Way2slow

I've got you beat there. I have 23 in my house, I know because I personally replaced all 23 of them with energy efficient, dual pane, storm windows, They told me they only charged $35 per window to take the old out and put the new in. However, they wanted $125 each to do the aluminum wrap around the window casings, so I didn't ever have to paint the casing again, that made it almost $4,000. Doing it myself, I also fenagled a discount from $275 per window, to $167 per window, so for over a $6,000 savings, I could do them myself.

You are paying at least $500 too much for it. Trailer adds about $150, and it will need tires lights and bearings serviced, That old of a TM, maybe $50. 9.9 in unknown condition, $150 - $200 max, it's going to need water pump, fuel pump and carbs rebuilt, and lower unit serviced. All the wiring will need to be inspected for dry rot and cracking and fuel lines will probably need replaced If it has been outdoors, and not run for a few years, it's not uncommon for condensation to have ruined the crank and rods, basically making it junk. All the boats wiring needs to be inspected. Mice love to use it for chew sticks.

Yep, it's called consumer testing. Design a build something as quick and cheap as you can, then let the end user do all the testing for you. That's the American way. So what if it fails and cost you mega bucks and some data you couldn't recover. It took over a year for them to get Windows 10 halfway right. That's why it chaps my butt reading that time limit you have to revert back out of 11 to 10, and I didn't do a full backup before installing it. I've pretty much convinced myself to revert back, do the backup, and then re-install 11. Just a little CYA as we called it in the military.

Look at all the new computer sales it generates over the next few years. Most home users do just fine with win-98 and win-7, but a whole lot of professionals have to use OS,s that are supported with the latest security and updates. Microsoft quits supporting older version.

I've stayed with 7 Pro on my on my HP Laptop. I still like 7 Pro best and have no plans on updating it, even though they will soon stop supporting it with security updates, but 7 Pro is not the best to use on touch screens and had to upgrade my old MS Surface Pro 3 to windows 10 when it came out to be able to do some of the stuff I needed to do on it Dropped that one and cranked the screen on it last year, and the touch screen quit working. It was almost $200 for an new screen with the digitizer, and I wouldn't give $100 for the POS, so I bought me a Dell XPS 2 in 1. I need one with touch screen, and that's the one I just upgraded to 11. It's only a couple months old and has the Gen-11 i7 eight core processer and a boat load of memory, 16 or 32GB, what ever the max it would hold was. It easily meets all the requirements of windows 11, so figured I would give it a try.

Just updated my laptop to windows 11, but made the dumb mistake of not doing a full backup to a remote drive first. Has anyone else upgraded to 11 yet, if so how do you like it. They only give you about 10 days to revert back to 10 if you don't like it. After that, you have to do a complete install of 10. So, I was wondering if others have tried it, and like it. I'm debating if I should go ahead and revert back to 10, do a complete backup and then re-install 11 before it hits that magic date., so if I start having issues with 11, I can just do a restore. I know I had all kinds of issues with 10 when it first came out and had to go back to 7 for a couple of years.

About the only time I've seen a need for sway control is when towing a heavy trailer that you can't get enough tongue weight on. as long as you can get 10% - 15% tongue weight, sway is generally not a problem. At 3,500 or so pounds on yours, that should not be an issue if the boat is positioned properly on the trailer.

Sounds like that plate is factory then. The 201 was their top of the line boat then so it had a lot of features the lesser boats didn't have. As one other post stated, I doubt you will get very much out of the holes. That foam is pretty tough and hard to did out. I would think yours would have the closed cell, being a late 90's model. I don't think they went to composite that early though. I thought it was more in the early 2000's and they put a small composite label at the rear on each side, but like I said, the only 201's I've messed with were a couple I did for friends so they could run close to 80mph and the bulk of that work was at the back of the boat. So, I might be totally wet on anything I've mentioned about yours. I would try to see how big of an area has wet foam and if it's just surface water or if it's totally saturated. If saturated, I would be cutting me a large enough section of the plywood out to gain access to remove. Just remember, that plywood is sitting on top of a couple of stringers. so you dang sure don't want to be cutting any deeper than the thickness of the plywood if that comes to be. Where that's located, it would be easy enough to patch back in and glass over it without having to get into any of the visible stuff. However, hopefully it is closed cell foam and is not wet more than a 1/2 inch or so.

Yes, they have been out of production for several years but WRMG still offered parts and service information on them for a long time after they stopped production and according to their web site, they still do, Now, it's been at least five years since I've contacted them, so that may be bogus info now. C&O Marine did almost all their warranty work and they used to buy up excess and old inventory from most manufactures, so they used to be the best source for parts and info. Again, been out of this stuff for a while now so that may have changed also.

I doubt you want to hear my thoughts on this but I will say what I think. I don't think the plate across the top of the transom is OEM. I have a feeling if you took it off, it will just be covering where someone cut out the top of the transom to get access to do some sort of repair, Hopefully a good repair, but with those bolts pulled in like that, I'm not too sure. I think there's a good chance someone had tried to dig out what they could and pour some of that repair compound in. I don't know when Stratos went to closed cell foam, but closed cell is only supposed the get saturated near the surface, and if left open, it may dry. If it's open cell, forget it, it would take forever to dry if It dried at all. I pulled almost 300 pounds out of the Stratos 285 Pro, and went back with closed cell. On that boat, the floor drain dumped right on top of the foam. They put a black sealer on top but it cracked all over the place. When I went back in with the floor, I put a PVC drain pipe in all the way to the bilge sump to prevent that crap. Wet foam is not good, it adds a lot of weight, and rots any wood that's touching it. That Great Stuff spray foam won't work. Large amounts of it can't get enough air to dry, makes a mess and have very poor expansion. I would strongly recommend using the two part floatation foam. Looking at your picks again, I'm not too sure that's not an aftermarket repair. They normally put the foam in before the caps goes on and don't need to drill access holes. I've never worked on a 201, but the 185 and 195 Pro's I've done didn't have the access holes in any place. The foam went in before the cap went on.

If you had water in the sump and the XDucer weighted down, you don't need make clay cup. As I said in my first post, a number of things can cause your problem. It could simply be sitting at the wrong angle.

When you were doing your testing, did you have the transducer in a pool of water? If not, it's not going to read properly. The face of it has to be on a flat surface with no air or air bubbles under it. Water is about the best thing to accomplish that with. That's why when you epoxy it down, you put a whole lot more than needed and push down firmly to minimize the thickness of the layer under it and to push out any air bubbles that might be in it. Like I said also, a bad layup in the fiberglass under it will cause your problem.

Too many variables involved to say if it will or will not work. A lot of LCD units won't work that fast regardless of where the Xducer, especially if it's on of the older units, they just can't process the signal fast enough, If it happens to have a flasher mode, sometimes that helps. If the angle of the Xducer is a little off, it won't work that fast. If the fiberglass happens to be super think or have micro air bubbles in the layup, it won't work that fast. Also, small chips or rough a rough surface in the hull in front of or under where it's being mounted can cause turbulence that interferes with the signal. If you happen to have a transom mounted Xducer, I would properly mount it to see if it works, and make sure shooting through the hull is the only problem. If you take some clay or something and make you a water proof pocket that you put water in, then sit the transducer in that with something to hold it down, you can move it around to see if there happens to be a better spot in the hull to shoot through. The water actually works better than epoxy, so sometimes you can get it working like that, then epoxy it in and it not work as well. It working at 35mph, I made the assumption you were trying to mount it in the drain sump, but if not, since that's about the only spot it's not double hull, as WRB stated, start there.

Sounds like one of those boats I will usually only pay a few hundred dollars for. Let's face it, to most it only has scrap metal value. to pay to have it brought back to a usable condition, the cost would be way more than it's value when done. From your description $300-$500 would be my max.

Gunsinger, your wife probably just made whoever she turned that money into very happy. I'm fairly sure they probably were not so honest. When we find something of value, we let it be known we found it, if money, we just say some money, if a ring or something, we just say a piece of jewelry, and just leave our contact information. If some gets in touch with us and can accurately describe it, we give it back to them. My wife found a very nice diamond ring in a dressing room at Dillard's and told a girl in the office and gave her contact info. The next day, that girl in the office tried to claim the ring, but could not properly describe it. I called Dillard's to see if anyone had come in looking for a lost ring. An elderly lady had and gave a partial description of it, and the girl was trying to use that to claim the ring. I informed the manager, he put the real owner in touch with me and that girl got fired. Oh, and the owner gave my wife a $1,000 reward. It turned out to be a family heirloom from her grandmother worth thousands. She had just passed it on to her granddaughter that day, who was wearing it.

If you are running it on a boat rated for a 15hp or one that is not extra large, I would stick with the 10". If used for something like a pusher motor on a large sail boat or something way larger than a 15 would normally be used on, I would go with the 8. I've seen people put 15's on a 15/16 foot bass boat used on hp restricted lakes, something like that, you would want the 8.

Should be a 15hp, 1985 model. OEM only show 8" and 10" aluminum and 9" Stainless.

Well, that shot down my main theory. My other ideas would almost require me having it in front of me. You can take the cover off and the air silencer off and see if it gets noticeably louder, but if it does, there's still not much you can do about it without knowing a lot about them.

That looks like a fairly new outfit, call the manufacture and see what their recommend tongue height is. level is not necessarily the right setting, a lot of times they want a little drop in them. Ranger boats used to align the axles on their trailers and draw height was critical on those to have them in proper alignment. I'm sure most brands don't do that and don't know if Ranger does now, but it's still needs to be where the manufacture set it up to tow right. As mentioned, tongue weight and draw height are two different animals. Not enough tongue weight will make one eat tires because the trailer is wanting to sway back and forth, especially when stopping or going down hill.

One would have to assume, it's either the wrong LU and jamming into the crank or the LU is bad. The only other thing I know of is a bad lower main bearing on the crank. That's a roller bearing and controls the end play on the crank. That can be checked by prying up and pushing down on the flywheel. There should be absolutely no up and down movement of the crank/flywheel.

Like I said, it's not the stator, some models do have one coil on the stator that's used for cold start advance but I've never know of that causing one to loose ignition. The time base is a separate animal from the stator. A little word of warning, most so called outboard mechanics don't know how or have to equipment to trouble ignition problems. There is also the issue of it can be very time consuming and at $100 or so per hour it's easier for them to just replace it. Plus, sometimes about the only way to be sure it's a certain part is to put another one on. The problem there is, if that wasn't the problem you bought it anyway. That turns into one of the parts that caused the part they finally replaced that fixed it to go bad. You can easily make you a digital voltage adapter (DVA) module for a couple of bucks to measure peak voltage. It's nothing but one diode, a capacitor and small resistor. The diode rectifies it, the capacitor stores it and the resistor prevents rapid bleed off from the capacitor. Take an old set of test leads cut them into for one end to plug into the meter and solder to the parts and the other end to measuring and it's soldered to the parts. If you shop around, you can also buy them. By the way, I have had several bad timer bases, it's not an uncommon part to fail, but they can get kind of proud of them. Also, don't buy used parts, too many AH's will stick bad ones on ebay after they replace them. The only time I will use used ignition parts is if I take them off a known good running motor myself, and I know for a fact that motor ran good.

Not sure what model or year you are working and if it has points or timer base. Assuming it's late enough to have a timer base, you really need a Peak Voltmeter or something that converts RMS voltage to Peak to check it, Also, not likely anything to do with stator, it does not control the spark You should see a linkage go from the throttle arm to back underneath the flywheel that moves when you move the throttle linkage. This linkage is connected to the timer base under the flywheel, this is what generates the initial spark and controls timing. There are pickup coils molded into a doughnut ring around the crankshaft. The flywheel has a magnetic ring on the inside, around the crankshaft hole. As the flywheel spins, these magnets make the pickup coils produce a voltage signal that goes to the power pack. The power pack amplifies that voltage and sends it to the coil. The coil then amplifies it enough to fire the spark plugs. You will need a manual on the ignition system to trouble shoot. There is a procedure the check the timer base with an ohm meter but sometimes that's not accurate and the more reliable way is with a Peak reading meter. Not a meter that stores it's peak voltage, that's not the same animal. That just means it stores the highest RMS voltage it saw. Shotgun trouble shooting, just throwing parts at it, can get very expensive on outboard motors.

The only issue I've had is not seeing one laying on the bank until almost beside them. If they get spooking and come charging into the water, you better hang on because they will dang near swamp a small boat. Now, 15 years back,, a customer of mine was fishing in a small channel off the main river with his 10 year old grandson. About an 8' gator came over the side of the boat and grabbed his grandson by upper arm and shoulder and tried to pull him out of the boat. After a serious struggle, he finally got his grandson free but had to rush him to the emergency room where it had done some serious damage to his arm. The next day, he went back to that spot with some game wardens. The gator was still hanging around in that channel and the wardens killed it. That's the only incident I've heard of around here where one caused a problem. By the way Throttleplate, ketchup doesn't even look like blood.

If you can find a friend that has as prop that you can try, I would do that. It just sounds too much like the prop is cavitating or the hub is slipping. Most any of the 25 30 and maybe even a 40 with the same pitch should work. I got the thinking, (that's scary) for what it's going to cost you to take it to a mechanic, I would sacrifice the cost of a new, cheap aluminum prop the size of yours. If the shop tells you it's the prop, it's going to cost you double for what just sticking on on will cost. The are going to charge full list for an OEM prop and the about the cost of the prop in labor. Plus, it always pays to have a spare prop anyway if the new prop does not fix the problem. It sure sounds like the motor is spinning up without enough load on it to me, which is what a spun hub will do. One other thought, you haven't by any chance done anything to move or change the trim stop pin and have it trimmed out too much have you?

I'll have to ponder over that one. My first thought is the prop hub slipping but it almost sounds like it's something with the air silencer. Have you had the cover off and listened to it? Might want to pull the air silencer off and see if it's coming from the carbs and see if one of the carbs has more blowback than normal. Back when I ran Boysen reeds, I had on of those break a small chip of the end, letting it blow back into the carb. That's one of those you almost have to be there in person to diagnose exactly where it's coming from.