IndianaFinesse

Academy has got some sales going on the shimano caius, casitas, caenan, daiwa's tatula ct and ct-type r, plus a couple of lews and some other reels to. Most are add to cart for price.

That about covers it, but at least it made it an entertaining game to watch. I feel bad for the reffs though, (although they did do a pretty bad job, but still) I'm a soccer referee and we hate making game changing calls. And having to make calls that directly decide the winner and loser of the game that many times is torture.

Got on a good trap bite today, caught 28 bass throwing a 1/2 ounce rattle trap at wind blown points. Straight and fast retrieve, not quite what I'd call "burning" but close. Still to much snot grass to use shallow cranks, so traps are filling in for now. No monsters but it was fun catching some good numbers, plus I caught 2 small wipers. They are just starting to get larger than the white bass (wipers were stocked in low numbers 3 or 4 years ago), each fish measuring about 15 inches.

I was actually planning on going there last Saturday, until the brake lines on the suburban started squirting braking fluid and we lost almost all brakes (the emergency brake has also been broken for a few years). This was the day after we finally got the boat's motor fixed again.. Hazards of old stuff. Fishing is definitely getting better around here, lots of cranking (both shallow and deep) and some topwater going. Another month or so and the jerkbait bite should start

Sounds like you were the one more qualified to be the boater. Bummer on the stubborn boater not getting you on some fish, did he ever hear of fishing in the moment? BTW, I also stink at drop shotting. I like and have some degree of skill with other finesse techniques, but not that one.

I want to know if he used that robo worm again, and if he did, did the post digestion worm work better than the non-digested variety?

I used to only fish out of a canoe, and there was one time in January that the ice actually came off of a small section of the lake, it was only about half of an acre but it was there. So I hauled the canoe to the boat ramp, and launched it into the ice (last year, a guy actually pulled off of the adjacent road to watch us onload an aluminum boat off of the trailer into the ice, he was laughing so hard at us like it was the funniest thing he'd ever seen) As in, I used a big wooden oar to beat through the ice so I could get the canoe in the 34° ice water. It was only about 1 inch thick, but it was thick enough to keep me from paddling through it. So I beat my way through about 3/8 of a mile through the ice to reach that little bit of open water, it took an hour and a half but it was worth it. Turns out there wasn't any fish in the open water section, so I simply smashed the ice out from over top a good structure situation, where I had been catching fish prior to ice-up. After giving the fish half an hour to recover from being spooked from the racket caused by beating through ice with a paddle, I actually managed to catch almost a dozen bass and some white bass vertically jigging blade baits. Every year I still make about a dozen trips that involve breaking through ice with either a 14' aluminum boat or the canoe, and i've never been skunked yet doing so. Rain, shine, snow, freezing rain (that's the worst) 0° or 100°, and it's still always worth going fishing.

If the 7' medium zodias is about the same stiffness as a medium powered Abu Garcia spinning vengeance (ie, a good bit heavier than rated) and can set the hook on finesse jigs and little pocket frogs, that's definitely the one I'll get.

Thanks everyone for all of the replies, super helpful especially since I can't find much info on the spinning models of the zodias. Does the medium have the backbone for frog hooksets on Jr. Pad crashers? How would the stiffness compare to 6'6" medium Abu vengeance, 7' medium st. Croix triumph, or 7'mh Abu vigilante?

The question is, do you really want him to leave you alone? Do you have any of the spinning rods? Does it have the backbone for setting the hook on 1/4 ounce frogs? The upper end of the lure weight range doesn't really matter to me, I'll be fishing stuff on the light side of it anyways, so it's just hooks sets I'm worried about on the medium and being able to cast light stuff with the medium heavy.

All right, I was offered a really good deal on either a 7' medium or 7' medium heavy powered shimano zodias spinning rod. I wasn't planning on getting another rod, but I've already got an extra spinning reel and I just can't pass this deal up. I'm looking for an all purpose spinning rod to compliment a 6'10" ml villain (fishes between a ml and a medium) and a 6'6" medium (fishes like a ml) mod/fast vortex. I use the villain for 1/16-3/16 ounce shaky heads, neko rigs, weightless trick worms, etc and the vortex is pretty much a dedicated ned rig rod. The zodias will throw a lot of different baits (serving largely as a skipping rod, as i prefer spinning gear for skipping way under docks) everything between 3/16 ounce shaky heads, 3/16-5/16 ounce jigs, keitech 2.8 and 3.3, lite topwater, 1/4 ounce finesse frogs, just a little bit of everything. The suggested lure ranges are pretty similar, 3/16-1/2 and 3/16-5/8. The lures I will mostly be using hug the lower end of those ranges, but I want to have the ability to set the hook on lighter jigs and small frogs to. For those of you that own a zodias or three, which power would you recommend?

I don't know where that body fat you're talking about is.

Check out the 4" finesse wormz, (I might suggest cutting a half inch or an inch off of it) it sounds like just why you are looking for. Crazy durable to, even more so than the zinkerz and TRD. I like it as much as the 2.5" zinkerz.

Assuming you have a right handed reel, the knob on the right by the reel handle is the spool tension knob, it has the biggest control over the initial excelleration of the lure. The control on the left is the magnetic controls, it adjusts the magnetic force exerted on the spool, ie mostly the deceleration (the end of your cast) of the lure. Set the spool tension knob so that the lure slowly drops to the floor, and start with the magnetics up on 10 (or whatever is highest) and back it off a little after each cast until you find the setting that helps achieve the distance and accuracy you want-with little or no backlashng.

If the 1/8 ounce is running at the depth of the fish upsizing it to a 3/8 ounce won't increase the size! Bass don't care weather there's shad in your lake or not tho, they couldn't care (or know) less. Big trout swiimbaits work where not trout exist.

I agree with the different slang names making it hard to communicate, but the bit about "yellow perch not being considered a game fish", apparently you have never been up to the nothern states such as Michigan, Minnesota etc. Perch are in the top three most targeted species, along with walleye and smallmouth. Through the ice they are the most targeted species up there.

I would suggest less focus on lures (and none on color), and more on location. Finding catchable, active bass is the hardest and most important part of successful fishing. Read up on seasonal patterns, pick a couple of versatile technique (one topwater, one suspended, and one bottom) and learn them well. A lure is simply a tool used to properly control depth and speed, that is what you should be thinking about when choosing lures.

Definitely the rod, ml is way to light for chuggin spooks. Mh or maybe even heavy would be better. I'm shocked you haven't broken it yet just trying to cast a 1 ounce lure.

Mostly casting (especially light lures), palming, and smoothness.

How would you compare it to the curado 70?

Yep, they're one of my favorite fish easily found around here to eat. I rank them right up there with crappie, when caught in cold water. Much more firm than crappie, and almost as mild.

Don't know if this would count as physics or not, but this thread has some interesting research on line stretch/elongation/wet/dry etc. A good read even if you don't use it in your project https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/171709-annual-line-stretch-test-updated-2016/

Attempted to bass fish in the 30-40+ mile an hour wind today, but after an hour and a half of frustration and only half a dozen fish to show to it, switched over to white bass. Went to where I knew a school of white bass probably were based on the wind and past experiences, and kept the boat in place by tying a rope to a tree next to the shoreline and letting the wind push the boat out. The wind was more powerful than my trolling motor, but it worked out well once the boat was tied off. Ended up catching 41 white bass pretty much every cast for just short of an hour, all on a 1/8 ounce roosterail. They were in 8-18 feet of water, some suspended but the majority on the bottom. Unless the bass bite starts picking back up, I think I might have to stick with the white bass You gotta love a fish that fights like they do and school in that kind of numbers.

Yes... It depends on the day. Try all angles until you find what angle the bass want. If they are hugging tight to bottom, uphill is the way to go. If they are slightly suspending, fishing downhill works best. I'll fish parallel to a breakline if I'm still searching for the fish-holding breaks on a structure, or if the situation dictates it. Oh, and if I'm catching fish from a particular break it works best to slowly move the boat around it in a circle, so that the bass are constantly shown a different angle.

You ever consider getting into taxidermy? With those awesome painting skills you would be really good at it.