MickD

The torque argument is less of an issue now that we are using "micros" and other small guides that are located very low to the blank. I personally don't feel the advantage, but some do. It can easily be demonstrated, as stated above. The more powerful the blank the more the torque advantage can be felt. I agree with those who say there is no casting advantage or disadvantage to spiral. A custom builder may be able to cut one guide from the count with spiral, and since it will be near the tip, that is advantageous to sensitivity. With very light power blanks the use of spiral will prevent the tip from twisting 180 degrees when under heavy load. I like that, although I have rods that do that and they have never broken. With the small guides used today, spirals don't look as "goofy" as they used to.

If I think the reel needs to be disassembled, I let a pro do it. Both BC and spin reels these days are way too complex for me to risk screwing them up. I just take the covers off and do what I think necessary there. If I have to go deeper, I send it in. Exc for disassembling spools to service the drag on spin reels; that is not a problem.

If easy and effective casting is a priority, then match the power of the rod to the weight of the lures you intend to cast. It has to load properly to cast properly. From there, you go to action. I think fast is the default action for most techniques. It is very versatile, and with proper fisherman technique, can do anything.

My opinion (that means no data) is that if you get a snap swivel that is strong enough, it will be so big it will adversely affect lure action and might be seen by fish as something to be avoided. There are very good snaps available that are pretty small yet have breaking strengths well above 20 pounds, and that is what I buy and use when I want to quickly and easily change lures. For some lures, like cranks, I think the snaps are better than direct tying in that they don't affect action. It is also my opinion that the swivels on snap swivels really don't prevent line twist unless they are premium ball bearing swivels, and I'm not convinced that even they will prevent twist. I don't fish spinners very often. With some finesse baits I just tie to the leader/line.

The lowest part of the boat is the bottom of the lower unit, and it's easy to measure from the transducer to that. I think mine is set for 1 foot and I just know that when the display reads less than 3 feet, I'd better pay attention. It's all about how you want to use it and your personal preference.

Surprising only one mention of blades. Walleyes love them too.

Regarding a post up there somewhere, proper loading is imperative for easy and effective casting, but you can get proper loading with any action. I submit that Extra fast actions are more versatile, loading effectively for a wider range of lure weights than the other actions. Consider an extra fast action, stiff butt that goes well out toward the tip, but a light power tip. The heavy weight lures will cast well because it is the butt power that controls the load; the tip becomes inconsequential to the loading of the rod. With light lures the butt is inconsequential, but the tip power is the controlling parameter, and it is light power. So the extra fast rod just may, given it's right blend of butt and tip power, cast a much broader range of lure weights. Easily and naturally.

i own a lot of Daiwa reels, both spin and BC, both under the name of Daiwa and Cabelas Prodigy and whatever else they called them. They all are very smooth, last for many years, and it's hard for me now to consider other brands. My "revelation" came after many years of loving Shimano. Shimano is good, but when pressed for my fav, it's got to be Daiwa. For everything. I just don't think they will ever offer a product that is not excellent. Fuego CT, for this issue.

If you're not using braid, you will make a big step in sensitivity by changing to it.

For some reason most keepers are not made of the best material for corrosion; in builders' catalogs most are called stainless steel, but no specs. I've started using the REC titanium alloy keepers which are bullet proof for corrosion. The location I like, but which doesn't seem to have universal appeal, is the same on spin and cast, just in front of the seat on the bottom. High quality small single foot fly guides work well, too. They can be bent if you like to lie flatter than 90 degrees to the blank.

Agree, however that can happen with keepers, too. I've never had anything but surface scratching from this, and always right at the keeper, not the guide frame.

I don't see a problem with using a guide frame , not the ring, the frame. Those opposing this, what is your reason? All a guide frame is is a piece of "wire." Like a keeper is a piece of "wire." No guide is going to be distorted by the forces involved with doing this. No ring is going to be scratched (although rings are most likely harder than hooks anyway). Both are equally close to the blank, so the risk of scratching the blank is about the same for both. I don't put keepers on my fly rod builds, just use the first guide frame. Also keeps the leader loop out of the tiptop when wrapped around the reel. Some keepers on cast and spin rods can get tangled in the line while fishing if not positioned properly, so sometimes less is more. What's the problem?

Like my dad used to say when I was concerned about something like this, "50 years from now, who'll know the difference?"

If you want the rig to also serve as a surface outfit, you do not want FC. It sinks and will, not maybe, but will, screw up the action of most surface lures. Exc for the Whopper Plopper, which is basically a lure that can be retrieved with the line out of the water.

Having that end piece is very good news. A good rod-builder, or even one who is not experienced, can fix this rod so that its action change with the repair will be essentially not detectable. Follow the instructions in the link. Only an external sleeve should be needed for this one, and while glass is best, graphite will work almost as well. The lower the modulus the better. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Baitcast? How about a short review on the Hitena Pureline. I have some 21 # (.006 in diameter) on a spin tube rod and it acts like about 10 # braid. Just short time experience with it, but I'm impressed.

I don't catch any really big smb these days because my shoulders are so bad that I can't hold the fish out that far any more.

That little band holding the hooks together!!! Orthodontics bands? Why didn't I think of that? That may be the most valuable observation I've made this year. Thanks!

I submit that it is the same. The acceleration of the lure is different between braid and mono/FC. Or put it this way, you can do all kinds of jerks with braid, but you cannot get the really quick twitches with mono/FC, especially with a soft tip rod. With northern smb, they sometimes want it really quick.

I used to use DBN's ALL the time, and the gel-craw was the best bass color I tried. Didn't see or try the goby, but it simply has to work on smb. I found for some reason that the DBN outfished the DLN in identical colors. Their retrieve depth worked great in 4-8 feet water depth.

Sometimes one just cannot get the sharp jerks/twitches that the bass want with mono or FC. But braid, with its zero stretch, will do it. Even with a leader. The Gore fiber braids sink, as does FC. Better hooks sets, too, IMO.

Don't hesitate to use the Humminbird e-mail customer service. They have been very good and fast for me.

In my opinion, you don't want any mono or FC for that rod, considering your long distance casting requirement. Go with a braid no higher than 15 pound test. 10 pound will cast a mile and has the strength so you won't have to be "tender" with it. Braid is usually considerably stronger than its stated pound test. The only mono that will cast like you want is probably 4 or 6 pound test, and they are too fragile for me.

Take a look at the very extensive St Croix Avid offerings-they have to have something that will work. Don't confuse power and action ratings. What you want is a fast action in my opinion, certainly not moderate, possibly XFast. It is true that St Croix will most likely be more powerful than the others at the same power rating, but not that much. I find the St Croix line in fast action fine for what you want. My favorite rod for most of your techniques is a 7 foot medium power fast action St Croix Legend, but it's too pricey. The AVids (SCIII) are great rods, not that much below the SCV for performance. I would choose St. Croix or Loomis over the others if you can find the power/action combination you like.

A quick dunk will not break the grease down. You may be really looking for something since you dunked it. Opening the reel is pretty easy, no need to take it down any more than checking the condition of the grease on the main gears. It may have been ready for some attention before the dunk. Leave it open in a warm place for a while. + a drop of oil at all pivot points, bail roller, grips, etc. As stated many times above, it should not be a big deal.