harshman

I got MUNKIN's baits today and was simply amazed. I recieved 2 of his spinner baits and they are awesome. Along with two great looking jigs and a bullet head hook. He even sent me an unpainted spinner bait body to make one for myself. Thanks Allan Harshman

Not sure if I mentioned I am using a coffee filter for the bottom of the cup to allow the air to flow into the cup. I thought you guys figured it out when you saw the pictures, but I wanted to clarify. lPA1Nl The principal behind the fluid bed is to suspend the powder paint in a cloud of air then dip your pre heated bait into the paint allowing for more even contact with the bait from the paint. Using less paint and a better over all finish. Most of the time if you dip the bait in the cup provided with the powder paint you can get globs of paint on parts of the bait. This eliminates that possibility by keeping the paint moving around the bait. Harshman

Used the fluid bed alot tonight to do a batch of ball head crappie jigs for my wife and the fluid bed worked perfectly. Nice even layer of paint, no drips,no paint in the hook eye. Thank you guys for all of the tips. I felt alot more confortable using it tonight after reading your suggestions. The only thing I would add is some way to make the cup vibrate. I am stiring the cup after every dip to keep the powder extra fluffy. I think a little vibration would solve the problem. Harshman

Personally I keep my plastics in their container or a zip-loc bag to keep them fresh then stuff them into a tackle bag. going to try to get my pics on here tonight. Harshman

Weight placement and amount are really a trial and error for the most part. But here are a few starting points from what I have learned on mine. I make "Zara Spook" style baits and here is what I add. I drill a small pilot hole into the bait and insert about a 1/16 or less cylinder shaped piece of lead that I can pour in one of my molds. I usually try to hide the lead under one of my hook holders or very close to one. I place mine near the front half of the bait to allow the tail to "wag" more in the water but placement for you depends on the action you want. I also add it to the bottom to make it land upright in the water every time I throw it. And the amount of lead you use depends on where you want the bait in the water column. Hope this helps Harshman

Here are the pics I promised and the compressor I use Harshman

I followed a plan to build my fluid bed that I got off of http://www.rockbottomlures.com/Tournaments.html, well sort of .Honestly their plans gave me a direction and in reality I spent time just wandering the plumbing section at Home Depot trying things out that I though would work for me. I'll try to get pics up tonight. The only variation I tried was to use a cap on the bottom to seal the lower end of the coupler then used wood screws to attach it to a piece of 1x4 that I had laying around. Other wise it is about the same Harshman

Thanks guys Harshman

I think I had about $25 wrapped up in the build not icluding small parts to make it work with my air compressor or that I already have a small air compressor to start with. I have ran a few jigs in trail and they turned out better than dipping I just want to know if I'm using it correctly. Harshman

GMAN, mine basically followed an example from TU. I spent about a hour one day wandering the plumbing section at Home Depot finding parts to build the bed. I will post pics soon if you want to seee what it looks like. I guess I'm gonna have to learn how to use it the hard way, good ole trial and error. Harshman

Great looking rod. Harshman

any reputable lure making site like www.jannsnetcraft.com www.staminainc.com www.barlowsbaitandtackle.com will carry powder paint. Check out ebay to. Prices are generally close but sometines Pro-Tec paints are a little higher. Harshman

Check out Do-Itmolds.com before you buy they have a weedless ball jig that uses 1/8, 3/16 ,and 1/4 sizes with a 3/o hook, should work with a 2/o as well. It seems like more of what you are looking for. If not the mold you are getting should be able to be modified to accept a 2/0 hook. Harshman

Unpluging your lights doesn't work on some trailers withbrakes. I went out with a buddy and his skeeter when out of habit I unplugged the lights and then couldn't figure out why the trailer wouldn't budge when he got in the truck to launch me. It only took about 5 min. for us to realize the trailer had "emergency " brakes so that if the connection with the plug failed then the brakes would lock. I'm told most newer trailers work on the same principal . Just something to look out for. Harshman

I'm picking up my new pot at Bass Pro Shop this weekend. The brand I reccommend is Lee Percision and the only reason I'm getting it from BPS is it is the same price and most custom lure making sites sell it for but I won't have to pay shipping. i'm getting the Lee Pro 20 to make my jigs. I had a Lee Production Pot but after years of use it finally shot craps. Harshman

Unpluging your lights only works on trailers without brakes. I went out with a buddy and his skeeter when out of habit I unplugged the lights and then couldn't figure out why the trailer wouldn't budge when he got in the truck to launch me. It only took about 5 min. for us to realize the trailer had "emergency " brakes so that if the connection with the plug failed then the brakes would lock. I'm told most newer trailers work on the same principal . Just something to look out for. Harshman

I would be interested in additional rounds. Harshman

I have just finished building my own home made fluid bed but I am unsure how to properly use it. 1. How much powder do you use per application? :-? 2. How much air flow is correct? :-? 3. When adjusting the airflow what is the ideal "powder cloud" i should be looking for before dipping the jig? :-? I am always experementing with making my baits and that is what led me to a fluid bed, but I just don't know how to use on correctly to get the best results. Thanks in advance. Harshman

There are also a few good Eagle units out there. I have a Eagle 242 that is portable and works great for the conditions you described and I even use while ice fishing. Harshman

Catt You might be suprised on how many times I have seen guys mess up their bunks and flooring on a boat by using non treated staples to hold everything in place. Harshman

Make sure if using treated (Wolmanized) lumber of any kind that you use approved galvanized hardware to attach the carpet and bunks to trailer. Newer process in treating lumber, even wolmanized, with high amounts of copper over time ( in some cases a very short amount of time)will corrode any steel hardware. This even applies when building any project not just bunks, decks, houses, finishing a basement, etc. Either way using treated lumber properly or treating any white wood thourghly should give you years of headache free use. Harshman

I've re-used hooks as well in the same manner you described by dipping the messed up pour in the lead pot, then I use a rag to wipe off any excess and while still hot I use a tooth pick to clean out the eye if there is any build up. I'm not sure if reheatin gthe hook messes up it's strength but it shouldn't be any harder on it than getting it hot during the pour. Harshman

Welcome

the discount you get is based on how expensive of a reel you purchase, or it was at least that way in the past. You only get to trade one reel for one reel, you can't trade in 5 junks and get a higher discount, doesn't work that way. Harshman

Best place to try would be a boat dealer that carries your brands. Or EBAY has tons of decals for motors Harshman