JustJames

I force myself to re-learn using spinning outfit more and more. First for crappie now for bass. Recently just got myself another Tatula 1000 LT and soon 2500/3000s, no turning back for me now. For the past month I’ve used majority spinning more than casting gear.

I’m also a J-Braid user for a long time from 15lb spinning up to 30lb baitcaster. i think you experienced SnapBack where your spool shoot braid out faster than lure can pull result the line running back and dig into spool since Jbraid is super soft and light. When you use soft braid, the cast control need to be tighter a little more. I do have that problem from time to time with my 30lb Jbraid especially when I forget and swing to the fence. If you want somewhat stiffer but soft 832 is the way to go. Another trick when spool soft braid I normally spool up to 2/3 - 3/4 full that way you have more control of line running out with your thumb more.

You are worried too much young padawan. I don’t have the Rapala one but I do use my broken Berkley one a lot. It might not as accurate down to feet but at least it get the job done for me. You might not even need it just buy a 150 yds spool and split to half. I need this because I have at least 5-6 reels that use 10lb braid down to 4lb braid especially on spinning rig. Another reason to buy a reel size that match the line you wanna use. I have 200i that fill with 15lb copolymer no need for backing, 150SLX with 12lb copolymer no backing and 15 AbrazX on bantam 150, also no backing. I’ll use these reel until the line down about 1/4 then I’ll add whatever line I have to make the spool full again.

You don’t have to match-match it just close enough I guess. Use whatever cheap line you have for now. From your info, you would have a lot more than 100 yds of both braid and FC in your spool, you might not even see any backing at all thru next season. I wouldn’t worry about it too much. If you have to buy new line, head to Walmart and get 10lb big game there (I doubt you would find 8lb big game) and get it done. Next time when you need to respool, you would have to re-evaluate your backing, (more backing, less main line) if you still gonna use 30lb braid or 10lb FC on your 200K. Might worth invest in line counter if you have a lot of reels.

If possible I’ll try to match mainline with backing especially with braid. If you have any cheap 10lb big game try that. BTW 10lb FC sniper on 150. Size reel, you might have almost 150 yds of the line.

First of all, the SLX 150 (14lb/90yds) 200K (14lb/110yds) not a huge different in line capacity so you will have to use proper backing to not wasted your good line. The easiest way, if you already have the K is to transfer old line from SLX to K directly. You can see how much room left that you need for backing. Do this back and forth you will get a perfect amount of backing without wasting your expensive line. What lb for backing, doesn’t really matter but the bigger the line the bigger the knot. If you happen to run all the line to your backing you might be in trouble for knot to go thru all the guides. Big knot also can interfere with braid when cast if the knot if not deep enough in spool.

Before you start on backing, you would have to answer this, why backing? there are a few reason but mostly for the purpose of saving bucks from wasting expensive line. A lot of bass anglers prefer to have line at least 3/4 spool full at all time, why? Because that is the most distance you would get and a true IPT. Some just plain rich and want fresh new line every trip so backing help by not having to replace a whole spool of line only top 50-75 yds. This method you can use any cheap mono line as backing. Another reason is to make spool as light as possible but this is not applied to majority here. Most of the fishing these day you won’t see any difference of saving a gram on spool weight UNLESS you fish finesse all the time. This camp mostly use braid as backing and mainline only 6-8lb. Now you know why you need backing. Next step, if you use reasonable price line, just fill the whole spool with such line, go do some bomb cast then peel the line off another 20-30yds tape it for reference so you know next time when your line run out to where you tape, you can cut the line and start from that point on. Braid doesnt coiled up under spool pressure so no need for backing, you can use all the way to the end or reverse in-out if needed only problem in this case is speed or IPT where when the line only half full you lost quite a bit of speed. If speed is matter then backing should be add but you would waste a lot more braid line this way. Now line you want, the diameter is also matter most modem 150-200 size reel would fit about 100yds of 20lb mono and 150yds of 10lb mono. You might not need backing if you going to use 20lb with this reel. Size of reel also matter, you have to know how much line your reel would hold. Another reason there are many size reels in market. Double uni knot is well proven, it is not the smallest knot but easy to tie and hard to mess up. Arbor knot is also easy to tie but some might not even tie a knot just tape to spool is enough. Braid backing might have problem of line slipping, you can use electrical tape or plumber tape.

Not always, yes I have 10lb braid on some of my reels but those are for specific type lure and weight. I can cast let say lipless or blade bait all day with any type of line on any of my reels but once change lure to something not so aerodynamic or too heavy then thin braid almost always a cumbersome. I can crank up cast control to no line running and no backlash but that yield to not a very good distance either.

First of, Welcome to BR. Secondly, you said you use Baitcasters for many years, have you ever use this 8lb Fireline braid with any other reel? The #8 Fireline is about .007” diameter ~ #15 PowerPro braid which is pretty small for full size baitcaster. Add to that with wacky senko, the lure stop even faster than the line coming off spool, result in professional overrun (backlash). You should try other line to try before heading of to BPS.

A whole 5” Zman ZinkerZ on 1/8 or 3/16 owner ultra finesse ball head. The ZinkerZ would get soften over time a lot more than Big TRD. Also Zman Mag Fattyz 7.25” on 1/4 or 3/8 should work good.

Yes, just like what @a1712mentioned, the spring where it make clicking sound, if you look underspool you will see groves that this spring ride on. image copied from other site. Too bad Daiwa does not make it easy to order parts, you will have to call daiwa directly or contact Tackle Trap to get the part for you. I hate daiwa just for this.

Brand new, first hook set and sound like crap, doesn’t sound good to me. I’ll return it if possible.

Size 10 is really small, I don’t even use that for bluegill. My crappies jig mostly size 4, or 6 if I’m going for bluegill. Even size 6 I have a lot of problem with deep hooking crappie. Can you up in hook size? A little more trick is to bend the hook point out just a little and keep tension at all time, don’t let the bass jump.

120-150 yds of line on spool, that is a lot of waste for BASS fishing. BASS doesn’t run as much and you wouldn’t cast that far. The rest of the line will stay in spool doing nothing but coiled up. It is okay if you use cheap line, like big game and consider half of that as backing for next fill.

@new2BC4bassnot that old, may be in the range of your alphas finesse, your purple alphas, or maybe a yellow pixy.

Do you wanna get rid some of your super old, obsolete daiwa?

Good time man, have not caught any crappie for month.

You should have at least 3 boxes and only fit 4-5 rod on each side. Use 4 wheel or caster on bottom and drawer rail on the side to guide the boxes in/out. The only problem I see from this design is, you will have to make room on top to be able to fit the rod in holder.

Something like this?

Beside from High Speed 8 and up gear ratio and Slow speed 6 and below. The rest can fish pretty much everything. You don’t really need all gear ratio for specific lure. High Speed not suitable for deep driving crank or big spinner bait, anything that require a lot of torque. Slow Speed 5.3 which used to be standard, but now only those that fish big swimbait using it. Most of my reels are 7.2 which I use for everything and 5.3 for swimbait and crappie jig becuz I don’t know how to slowdown with high gear reel.

I guess you already used Qtip trick? Maybe c-clip removal tool would work. Tackle advisor got a cool bearing removing tool from his subscribers, that would come in handy.

Love the old Abu, I almost got Morrum SX 1600c. End up with CQ50 and this little old reel cast Ned rig almost as good as my Scorpion 1000xt with Yumeya spool and the spool weight at 17 grams. for OP, I forget to mention another factor that is also important to cast light lure is “LINE” smaller diameter line usually cast light lure better, you will have to use smallest line that you can get away with, all my finesse either got #6 copolymer or 10-15lb braid, and ultra light will get 8-10lb braid. It is really step up when you look into finesse since living in city of SoCal, you will have to go light and small to get a bite. The bad part is you will catch a lot of dinks before you find a big one. I don’t recommend 1/8oz lure except inline spinner, kastmaster or blade bait, instead go with 1.5-2” or 3/16oz 1/4oz lure instead.

Hold your horse, you don’t need to hurry to buy stuffs. Next time when you visit me, I’ll have you tried all my setup that capable of true weight 1/16oz to 1/4oz. Reel is one thing but rod is equally important for light stuffs. Im also selling my SLX MGL (Japan version) or you might be able to snag one of Curado 70 from me (I have 4) or even my daiwa Alphas SV.

Nope both video didn’t indicate anything that linear mag brake can cast long distance very well. First of all the Abu STX is dual braking system as well as Abu Toro beast they equip with both centrifugal and mag brake. Also he is not really happy with the new Abu EXD and 40 yds with 1/2 oz lure I think a lot can do better with any other reels. The Toro beast on the other hand is a good reel and the tackle advisors use no mag brake at all only centrifugal 1 on. 1.5 oz lure I think 200K should do you better than any other linear mag reel and if you like round reel, try Cardiff 200 or even 300(less than 100), you will be happy and can move up the lure weight when you ready.

Like you said the weight is totally different and make the cast absolutely no comparable. Also you compare the long distance casting expert to a guy that wanna cast far (so unfair, the reel is totally different linear magnetic on wanna be and dual brake system on the expert) I might be able to cast 1.5 - 3oz lure further than 3/8oz jig given that the reel have same brake mechanism, in my case MagZ on Luna 253 and Tatula CT type R. Now How heavy are we talking here? The more heavy the less brake you need given that your thumb has been trained. With heavy lure I prefer centrifugal brake system. I’m using Luna 253 for 2oz up and Cardiff 200 for up to 2oz (restrict with line capacity). On the opposite end I like mag brake system only for my Ultra light Lure, it’ll give me better control on all situations and lure weights. Talking about advantages of linear brake on heavy lure, I’m not sure if that really advantages, on my Luna 253 I set dial to almost minimal brake (add more when windy) same as that expert said no mag brake but centrifugal to one. With my Cardiff alway 2 on and I can go to town with any size lures. BTW my first low profile reel 20 years ago was Abu Garcia 3000C linear mag brake system. why fix it if it works, I don’t mind to be called OCD give me Calcutta 300 and you can have my Luna any days. I actually thinking about getting Tranx 300 to replace my Luna soon, if I’m still into heavy lure or bass for that matter. Just my 2 cents.