Way2slow

My center seat is removable and still brand new. It normally sits on a shelf in the garage so no way its going to get stepped on. The lid on the drink cooler between the seats is the step. The biggest problem I have with passengers is my boat is a dual console and they are always wanting to grab the windshield the get out of the seat, even though I have handles on the side of the consoles just for that purpose.

Armor-All is one of those I was referring that I would not put on vinyl. I use 303 on my wife's VW Convertible canvas top but you can find dozens of post on people having their vinyl seats tearing up in less than five years that used 303 on them. As for my seats, I think 20 years for a boat that lived it's first five years outside in Phoenix AZ, and the next 14 under a canvas cover in GA, never has seen a shelter, my seat have done extremely well. Other than one small section, the seams are not coming apart and there are no rips or tears in the vinyl. If it wasn't for the fact it only coast me about $40 for one piece of vinyl I had to buy and I can do the work myself, they are not bad enough I would pay someone to recover them. That's one of the nice parts about being able to do just about any and everything yourself (actually I've never had anyone fix something of mine that was not under warranty). You can do stuff because you want to and not have to wait until you have to, and then pay through the nose for someone to do it.

Actually, I've never used any kind of protectant on vinyl. A high quality, marine grade vinyl and polyester thread should not need any, plus I think chemicals in a lot of those actually cause the vinyl to dry out and crack worse. I do keep a good quality cover on it when not in use but the tops of the seats have gotten a large brown area and is getting very hard and dry. Having bought, sold and traded probably over 100 boats in the past 60 years and also doing a little trading in vehicles and restoring several old classic cars, I found it smarter to buy and commercial, walking foot sewing machine and learn to do my own upholstery many years ago, rather than pay someone to do it. For a number of years I was using an old metal gear Singer, home machine. Then I bought a Consew 226 back about 1980 and I bought (stole) a like new, Consew 255RB-1 at auction about 10 years ago for almost nothing and have just kept them both. Over the years, I've actually gotten pretty good at upholstery, since I only have to satisfy myself, and sometimes the wife with a piece of furniture, makes things a lot easier. I'll post some pictures when done. I'm still on the fence with the idea of making them look a little better or just go back like they were. I was just checking and I don't have enough sewfoam to do both seats if I change them, which means I would have to order more and wait another week, and the wife is wanting the sewing machine and all my junk out of the din where I'm working on them.

OK, I'm redoing the seats in my Javelin R20. The ones in it a fairly plain Jane but have lasted 20 years and actually still look presentable, just showing their age and sun damage. I'm considering dressing them up a little, maybe pleating the cushions and backs and a few other fancy details. My problem is, I know for every seam I add, I add an additional place to cause early seam failures. The other problem is I don't store under a shelter, just a canvas cover. For those that have or have had boats with pleated seats or seats with a lot of extra stitching etc, how did they hold up over time. It's not like it's a lot of money (about $50) and a days time, but even at that, I don't really care to do all this work and it look like crap in a couple of years. Six to ten years I can live with, but I've seen some mighty bad looking seats in boats that were less than five years old. Which I know a lot has to do with the quality of materials used, and I'm using high grade vinyl and thread.

Yea, keep on messing with it and you will have a whole different set of problems by the time you get to put it in the water next spring.

I have a hard time believing any state is going to let you do much of anything you are wanting to do with a handgun until you turn 21. They look at handguns a little different than long guns but as advised by others. Have a good heart to heart with a state law official before you even consider having a handgun in your possession without an of age adult with you, life could get real ugly for you.

I know it all water over the dam since you have what you have, but hogs are a log tougher than deer. Most of the hog hunters I know wouldn't think of using anything smaller than 30 cal. The AR's in a 300 Blackout and AR-10's are popular around these parts for hogs. A lot of the old farts (like me) still use their 30-30's and 35 lever actions. Then you have those short barrel shooters with their 44mags etc, but your not going to see many of them packing a pea shooter. Also, night hunting them is the preferred method here, so most of the guys use the illuminated reticle. I will go out on a limb here and say that hogs have gotten to be such a nuisance animal, I wouldn't fault a guy for trying to use a pellet gun if that's all he had, as long as he feet weren't on the ground when he tried, they can get mean when you **ss them off. Hogs and yotes are two animals I will "try" a ridiculous shot on, just to see if I can hit it. I have killed coyotes at over 600 yards across a very windy open area, just to see if I could hit it. (By the way, that's using fully custom built rifles like my 260, not a 223). Trying shots I would never try on a game animal. However I mostly target practice at 400 to 600 yards so they are not totally hail Mary shots.

Personally, I would go with a 1x4. That's more than enough scope for anything within a couple hundred yards. Not sure how much hunting you do in thicker stands of trees or areas with a lot of under growth but if you do, you will find it very hard to find your target at close range, even with it turned back to 3X. I mostly use a Model 7, 260 for close range deer hunting and have a 1x4x24 on it and while I don't use my AR for hunting I also have a Nikon 1x4x20 on it. If I'm going to be hunting I open areas, I have a custom Remington 260 with 3x15, that's easily good for 500 yards. I don't consider a 223 an ethical caliber for most people to be trying to kill deer beyond 200 yards anyway. Now, by no means am I saying it won't easily kill a deer beyond that with a well place bullet. It's just most I've run into can't make a well placed shot. If you live in a state they will ship to, here's a great deal on the scope I would use https://www.natchezss.com/refurbished-nikon-m-223-rifle-scope-1-4x20mm-bdc-600-reticle.html

Remove the drain plug and let a little drain out to verify. If that's milky then yes it's coming out of the LU. Sometimes you can get a drainage out of the exhaust that can make it look like the LU is leaking. If the small amount you let drain is black, there is no water getting into the LU.

About the only other thing you could try would be to disconnect the shift cable at the motor and then try manually moving the shift linkage on the motor (where the cable was connected) back and fourth between forward and reverse and see if it shifts to forward then. Have the motor running on a hose or in a tank when doing this, the drive shaft needs to be turning when shifting to make sure it's not binding on the gears in the LU. If it will shift to forward there, then you probably need to adjust the cable to the controller (that's done at the point where you disconnected it), or check the control box. If you can't manually shift it into forward, then it's time to start feeling kinda sick.

I would take the cover off the motor, and disconnect the end of the shift cable that connects to the motor, then verify the shift handle of the control box moves back and fourth freely, and do a visual inspection on the motor. If it does, then get ready to write a big check if the motor is not still under warranty, because anything on the motor end of the cable is not something you are probably going to be able to fix and will require a knowledgeable mechanic because the problem is most like in the lower unit. There are a couple of solid rods and mechanical connections that go to the lower unit from where you disconnect the shift cable at the motor, there is no cable.

Even in the perfect world, there is always going to be a certain percent of failures, it can't be avoided. Xducer or unit may have failed. For four years back in the late 70's - Early 80's, I did warranty repairs for most Japanese Stereo brands sold to the Armed Forces in northern Italy and they were happy to keep their failure rates below 10%

Owned 1 Jeep, 65 CJ-5 with v-6, rode rougher than a two horse wagon and would beat your guts out. Didn't take long to get rid of it and get a Bronco. Since then, I've had a 66 and 73 Bronco, 86 and 93 Toyota 4WD pickup (still have the 93), 98 4WD Chevy pickup, 2001 Chevy 2500HD 4WD pickup (still have the 2500HD mostly just to tow 20' bass boat)

You've had more criminal activity around your house than the whole town I live in. If you want to call it a town, they call it one on the map, but the main intersection is one 4 way stop with a blinker light over it. If it wasn't for speeders and drugs they find on I-16, the county cops wouldn't have much to do.

I don't have first hand experience with the Marines, just my perception, and actually have never been closely associated with anyone that was in the Marines. I looked at all branches of service when I joined and decided the Air Force was the only one for me, spent 22yrs and 4mos in an electronics communications career field. I was 27 years old, married and had two kids when I decided to join so I had to consider what was best for the "family" as much as anything. At the time, the Navy had some of the best electronics carrier fields but most of the Navy lived on the ocean as much as six months at the time, that would have tough on the family. The Marines were you primary first responders to any conflict and could be gone for very extended periods of time at a moments notice. Again, not something very conducive to maintaining a happy marriage. The Army had way too many unaccompanied short tour assignments during a full career period where you are gone 12 months or more at a time without the family. Never looked at or considered the Coast Guard. For me and my family, the Air Force offered a carrier that was more suitable to a family life. I had worked from the time I was 13 until I was 27 in the civilian world and was the Maintenance Superintendent of a large particle board plant when I gave it all up and joined. Also, in the Air Force, up to the pay grade of E7, promotions were almost based solely on you, no such thing as promotion boards to go before. You had two test you took each year, one on military knowledge and one on you carrier field knowledge, those scores were a major part of the points required to make the cutoff score needed to get promoted. Because of these written test and I had a photographic memory, I scored extremely high on those test and made rank extremely fast in the minimum time for each grade. 22 years of the Air Force was about as close to working in civilian life as it could come. After basic training and tech school, my first assignment was in northern Italy. I spent five years there and other that the usual military BS you had to go through, it was like a normal 0730 - 4:30 job. I had a part time electronics job, making piles of money and enjoyed traveling Europe. Never spent more than a week away from the family. From there I spent several years in special duty assignment in a nuclear missile program (GLCM), playing a lot of GI Joe with the Special Forces and even went through the Army Ranger school. 22 years and only had one short tour and because of my rank, it was 13 month accompanied one in Cicily, so the family was with me, a great Government funded vacation. I should also say, I retired in 1996, so it's I'm sure there have been many changes to the way things were when I was in. Also, don't put a ton of faith in what a recruiter tells you. I'm not going to say they will lie to you, but they sure can distort the truth. Do what you are doing now, get on the internet and social media sites and see what those living the life have to say.

Trust me, mine never forgets. 49 years of marriage and she can describe in great detail every thing I ever did that did not please her. I will be hounded every time I haul anything of hers from now to eternity. The blame thing was wrapped completely in a large blanket and the feet of it was sitting on the ends with a 5/16 rope going over it. but the thing still manage to slip out.

My wife bought a new, Lazy Boy Leather recliner a couple of weeks ago while visiting her sister and helping her get things in order after here husband recently passed. Saturday, we drove the 100 miles to her sisters house to get it. Wrapped it in a blanket and tied it with the back rest laying in the cushion. When I turned on the road to the house about eight miles out, the chair must have shifted and let the rope get slack. About four miles from the house, I see in the mirror, the backrest her new $1,000 leather recliner flipping down the road. Needless to say, things are not good at the homestead right now. 22 years of moving all over the country and back and fourth to Europe with the military, I have never had one thing I've packed and moved damaged, but that track records means nothing now. Luckily, it only damaged the back corners so none of the visible leather was damaged. I can do upholstery and have a couple commercial, walking foot machines I use for restoring automobiles so repairing it is not a problem (for me but that doesn't matter to her). It also knocked the framing out of square and loosened some joints, but I'm a pretty good cabinet maker also, made all her kitchen cabinets that she loves, so fixing that is not a problem either, again, not to her though. All she see's is her new chair *****up!

With the heading, I had to check and make sure you wasn't talking about me. Getting something like that would be a very dump idea, unless you are just wanting to create problems for yourself.

The only time Cranking Amps mean anything, is when cranking the motor. That's just how much current the battery can deliver in one big surge. The Reserve Minutes is the number you need to look at when the battery has a constant draw on it. That's how long the battery will deliver a 25 amp draw (that's the standard use by most manufactures but some do differ) before it's totally run down (approx. 11.8 volts). Which won't run anything.

I would not use high pressure air to blow back into the powerhead. You have to remember that system is designed to operate between 20-30psi. You start blowing high pressure air in there, the thermostat is closed and there are some fairly small passages that could restrict the air enough to greatly raise the pressure inside the block and damage/blow gaskets. I don't know about your neck of the woods, but I've found a dirt dobber loves ready made holes and will plug one in a heartbeat with a nest, and it usually takes something hard to break it up and get it out.

Since you have already purchased a cranking battery, it's probably a little late to consider the dual purpose. The reason for a dual purpose is cranking batteries don't like to be discharged. In most cases, running the electronics and pumps all day will run the cranking battery down 20-30% or even more. Unless you are making long runs and have a high output charging system, the motor will not keep the battery fully charged. Also, on the MK-330D, I bought that same charger three years ago and I would not recommend leaving it on 24/7, the maintenance voltage on mine is too high and I've had to replace batteries each spring since getting it. I called MK about the person I talked to didn't recommend leaving it on, even though it says you can. I know that sucks because that's what you buy a charger with a maintainer phase, but my experience with the MK-330D has not been a very good one. I unplug mine now and plug it in about every six weeks. They say they have a float voltage of 13.4VDC, mine is 13.6VDC, which in both cases is not good because on most flooded cell deep cycle batteries, the ideal float voltage is 13.17VDC. Now, AGM's are closer to 13.4VDC.

Old saying, buy cheap, get cheap. First, you have to realize it's not a cheap easy fix The first step in the repair is to get all the old adhesive off by scraping and using acetone or something to clean the surface of all foreign material. If you buy a self adhesive stripping, buy a quality type with a high quality adhesive backer like a 3M If you are trying to reapply old weather stripping, the adhesive side has to be cleaned with acetone as well and none of the old adhesive can be on it. There are two ways you can attach it, either buy a couple of tubes of a high grade weather stripping adhesive like 3M, made for the type of material you are trying to attach or you can buy high quality, double sided tape like used to attach trim pieces and weather stripping on automobiles. However, if you have a lot to do, you will find the double sided tape adhesive will get rather expensive, but a tube of high quality adhesive is not cheap, just be sure it for the same type material you are using. Once you stick it on, you need to be able to keep some pressure on it for a few hours to make sure it doesn't separate. Closing the lids should work if you have the proper size stripping.

Just like in a car's cooling system, they need to maintain a high pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant to keep it from turning to steam. That's why it's important to keep a good, water pump in one, like changing it every three years. A bad water pump can still pump water, it just won't have the pressure necessary to keep the motor from developing hot spots. The typical two stroke usually needs to maintain at least 15psi of water pressure. Without that, hot spots can make the water boil and turn to steam. The steam can then push all the water out of the motor, causing a good old meltdown. Another note, if a motor sits long periods of time without being run, it's more important to keep the pump changed. The rubber impeller hardens and develops a memory, so when the blades that a squeezed down won't flex out for a good seal against the housing.

First, quit trying to run that much seafoam. Two ounces per gallon is about the max. That's probably the reason it's smoking so much Second, the motor not being in water at it's normal depth changes the back pressure and screws up the idle mixture. If mine, the first thing I would do is a thorough and proper cleaning of the carb because it sounds like the mixture is way off. Also, if you don't know when it was changed, put a new water pump in it. That's the first thing you should do on any motor, unless you know for a fact it was recently changed.

I have a 99 Renegade 20, but don't know anything about the 18. With a 150, that doesn't sound like a bad price (actually sounds pretty darn good with all the other extras), if it checks out good. Seats and carpet look like they are in great shape and not a bad set of electronics if they all come with it. Has he agreed to the $5,200 or are you thinking you can buy it for $5,200.