JustJames

If you shop around you can find CT type R around 130 and reg CT 100 or lower.

Why big deal? My wife can reel my right hand baitcaster on her left lol ?

I only have that problem when windy. Normally I don't jerk right away after it hit water. I reel a few crank to make lure dive and jerk.

Except it green not red.? To OP how much different between Ct and Ct type R? When I got my type R it was only 20-30 bucks different. I got abit lighter weight spool, abit better bearing, the star drag material also better(I think) but I hate the red accent on top of the reel.

Have you ever open a reel before? If not, I think professional might not be a bad idea. this video shown not daiwa but at least you know what to expect. Daiwa you have to remove brake dial with coin or your finger nail do not use flat head screw driver. Another video I just found, don't know what he said but the one he point finger is main gear, make sure every drag washer back to the gear in order.

@lonnie gthat is very owesome work man. Our old house have an overhead garage storage almost the whole length of 3 car garage and keep the floor clean, where we normally park 2 car and a motorcycle. I also built movable wood bench where I can move between garage and backyard. I missed that storage space it is about 3 feet down from ceiling and from wall all the way to garage door opener. This new house we have one of those white cheap cabinet. It look nice and clean but always in the way and not a lot of storage space so I got two of those wire 4'x8' overhead storage from Costco and installed it for all boxes and such. Now we can only park 1 car, 1 golf cart and my boat with 2 kayaks on top.

I'm using both straight braid and copolymer for my hard jerkbait depend on size of jerkbait. For 3/8 oz and more I opt for braid where I can cast out far and still get good action when jerk but with braid I have to ease on jerking (soft jerk)when lure come closer. This happen to be my top water set up as well for jitterbug Zara spook and whopper plopper 110. This set up is MH/F rod and 50e with 30lb braid. I also use copolymer for 1/4 oz jerk which stretch of copolymer and softer rod tip help reduce draging the lure in straight line. This also set up if I wanna use small plop lure. This set up M/F with alphas 105 on #8 hybrid line (the softest tip I could find because I don't have ML rod). Note to self: I always set my drag quite loose for all moving bait no matter which lure. Check braid more often when jerk in rocky area. unlike @RoLoI don't use braid on my Fluke and plan to switch to straight Fluoro instead. I might try braid when I get my hand on Yamamoto D Shad thou. added: I only have 4 main setup so I don't plan to make my rod work on every lures but instead plan the right lures for the setup I'll bring with.

Thanks I also kayak small lake but fish finder would help me on depth of water. I actually don't really need fish finder since most of the time I will be fish in shallow around cove / brush and tree. The thing is I hardly see fish schooling in shallow except spawning time.

I'm thinking of getting a fishfinder on my kayak. Now I have lowrance elite 4x chirp on my job boat so I'm thinking of lowrance hook 5 gps version. My question is will hook 5 work with cable and transducer from 4x chirp? So I can move just unit between kayak and boat. I believe hook 5 come with lake insider or something but not sure if it includes my lake "Canyon Lake CA" how can I check or I need to buy more map? thanks

Dump some snake head in there and call it done, ?

Americans are weird. Mile instead of kilo-meter, gallon instead of litre, yard and foot instead of meter and pound instead of kilo. What else's? Now let me go find my 3/8 drill bit. Lol

Most of the fish I caught lately from shallow got those kind of skin/scale disease. These fish were from around tree and brushes. Not a pretty fish at all.

It wouldn't be so much fun if all I do is reeling in the fish. The fight only take place less than a minute all the fun is when you feel the fish and set hook. I salute you @Luna2406for all the hard work you do for those people.

Good job, didn't I say so lol

I just got two gutted hook fish on my last two kayak trips. First time I tried this method and end up some how damage the fish gill. Second time I take no chance but cutting the line and let fish go with hook in(my Fluke half was in his tummy already. I use 3/0 owner twisted hook. I hardly get this happen when I bank or boat fish but the kayak keep moving so I can't really feel fish bite. do you this this took really work for gutted hook? I think I have this from long time ago.

I tried that last time and end up the fish breeding pretty bad. It is hard to do it on land and even harder on kayak. Gotta learn how to do that more efficiently. BTW the first time I knew I didn't fill the fish until I saw the line jump about 30 sec but this time I only waited 10 sec for Fluke to sink and start twisting still fish swallowed.

Went out today on kayak caught first two bass on whopper plopper 110 that I pick up two days ago thanks @Bluebasser86for getting me spending money again. Anyway the third fish I caught on Fluke and this is second time fish swallowed the Fluke both time on kayak. I cut the line and let that fish go since half on the Fluke already in his stomach. I hope the fish survive. I have pulled out hook from bass butt before so I believe he has more chance to survive than I trying to get the hook out. Now my question is what should I do to prevent this to happen again? Btw I feel the fish on the line is already too late. I don't wanna kill any more fish nor I don't want to stop using Fluke. Any recommendations?

All is good idea there? My question to you is you know how you like to fish, slow or fast, soft plastic hard plastic, spinnerbait chatterbait etc. How do you know the one you like work best in your area? If you try different thing you might even like it better. Search in our flea market there you might fine something that interest you at deep discount price. I have many way that I don't like to fish, like deep driving crank and lipless but I do have some of those just in case.

How about puddingstone lake? The report I've read is pretty good this year.

Yup can't beat that a good family time, I envy you

Thanks, but I think I know what part I want but still not sure how I can handle it. It part #25 Diaphragm and #24 seal. The part #24 have been leak a little of gas for a long time ever since I got this boat. My friend tried to fix this problem but I guess he didn't get the right part for it. Now my another problem is, if I have mechanic fix this, it gonna cost me 150 - 200 included $25 dollar parts. The whole new carburetor kit will cost me around 200 and I can change that myself easily. Decision decisions ???

I need help with my mercury 15 hp 4 strokes engine. It leaks pretty bad. I thought it was fuel pump or carburetor or clogged jet but turn out it just leak. The engine started fine when I first prime the bulb to get gas to engine. Disconnect the gas supply tube and I see a lot of gas shooting out while engine running so I guess the fuel pump is fine too. here video of the leak, not sure what part or gasket I need to fix this leak.

Try Mr. twisters keeper, even z-man came out with EZ keepers them self. I use mustad power lock plus (not spring one) exclusively for Z-man stuff pre-hole with heated needles insert a keeper with a dap of super glue.

HI there, I'm from CA but way down south of yours.

I'm a sucker of try to make it work type. Some time I spent hours and hours on a lure just because I got one ghost bite. Gotta change that, thanks Glenn