa's Magforce Z/V/3d, the magnetic force tapers as the spool slows down so there is less braking at the end of the cast. This gives much more distance. The magnetic taper occurs because the spool inductor is dynamic and shifts out farther into the magnetic field when the spool spins its fastest (beginning of cast), then the inductor retracts back to give less braking force as the spool slows down (and less braking to no braking is required. To simulate the mag z/v/3d of the dynamic Daiwa magnetic braking system, you can use your thumb. Set the brakes at about half of what is needed to usually control the cast, and go to cast. "Thumb" the spool more at the beginning of the cast, and taper off the amount of force you push on the spool. You will not need to use your thumb for the last 2/3 to 1/2 off the cast as the magnetic brake you set earlier can now control that part easily on it's own.

I imagine they are the same size or about the same size as the 200E which was a very small reel when viewed from the side. I hope it isn't as wide though.

Just try and guess mine.. you'll never get it :happy-devil-0048:

Wait for the chronarch E's to go for sale.. They will go down to 99 probably.

tatula can be had for $110.

I'm definitely going.

It's not worth opening up and trying to find the issue when it is probably something physically wrong with a part.. Definitely send that back.

Carbon fiber has to be weaved/interlinked and then compressed. I don't think they could make a spray version of that, but I think they will eventually come out with a strong composite plastic like material that can hold up.

The tiny one that is about 1.5 inches fell apart on me after 100-125 fish in the first week. The led weight on the bottom came out (which I should have superglued back on), and the skirt tails were a bit shredded up (which is expected).

I hope you all know that I was completely joking ^^^

Yeah I usually yell down his mouth as loud as I can, then slam him in the livewell, and cuss out a dog.

I can't wait to see how the fishing industry uses the whole 3d printing concept. Or do they already? You could make replica megabass 110's, griffons, etc quite easily I'd imagine..

You would be correct if he was talking about a rod with the hook keeper on the handle (butt side of the reel seat). I think the veritas has a hook keeper infront of the reel seat though (guide side of the reel seat) so in this case a heavier reel would balance it out.

New curado I, chronarch E, curado G..

Big ole copperhead snuck up on me last year and nearly bit me (which probably would have killed me). I took him out with an old metal pole that was stuck in the ground near the spot I was fishing. Those things are very sneaky!

Go with a 6'6 to 7' rod depending on your height, and I would go with MH for the power. Action is where is gets tricky. I have met people who prefer a parabolic rod, and I have met people who prefer extra fast (opposite ends of the spectrum). I personally like a fast action so you can set the hook right away. Sometimes in the summer, the bass are a foot under the surface of the water, and will eat it as soon as it starts to sink at the end of the skip. You will need a rod that can set the hook easily so you don't miss these fish.

They were gone within a week and a half. I called academy heaquarters (I think that is what it was) and asked if they had any zillion type R left in the whole US that they could ship to my store, and they said there was not one left. I missed out on the deal and was really bummed. I am not going to miss the Ch E deal though!

Relax, relax! Academy will surely have them for $65-75! Remember the sale on the zillion type R (200), and the sale on the curado E's (99)?