junyer357

Yea. Not good. Will break down and remove grease. Will work great for a very short time til blaster evaporates. To prove this next time you get greasy hands from lubing trailer bearings etc.., spray hands with wd40 or pb blaster and work around like soap. Will remove 99% of grease soap wont touch. Then simply soap n water to remove wd40.

You will still need some form of sealer to seal paint in. Water based paints like createx will not last well in a water enviroment. I would start with some scotchbrite pads and scuff blades up to give paint something to adhere to, and still may need an etching primer. Wood cranks require 2 sealers, one for wood and 2nd for paint. For spinner blades i would reccomend an automotive clear coat for sealing paint. Not as durable as crank sealers like devcon 2ton but also nowhere near as thick and heavy either.

Ive been very pleased with my nissan frontier. With the 4.0 v6 i have not had any trouble pulling the boats ice hooked to, including our 19' hydrasport ls180, ranger 461, and a 20' triton. Crew cab 4wd with long bed and rated for 6300#. Never had any trouble pulling or stopping, even on trips to guntersville and some of the hills around it.

Yea. I dont have the budget for a power turner. I was looking more at a simple dryer motor like you mention. I plan to get one i can also add a home made lure drying rod to as well for when i paint cranks. Im looking to keep my initial investment in building under $200, including a turner motor, threading jig, epoxies and such.

Yea. I have been following it as well. Ive made up my mind to get into it. Just looking and researching best way to get into it equipment/supply wise. Looking at getting an "all in one" kit to begin with that includes a threader and turner motor. Then i can see how fast i use what other supplys and order accordingly.

4 boxes and a gallon ziplock of plastics. Box 1 - terminal tackle. Weights hooks etc.. box 2 wire baits. Spinners,chatter, and buzz box 3 jigs. Box 4 my go to confidence cranks plastics bag is go to confidence plastics. Also 5 rods. M-xf worms m-f wirebaits mh-f jigs m-m cranks m-f spinner for light cranks, weightless worms, and shakeyheads.

Yea. I have fixed my line issues. I was using some older line on what was my crappie rig. I now have a better reel (pflueger supreme) and power pro slick 8 15# and using a 12# invisx floro leader. Its alot easier to see the yellow braid and im pinching down the barbs so deep set hooks havent been bad last few outings.

Ive pretty much made up my mind to get into it. Planning to get a power turner, i can also use it when painting cranks. I will probably buy a threader to match and help as a holder. I think i am going to start on a light 6' spinning blank for rooster tails and such. Forbthose of you who have been doing this a while, where would you say the biggest learning curves are?

yea if i do decide to go into building i would start with cheaper blanks and work on crankbait and light crappie/creek floating rods first. Im not as concerned about feel and finish on those as i am a bottom contact rod like I am jigs or worms. I made the mistake when i got into painting cranks of painting over some of my best lures first. I figured "eh been doing ok on painting cardboard lets give this a shot on and repaint some of my good cranks...". I now have a trashed $15 lucky craft crank that sits on my painting table as a reminder of what not to do.

Yea. That is my next step is to join a dedicated rod forum and read and learn. I did that when i got into painting cranks. Im leaning more torward getting into it but im still weighing out my options as well. I am checking in on costs to have some built for me instead as well. Im too old and funds are too tight to waste on quick decisions anymore. Nowdays i try to do more research and prethought into purchases and hobbies.

Ok. My thoughts on it were that if i did get into building i would start on a few crank rods before i work on a jig rod. This way i become better before i work on a contact rod where feeling is everything. If i decide to purchase custom or off rack it would be opposite and get the jig rod first.

Yea i understand. I already have been making/painting lures on n off for a few years now.

I would agree that making them myself would potentially save money. I try to do anything i can at home myself for this reason. My concern is sinking several hundered dollars into another hobby and then ending up with mediocre performing rods due to my skill level at it and wishing i had either bought a custom or off rack instead.

Some bps pro q's and extremes, on old daiwa samurai (prob close to 20yo), american rodsmiths, castaway, and lastly some blue ethos from acadamy. Thats what i can remember off the top of my head. The ethos will probably be later on since they are not bad for what i gave and may also end up becoming my gf's rods if she continues wanting to fish. I have a st croix premeier spinnning i bought a month ago my dad called dibs on as well but its a much later change out as well.

X2 I got mine a size larger than normal so i could add layers in colder weather. Ive been very pleased with mine and bibs and parka together were cheaper than either one alone on bps gear.

i am currently in the process of beginning to upgrade pretty much all of my rods across the board. Most of mine are either cheaper ($70-100ish) or older (12+ years same price ranges). Since upgrading a couple to better rods i am convinced to upgrade the rest. The better ones i have (2 avids) and have used are simply lighter, more sensitive, and resposive. I can tell how much the weight matters more now in my shoulders around midday depending on what im using. Lifting and working my avid worm rod all several hours doesnt work my shoulders like my bass pro jig rod does, since it feels like a broomstick in comparison. So here is my concern/question. Would i be better off in long run just saving up and buying a good quaility high end rod one at a time as i currently am, or would i be better off in long run learning to build rods and building them? I am looking to upgrade 10-12 rods total spinning and casting. 5 cranks, 1 jig, 3 spinner/buzz, 1 frog, as well as a spinning crankbaits and a spinning for senkos/shakeys.

Get some cheap toothpicks. Push the worm a lil deeper in over the hook eye so it covers the front of hook and line knot. Take toothpick and push through worm n eye of hook and break off flush with worm body. Also keep hook all the way in body over texposed. Its not a cure all but it does help tremendously

I cant say much on boat, not owning one but rangers from then are still popular and well liked in my neck of woods. I do have a boat with that motor though myself. Dad bought it new in 93 on a hydrasport we still use. Has been a very good motor. Always impressed us how quiet it is, esp compared to mercs. Only problem we had major on it was rectifier burnt up on water once. Other than that we had to have carbs rebuilt 3 years ago, but that was due to us not storing for winter properly and letting them gum up. Other than that its just changing plugs and water pump. For winter storage now we simply crank up with "rabbit ears" on it and pinch off fuel line right past bulb. Let it run til it dies and crank it back up a few times to make sure fuel isnall gone from carbs. Since we began doing this havent had any problems in spring when firing it up.

Ok. Ill check them out. What about the netbait salt licks? I can pick them up locally (bass pro is over an hour away) have searched and searched on them and basicly came up with squat on results. I like their craws and jig chunks alot. Soft material but not too soft.

I would reccomend a 7' med heavy with ex fast tip. I also second the st croix avids. Yes at $200 it is over budget but gander mountain is offering $40 mail in rebates on them knocking it down to about $160 for what most agree is a fantastic rod for the money.

Are you bounching them of structure or riprap? Thats when i do best on cranks, especially squarebills. More often than not i have one bounch off a rock and a bass nails it on the bounce

I can usually find invisx on amazon for about $55-60/1000yds if you keep an eye out and watch it.

Braid for me is only for spinning reels and frogs. Floro for jigs n worms and winter or deep cranks and mono for everything else.

Hmm. I may have to rethink my practice of taking the amputee off and saving it for transplants later with mend it glue.

I think part of why you are seeing few reveiws on it now is they just updated the design for this year and changed the model #. The older ones are held in pretty high regard, especially at their price point.