JustJames

If it were me, I would get Daiwa Tatula XT MH/F pair with Shimano SLX. I use this similar setup a lot for Texas rig, no weight 4/5” senko, Fat Ika 3/8oz Jig and even some top water.

I bet it was a Daiwa Reel, if Shimano you would have got the fish in the boat before you woke up.

Nope the tip is too soft for my liking, I don’t even use my 6’10 MH/F with 1/2oz jig. I have 6’10 H/F zodiac just for that. Daiwa Blank is a little bit softer when compare to others. It is pretty true to rating on the low side (1/4-1oz) I can cast 4” senko with this rod easily and bomb cast 1/2oz frog a mile away.

This daiwa XF blank is not super fast tip at all, it get a little soft tip too which is help a lot on sensitivity and XF help on hookset when long casting. It is cast very good but I don’t use it with super heavy lure/weight. I did catch quite a good number and quality with this rod.(original tatula but should be the same blank)

R mean regular on Daiwa reel it more like MF.

Daiwa tatula I have is 7’1 MH/XF, I love this rod for Fat Ika, senko Texas Rig and smaller jig up to 3/8. I think that only action come with 7’1, the 7’2 come with R and F. Try it you will like it, I almost got one more. I fish chatterbait with XF before and I don’t see any problem (use copolymer line). My moving bait mostly using Daiwa 6’10 MF/F.

Weightless senko is not light weight in my book, any reel should work just fine. 15lb braid for senko on full size reel, you’d better take it easy on the cast.

I’m not sure my problem is the Presso or I don’t know what I’m doing with spinning rig lol. I check lure weight and line, the line I use actually 8lb line which is about the same diameter as 10lb PP super slick (2lb mono). The thing with me is I don’t like to spend much on my spinning gear so I use cheap brand 4 ply braid instead. I might have to bite and try 8lb PP (1lb mono) or 8lb 832. The trout magnet kit that I use total weight is only 1 gram (1/28oz). I might asked too much from 5’6 rod and my cheap legalis LT 1000. Btw have you tried, Berkley x9 8lb which claim diameter at .003”? 4lb Nanofil is .004”

Just like @Drew03cmcmentioned main gear and pinion gear misaligned is very possible, something or yoke broke inside and pinion gear shifted, or bearing support pinion gear or other things who knows? You’d better stop using the reel and evaluate your alternative, the parts is not very expensive if you know where and how to fix it, but professional you might have to pay labor and part which might push you up to 60-70 or even more. What is the cost of brand new Tatula Ct or even Tatula 100, I’ve seen used in good condition goes as low as 80-90 and might be a better solution. BTW, have you open the palm side plate and made sure the magnet stay in place, or brake rotor not rubbing anywhere? If it were me and if I want mag brake, I’m still gonna stay with Daiwa , otherwise a chance to try something else, let’s say SHIMANO.

If you are looking to cast 1/32 or 1/64 with 1” plastic, I doubt if any rod recommended here would get you any far. If you fish mostly from kayak and distance is not important (vertical jig or with bobbers) then any UL rod would do just fine. I’d love to try Avid panfish series myself. As of now I have 5’6 daiwa Presso pair with daiwa legalis LT 1000. I can cast 1/32 trout magnet about 20’ or so. On the other hand my bait caster setup UL 7’2 solid tip pair with either Daiwa Alphas Air or Daiwa Pixy can cast further about 30’+. It is fishable distance but not enough for me since I mostly bank fish. If you are going for JDM or even CDM(Chinese domestic market) and want some distance, I recommend SUL or XUL with solid tip. BTW I have another 6’ UL spinning rod with solid tip coming from China in a few weeks because I’m not so happy with 2 of my UL, 5’6 Presso and 6’6 Sensilite. If this still doesn’t work I might have to evaluate my 10lb braid line and go with even smaller line like Nano braid plus SUL or XUL rod (JDM only)next time.

Yeah if you get a Boca bearing kit for tatula type R which is 57 bucks(3 bearing), way too over kill IMHO. Now the problem is which bearing that busted? The save way and more efficient way is to get two stainless steel bearing (ABEC 5 is more than enough), one for palm size plate 3x10x4, and one under cast control knob 3x8x4?. The one under cast control knob required you to take the whole handle side plate out to get to bearing. BTW I’m not sure about size of bearing under cast control knob since I sold my Tatula Long time ago. https://www.bocabearings.com/products/fr-256-24112?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp24112-4&sc_intid=24112-4&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiE8-L8Ewa5aAaXs2yIEDwJL_H3bGwlboGxgR2GA36etqq0OokvUQQxoC7NEQAvD_BwE Added*** you know what I think I have 3x8x4 and 3x10x4 bearing, if you want it. Let me check tomorrow to confirm.

You will have to tune them a little. All my husky rise some faster than others. I use mostly bigger split ring, but dot weight would be easier. This one I added small piece of copper to split ring.

1/8 jig plus plastic will push the lure weight a little over 1/4oz, most of the rod and reel this day can handle this (at same weight jig is a lot easier to cast compare to lure). The distance will be different also from the line diameter (smaller line cast further). 1/16 jig plus plastic might fall around 3/16 or less depend on type of jig/hook and skirt. The lightest 1/16 jig for bass for example 1/16oz Ned rig total weight around 3/16oz , this you might have to go down to M or ML in rod and 6-8lb line. But no matter what equipment you use, I don’t think you would get 30yds of such light weight lure. Normally, I use Medium/Fast rod with lure weight 1/8-3/8 for both application and reel scorpion 70 or daiwa alphas SV line #6 or #8 copolymer distance around 20-25yds My best rig would be rod Majorcraft L/BFS lure weight 1/16-1/4oz with either Scorpion 1000xt (Yumeya shallow spool) or CQ50 with 15lb braid where I can swing the lure 25-30yds. 1/8jig with finesse hook, finesse weed guard no plastic is almost 1/4oz True 1/16oz jig head plus Zman TRD, also 5.6gram

You should be Looking for local professional first if can not locate one then DVT might be able to help. I don’t really recommend newbie to tear apart spinning reel, a lot of thing can go wrong. The heavy handle might mean old grease, bearing need flushing, main shaft on rusted pinion gear, etc. There are so many loose parts in spinning reel compare to bait caster. I didn’t mean you cannot, but if it were me I would learn with something cheap first.

Yup a whole 10 second spin.

Because you use DAIWA next time try Shishamo with 17+1 bearings.

All reels should have at least 4 bearings in handle knobs.

I would recommend just basic maintenance yearly or quarterly and send to professionals local or DVT for totally clean out. Basic for spinning reel, 1 clean drag get rid of moisture with paper towel all washer and slightly grease just the felt washer. 2 oil roller bearing, search YouTube for this, there are only 4-5 parts on this. 3 oil two bearing between handle, each side. 4 oil main shaft bearing, this you have to take off anti reverse clutch(don’t mess with the clutch itself) only three big screws and you will see bearing. All the bearings in spinning reel are there just for smoothness, except roller bearing. As long as it smooth you don’t have to do anything with it. Roller bearing on the other hand need oil frequently to make sure roller work as it should to prevent line twisted. These are all parts in Stradic CI4, in my opinion handle bait caster is a lot easier than spinning. BTW you reel come with X-Protect, don’t touch it.

Inferior casting, how so? Dig into itself, yes thin braid can dig into itself but even 40-50lb can dig too. All I want to say is maybe adjust the way you cast might help. I’m not sure how you cast Senko and line dig into itself. From my experience hard whip cast heavy lure almost always braid line would dig into itself because the spool spin too fast (due to light weight line) than the lure can pull line out. I too had this problem when using 20lb J-braid with 3/8oz and up lure weight. Switch to 30lb help but from time to time would get some dig in, even 50lb PP dig in bad when whip hard 1/2oz spinnerbait until I adjust my brake setting and also the way I cast. I found that with braid spool tension has to be a little bit tighter than normal (no side to side play). I now have 30lb J-braid or PowerPro for everything from 1/4 jig to 1/2 frog, 10-15lb braid for finesse/Ned rig and 8-10lb on my Ultra Light. Im not sure if premium would really help your problem, the 40lb PP maxcuatro have the same diameter as 30lb reg PP, Fins 40g 45lb is even smaller at .09” diameter 20lb PP same as Smack Down 30lb. The MGL spool even lighter can make start up spin faster and more fluid no need for hard whipping for distance.

This could last me another season or a few more snags.

Hope your son gets better soon. Pray ? for you your family and your son.

Curado 70 also come with plastic worm gear, a lot of ppl worried when first came out but so far i’ve Heard of any problem yet. I use mine 70s pretty hard or jerkbait rod and frog. I don’t remember if the K is also plastic, only fish a few hours before I sold it, but I believe it is as well.

The more I catch, the more I will think about it. I think about fishing almost everyday or every time I have free time. Another reason I visit bass resource many times a day. I’ll think about what lures I’m gonna be using tomorrow, where I’m gonna fish or how I’m gonna work it. This problem getting worse when I buy new gears or new lures. I’ll think/plan about it, since when I order until I catch a fish with it. Now I’m thinking, how in the hell im gonna get you a bite tomorrow. I went pre fishing a few spots earlier but still cannot get any bite myself. I hope the sun come up tomorrow so we might have more chance. Wait until spring time come, you and your son might even have more rods than you golf club.

I looked back to my videos when using left hand reel, and I palm my reel but I cast the way I palm it so no need to make any adjustment(except pitching). Same as when using right hand reel and cast with left, hardly make any adjustment just cast and reel. I have seen many bass anglers using both right and left hand reels effectively, why limited yourself try both and see which fit you the best. I’ve never had problem reeling left on spinning, with baitcaster after some practice and longer handle now it become more natural. And as @new2BC4bassmentioned you can switch when you get tired.

Mostly right hand person would cast right. It get more control and more accuracy unless, they train to cast left hand. Now reeling is up to each individual, some might think reeling with left should be normal but a lot that came from using conventional reel would prefer right. Bass fishing you don’t really need winching hand so it doesn’t matter much reeling with left or right. I’m right hand and reeling/casting with right hand. I trained myself to cast with left hand for when I get tired with my right, but accuracy and distance still far behind. I also train myself to reel left on bait caster when I need to use my right hand to control the rod for some technique like shaky head and jigging.