JustJames

I normally use crappie jig as weight. I got different weight from 1/16-1/8oz, this is perfect for most of my Zman Stuff Just recently a friend from local forum show me another trick for easy and cheap Neko Weight. Just center pin screw and split shot. It also work pretty good with none Zman plastic. and if I add this, Man I’m cheap alright lol.

I only own SLX MGL for short period of time, caught a few fish then sold it to fund other reel. I sold not because I don’t like it but I have too many reels in this category (finesse, light weight, light line). It can be good for other stuffs too but line capacity gonna be a little cumbersome. For regular SLX and SLX XT, I see no different, whatever you feel like, by all means get it. I bought reg SLX before SLX XT come out and don’t see the need of upgrading. I use this reel for pretty much everything for heavy line category (12lb copolymer)like, top water, Jig, Texas Rig, chatterbait even weightless senko, you name it. This or SLX XT compare to Fuego, I’ll go with SLX any day of the week, lighter smaller and cast better. The SLX DC, like a lot mentioned, this reel should be good in some type of situations like windy, skipping or night fishing if you care and worry too much about backlash. One thing to remember the more control of spool the less distance you would get. Oh!!!! actually let make it two things, this reel is nothing like other SLXs, Shimano just borrows the name to fit in lower end price category (lower than Curado), The frame is bigger and heavier, including spool compare to other SLX. At the end I only have regular SLX left that I fish along side my Bantam MGL with no shame at all.

This ^^^ but I wanna add some and minus some. It might not apply in OP case since he seems to be even more experienced than me. #1 checked #2 I always stop the line before lure hit water, for quieter entrance and to make sure I don’t have a lot of loose line at the end of cast. I make sure to lift the rod tip up before reeling to get more tension on the line. This will also help improve bite detection if bass decide to hit on the fall. #3 cant do it. #4 checked #5 if I reel the lure back fast, I would let the lure hang 3-4’ to spin out twisted for a few seconds before next cast. Again this might not be the same case as OP but this help me control wind knot at hand.

If you like Lee’s rod why change? Higher price doesn’t always mean better. Higher price rod might be lighter, using better components but more brittle. I look at TP-1 with skeleton reel seat, right? It might take you awhile to get used to with Fuji ECS reel seat which most of the reels now using it. If I were you, I’d buy more of the same or maybe in different length or power. You gonna get a ton of options since each individual preferences are different. I, on the other hand, like Daiwa Tatula original so I bought 2 of the same and a few in different lengths. I tried new Tatula and it doesn’t feel the same.

Curado 70 period.

https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/fishing-wind-knots/ how bad were the knot?

That would be fun fishing frog on a lawn, what did you catch? A cat?

I use Gremlin rubbercore weight. Easy to attach and remove.

Have you ever seen the line on bottom of you reel? You will see a bunch of small coil that hard to get it strengthen out. KVD conditioner would help relax those coils memory. You won’t see much effect on mono since it soft but stiffer line like hybrid or CXX, the difference is huge. Now, what loose coil can help on your reel? Improve casting distance and sensitivity again you will see more benefit when using lighter weight lure. I dont use KVD to all my reels only the one I plan to use in near future, mostly next day or two. I would strip about 20 yds of line out, apply a few spray, reel the line back in and spray again. This to make sure I got the solution to bottom part as well.

No you don’t need it with most of the circumstances. I only use with shallow spool baitcaster (5 of them) and only for braid, to only get as much line need. More line more weight and more room for line to dig in. I don’t plan to cast 40 yds on this type reel (unless I use 1/8oz roadrunner or lipless crank) so 75yds (1/2 filler spool) is perfect. I also use for spinning again 4-5 of them and only for braid which is not really necessarily. I just don’t like the idea of having full 150 yds of braid. It just pain on my rear... when I need to add backing.

I followed Same problem here in Canyon Lake, thanks to Ron (my wife’s friend) who provide POA the Alum treatment. This is the second year I can’t find no weed whatsoever down to 6-8 feet. I have quit fishing a lot of techniques, fluke, weightless worm or chatterbait. Prior to this I would see a lot of bluegill hang out in shallow and plenty of woof pack cruising and hanging along the weed line boiling everywhere. Since last year, I still see tons of bluegill, some wood packs up to 8-10 bass that cruise pass but never stay around.

1/8 rod tip, yes you gonna have a hard time setting thick wire hook (jig hook) plus weed guard into the roof top of fish mouth. 1/4oz swimjig plus trailer should weight close to 3/8oz, you can get even away with MH rod and still get a good distance. I even have problem with just 1/8 stand up jig with such a soft tip rod.

Love the simplicity of this guy and “the block” I think I’ve seen his video before with tiny crankbait. Those who overthinking about how smart bass is or which fancy lure to get them should look at this video. KISS is the best.

If you have a few reels to spool then it might worth it. I have the exact one and use it all the time on some of my reels, mostly spinning and shallow spool baitcaster reels.

Look at this video compare Legalis and regal. just like @Big Handsi like the idea of airbail more than bearing, that why I went with Legalis. They both should serve you well. I got exceler LT because I also like screw in handle more than hex handle, but they all are almost the same. So whatever cheapest and you should be happy with any of these reels.

What knot do you tie? What wrong with stretch line? Yes you can use bigger line but there will be a lot more consequent. You say ultralight and small creek I assume you are fishing for small fish, panfish trout. The bigger line will cost you distance and you might not get as many bites. If you think it harder to tie knot with stretch line, how about switch to braid? or use small snap so you don’t need to re-tie when changing lure.

I’m sorry to say this, but your logic is quite off. You have spooling station that cost 20-30 dollars You bought 1000 yds spool of FC about 50 dollars You also use Nanofil that cost about 15-20 for 150yds spool. But you’d rather spend on a reel for 50 buck that will last forever?

So how is Ultra8 compare to Nanofil? So far I like nanofil for it super light weight and casting distance on lightweight lure (trout magnet) and also it sink slower than braid, so it is good for shallow fishing.

Don’t buy the reel weight on line capacity especially when you are using braid. The mono backing only weight 4-5 grams for 2/3 of backing. You can even use leftover braid (doesn’t matter how many connections knot as long as you have long enough main line)

Do you use any leader at all? I don’t use Fireline but use Nanofil very similar with a few setups. I always have leader tie on since this type line have no abrasion resistance whatsoever. I use 4 and 6 for panfish, 8 and 12 for bass. If you always drag something on bottom I think braid might be a better choice. If you want smooth braid, try 8 stands braid like Sufix 832.

The whole tackle box no, individual package here and there, yes all the time. Recently I found Huddleston Bug which I bought two year ago in the bottom of glove compartment, and had been looking for this for years. Another one that I couldn’t find it is two package of 12” Mann’s jelly worm also ordered from Amazon about 2 years ago. Updated Now I can’t find darn 4.25” Ned Worm that I was using it week ago. Spent a good hour looking for them today and another hour yesterday.

Did I hear classic? Still have 2 Abu Garcia 5600 and 6500c3 but I use those for catfish. The low profile might not be as durable as round reel but the weight save, and smaller palm size make it more easy and enjoyable to fish for long period of time. Most of round reel users nowadays are big swimbait type.

I don’t think I need Magseal and that make it harder to service reel myself, so my choice under 100 go to either exceler or legalis. The regal is cheaper but no air bail, Revros use different material altogether, that is why quite a bit heavier. The BG is a tank and will last a long time but with finesse technique, I think lighter reel would match lighter rod better. BUT if you come with 30-40 bucks more and wanna stay with 3000 size, Tatula LT is a one heck of a reel to have. BTW all these reels are 2000 none Magseal size which at least for me, perfect for techniques you listed. I don’t really see the need of drag or line capacity from 2500/3000 size, unless you plan to use light mono as your mainline and need bigger spool for line management. BTW if you are interested in Exceler LT 2000, 5.2 gear ratio (not available in US). Let me know, I think I’m gonna sell it because I bought Kage LT 2000 right before it arrived.

@waymonti understand that you confused, Daiwa always come up with something that hard to understand lol. The one with D is deep spool which normally not a lot using it. The no letter is just standard (most of shimano spool) but shallower than D, then S even shallower and SS is the shallowest of them all, confusing? Yup. Picture shown, shallow standard and last deep.

Those are just guide line not mandated and mostly japan standard not wired US. Using which line diameter is up to you. Don’t worry you don’t need 240 yds not 160yds even for regular bass fishing. You not gonna see the end of you line, I guarantee it. Like @WRBmentioned just use whatever line you have until you need new line, then you go smaller diameter or even upgrade to braid. You will see it soon enough why ppl recommend smaller and soft line or even braid for spinning. One thing with spinning reel, you have to keep them 3/4 full to get the most distance, once the line go below 2/3 - 1/2 full, the distance would suffer a lot and need to bring the line up. The line that sit on bottom unused gonna twisted like crazy and not suitable to use again. That why you don’t need so much line on spinning only 70-100yds is good enough. Leave the rest of those line as backing, respool with new main line when needed. To help main line even further, you can get “line conditioner” like KVD one spray on to line overnight before fishing trip. There are plenty of video from our own Bassresource dealing with spinning and line twisted. Subscribe if you haven’t.