JustJames

This is the one 7’2 MH/F, for me I would specific of 1/4 - 1oz lure rate with a little soft tip bank. Since it custom bring your reel head to store and try different reel seat, request the one that you comfortable with. This is important to me since I palm rod and reel. There are a few different real seat on market, I like exposed blank real seat from Daiwa original tatula and shimano crucial the best. Next would me guide, micro guide, mini guide or reg guide. I like the K series or Mini guide. Micro guide is smaller, make the rod lighter and more sensitive. Last would be color wrap accent, you can pick whatever color you preferred, like RED or Orange GOLD. Anyway check out custom rod built on internet to see what and why ppl use custom rod. https://www.mudhole.com/Components-Rod-Building/rod-building-component-brands/fuji-rod-building-components

If you wanna spend money go with Kastking rack, otherwise built your own from PVC pipe. Part of my fishing station PVC pipe rock rack KK rod rack, 24 rods version but can only fit about 7 rod with reel attached on each side.

Are you talking about X-ship bearing? Shimano with x-ship will have two bearing support pinion gear, one on the frame and one on side plate under spool bearing.

Everything but jerkbait, most spinnerbait and buzzbait.

Nowadays I think shimano fade-away with 500/750 size reel, yes there are some but those are the cheaper model like Sahara. The 1000 and 500 size doesn’t really much difference. Daiwa I think start at size 1000 and is comparable with shimano 1000. The factor for me as UL spinning reel is size and weight to match my UL rod. Both shimano Stradic ci4+ 1000 and daiwa tatula lt 1000 weight less than 6oz. My old Sahara 750 weight almost 7 oz, size and weight is about the same as my daiwa legalis LT 1000. If I have budget for spinning reel I would get Tatula LT 1000 or even 2000 in a heartbeat.

I wondered you didn’t know this before you ordered, even JDM reel(Japan domestic market), a lot of them made in Malaysia. I think the cut off now is from Curado (USDM), Scorpion (JDM) and lower to be made in Malaysia. Chornarch and above still made in Japan. They both still use shimano quality material, just QC and fit and finish that a tad less.

When I started out I use braid to help me feel the bottom. I wasn’t expect to catch any fish just drag it around, feel all type of bottom and tried not to get the jig to snag. I used to lost jig most every time. These days I’m still learning and use all type of line depends on location. I found that FC and copolymer line help me finesse my jig out of jungle better than braid. Braid help tremendously when long cast and still get a good hook set. I’ll use braid (30lb pp) when fish deep and long cast. I’ll use FC/copolymer when fish around dock and rocky area in shallow. I used to think that 1/4oz jig or lighter is better when fish from bank (less hang up), but 3/8 is my go to now. A lot of ppl recommend football jig for rock type bottom but I found Arkie style jig is way better. I don’t use braid with any type leader because that is to add another possibility weak link to your equation. Remember with jig (thick hook and weed guard) you need to set hook hard. I just lost again a bass last night jig fishing from my kayak. I have lost many bass due to poor hook set especially when I fish from kayak and float tube. This is another thing I need to learn to set hook harder.

First off I’m not gonna say if that bass is a ten or not ( I think you know) and who are they PROS, right? I think we talk about average bass anglers. Here is crazy ave joe using rod to move fish.

In which way would you recommend? Just say hey go get light rod and light line and you would catch big fish? You used light rod on prespawn bass, you are either my hero or one crazy dude. For prespawn I would use the most reliable and the most powerful rod/reel I have. Bass would either bite or ignore the lures all together doesn’t matter line size or size of lure.

And here is my 6lb line, and a rod that land 8.5lb bass this year, should I recommend OP to use the same? If one wanna help other at least you should tell him the advantages and disadvantages, or educated him to the degree, not show that you can catch big fish with 6lb line and he should be able to do it too.

And you show of your great catch with 6lb FC line should help anyone or it just a show off, hard to tell man hard to tell.

I’m pretty confident in my gear and my skill, but a lot of time I got break off due to my lazyness to retie my knot, I hardly check my knot after catching fish unless I know it has been or struck with rock. And also my poor choice of using trilene knot with stiffer FC.

No that not helping OP, in fact OP already settle on copolymer line. That answer is for someone that question is his knot tying skill. You answer doesn’t seem to help OP either. On the other hand my posted, that said FC is a wasted especially moving lure should count. I’m with TOM and Paul regarding FC line and a myth of invisible under water. I use FC line but for other purposes like sinking rate, less drag, and better sensitivity when long line casting. Have you ever seen those baby fish attack FC line? tell me about invisibility, eh?

Do you think average bass anglers really spend that much time tying and checking knot? Do you think average bass anglers know how to use a proper drag according to line size and rod power? And you are right about LUCK, every time I hooked on a big fish with my small line 6lb test, all I can do is pray to whoever up above and use all my rod action/bend and smooth drag. Do you think average bass anglers using rod action/power to fight bass? I watched a lot of youtubers and at least 50% just winch the bass in with their drag lock tight reel.

@J Francho, I don’t think Tom meant to ask you. Do we need to really show since we all know you are skilled fisherman. I land many bass that heavier than my Lb test line but still compare to TOM I’m still average joe. I don’t agree with him sometime but when a fisherman that land more than a dozen DD bass speak should we at least listen?

Reel seat sticker.

Because you and your friend like high end gear and with this conquest 7’6 XH you should have no problem pulling 5lbs bass out of any cover. And no I don’t have one if I have money like your I would buy all of the conquest series.

You should go with Conquest series rod 905C MBR.

Did you post on TT? The guy that fish with me a couple times a year from over there had two. He just recently sold it. He offered to me but since I just bought three CQ 50 so no more budget lol.

@Seafuryyou know more than me and I’m Asian lol. You are right most of the count the one that more dangerous and can eat everything and doesn’t taste good is giant snakehead (shown in river monster) not Northern Snakehead. @Logan SI also understand your point, a lot of fishermen are selfish think about themself, Me included, been dreaming about adding some snakeheads, tilapia into my lake, but moral always get to me first.

There are tuners and long fin on Tustin from 91 and 55 FWY

You should try it yourself, you already have 5 spool of lines. Im still using it 18lb on my crappie rig. The line sink faster than braid and I think I feel crisper bite. The line frayed easily even with my rough finger and don’t get tangled it super hard to undone. I use it on my baitcaster, and I use a short length leader. What lbs do you have?

First pic 3-3.5lb second pic around 4 no more no less. They both are pretty skinny. Now time to buy a scale and Fish gripper(plastic kind) so you son can use it without tower. 6” Rapala fish gripper, walmart has it for 7 bucks.

At one time I used 3/8 Megastrike jig head without skirt. This jig have hook at 45 degree angle when lay flat on bottom. I also use 1/8 chomper stand up jig head. The FattyZ is really buoyancy you don’t need shakey head to make it stand up. I used it with plain Texas rig and caught a catfish with it. Another rig that I believe should work is Jika Rig with a lot of shake and drag. I also have success with Owner ultrahead ball head with ZinkerZ so it should work with FattyZ as well.

For moving bait like you mentioned, FC line is a waste, any copolymer or mono will work just fine. I only use FC for weightless worm, Fluke and Jig when fish deeper water or long target, but again I have success with copolymer as much as FC with these presentation.