Choporoz

These two are far and away my highest confidence big worms.

IIRC, the first rod I bought with a specific technique in mind was a 'jig rod'. Turns out that it wasn't the dream jig rod I'd hoped for. But it is a great, technique-specific, spinnerbait rod. Most of my dozen plus technique-specific rods became that way in the same manner. I have one crankbait rod and one swimbait rod that are almost exclusively used the way I imagined when I bought them.

Had a few really good days with them this past winter. I only tie them on in winter, though I'm sure they work other times. I was targeting lmb on or near the bottom in 26-30 FOW. Fished it like a blade bait, cast it out and hop it back. Probably would work on suspended bass and/or schools chasing threadfin, but I only tried a few times years ago with no luck, so haven't gone back to it.

Better than coffee? At 5AM, I decided I wanted some Middle Eastern Prog Metal with breakfast. So, I told Alexa to play some music by 'Orphaned Land'. E.G.,: What I got instead was Hourglass, by Orphan. Nothing like a little deathcore to get your blood pumping first thing in the morning.

Thanks, all. Really appreciate the help. No place close to get my hands on any of them. Chose to order a Loomis GLX 802C JWR.

Owners, usually 3/0 and 4/0 Lightwire, but on occasion, 'normal'. I don't know that 7'3" is necessarily too long. Only that I snapped 7'3" similar power/action. I imagine many blanks would be more durable than the one I had. I do like the precision the 6'8", but I am open to longer. I cover big grass flats with 1/8 or 3/16 and longer would at times be welcome. So, I'm not firmly decided. Generally 7 or under would be fine.

Thx. This is on my short list. Would love an NRX or even GLX, but I'm just not yet convincing myself that I want to spend that much. Then again, this is how I spend vast majority of my time fishing, so not quite ready to set a ceiling yet.

I might have said the same last year. Seemed off for me, other than the smallish stealth guy - the one with the plastic blade. But I have had two days this spring already when a bladed jig with a Spunk Shad was fire. Very few hits on red so far, though.

Fishing when it was 42° in January was a lot warmer than fishing in 43° in March.

The Blaukat Block-it?

@DogBone_384 ,ty. The problem is one I haven't seen before. There is a hairline fracture approx 1/3 from tip. Sort of like surface is splintering with point of splinter towards tip. Split appears to be about 5-6 inches long, but it is hard to tell how long or how deep. I assume that it will worsen no matter what I do. Not enough room to apply any sort of glue or cement underneath without bending to where it will almost certainly spread. I had 7'3" LMH Helium made shortly after they stopped using NFC and it was never nearly as satisfying as this one. Length may have had more to do with that than the blank, but my opinion was formed. And then it snapped like a twig fighting a 2# fish....no high sticking or anything. I'm not off Kistler, but not convinced HE is way to go.

Sweet spot for my preferred fishing of Texas rigs and Jigs is 3/16oz weight (plus hook and plastic). I have used and LOVED a 6'8" Kistler He-3 LMH (NFC) casting rod for several years. That rod is sadly on its last legs. I am not sold on the Heliums that came after the NFC's. I am looking for a replacement. I haven't found anything real close to having similar action, sensitivity and weight. 12# Flouro is typically what I will use on it. The old rod will handle down to weightless for most plastics - that would be a plus. I have rods that will handle heavier; not looking for something versatile. Just want a rod that does one thing exceptionally well.

I used Fins Windtamer 15 on a spinning rod. I was suckered in by name :). Braid was fine enough, but wind knots were definitely no better than any other braid .

Power Pro, Suffix and Seaguar are all good and treated me well for years. Last year I spooled up some Daiwa J-braid 8 and I don't see changing back to the others. Smooth, quiet, durable, manageable... it has everything you could ask for in a braid.

If you haven't already, read the 'rare insight' thread pinned towards the top of this sub-forum.

I have pretty much stopped throwing swim jigs completely. I have probably the worst hook up ratio compared to any other lure. I have far more confidence with other moving baits.

@kschultz76 , thank you. I will take a closer look and try to avoid cutting any wires. @FloridaFishinFool reminded me, I've had mixed results crimping in much better situations.

For stuff i didn't want tethered, I superglued rare earth magnets a couple places near my seat on the inside of my yaks. Anything with steel stays where I put it. I highly recommend a Robohawk phone tether.

Variously described as 'Main power', or neutral safety starter switch. The fuse that blows is 15a. I lose starter as well as trim.

Thank you all. I am going to try butt splices and heat shrink at the two spots where the insulation is rubbed down, and shield the length with the split loom wrap. I put some plastic in between the wire and the motor frame, change the fuse and it started right up, so I'm pretty confident that is the extent of my problem for now. Not ready to tear into either wire bundle to get to the connectors.

I'm not positive since I haven't cut or disconnected anything, but I believe the red-striped yellow wire is a single insulated wire.... maybe 16ga or 14?). So I'm not sure how I'd use the wire pictured. (Sorry for my inept questions...I can barely use a multimeter. Aside from some basic terminal connections, I don't have a lot of experience. ) I may have just enough room/slack to cut at the two rubbed parts. Splice with the heat shrink connectors @MN Fisher recimmended, and then shield with the harder plastic that @FloridaFishinFool posted.

Ty, @MN Fisher . I haven't disconnected either end yet, so I have no clue whether I can pull it and simply replace new length of wire into existing connectors, or if I will need those, too. Unfortunately, that wire gets bound into a bit of a jumble buried, taped, bound and zipped behind 'other stuff'. I suppose maybe I can splice bit of new wire you recommend, replacing the worn section.

I have a 2022 60HP 4-stroke that is blowing 15a fuse on start-up. I inspected wiring and found red and yellow wire is chafing against metal. I have zero experience with engine electrical work. Any suggestions on how to obtain replacement wire, and then suggestions for removal and replacement? Can I safely tape it up in the interim?

When I walk out if Ollie's here with lures, I guarantee they are colors I've never seen before and never will again.

I always took two batteries, even with one 55. After the first windy day that you have to row back a mile to the ramp, you may, too. BTW, 70 is NOT too much. You may never need it on max, but if you do, you will be glad.