Wayne P.

With a 24V system, the two batteries have to be connected together with the positive of one battery connected to the negative of the other battery (you already have that). It's called a series connection. The load is then connected to the remaining terminals on the batteries. There is no vice versa. Since you don't understand low voltage wiring, just hook it up like I described since it will involve less disconnecting and connecting what you have now.

How about this, take the torn piece, put it on the button, then put a thin layer of Shoe Goo on top of that with some of it attaching the top to the sides. If you buy a new switch, put a thin layer of the Shoe Goo on it before you use it.

nern, a few years age I caught a 9# one day and a 10-6 the following day at Chris Green. Both of them were in the cove where the umbrella shaped water sprayer is. At Chris Green, walk around the hiking trail from dam parking lot to the end of the cove on the park entrance side of the lake. There is a large beaver hut that attracts bass and crappie and several downed trees along that shoreline close to the trail. The point at the dam next to the cement tower is a good location if you cast out to the 10' depth towards the beach. You have to get to the outside edge of the submerged weeds. You will just love that hill at Ragged Mt. on a hot day. I usually walk around the whole lower lake. I'm too old and feeble to fool with taking a boat there anymore.

No it isn't. That hookup is incorrect for other than just using 1 battery to power a 12V motor. Disconnect the red wire from battery 2 and remove the circuit breaker (you don't need the wire or breaker) Disconnect the black wire with the circuit breaker from battery 1 Connect the black wire with the circuit breaker to the negative of battery 2 Remove the red wire that you disconnected from battery 2 from the receptacle. Hook your trolling motor red wire to the red wire from the batteries Hook your trolling motor black wire to the black wire from the batteries Your are done. No one makes a 12/24 volt motor any more which is what your boat is wired for now. Doing it correct now will eliminate any confusion by the uneducated in the future.

Did you make sure the released centrifical brake blocks were not extended when you put the side plate back on?

Decent shore fishing at the Rivanna Res. is non existant. For a nice hike with fishing thrown in, try the Ragged Mt. Resevoir on the Southwest side of town. There are some very large bass there. Chris Green, Walnut Creek, and Beaver Creek have the best shore access. This time of year, soft pastics rigged your favorite way will produce the best.

Burley, both of mine shoot the best groups with the Federal hollow points.

Mash the hook barbs down, the lack of a barb on the hook will minimize the damage and make unhooking them easier.

Your suggestion about the motor angle may be the problem if the motor has carbs that have fuel level floats in them. Next time don't trim out as far and see if it improves. Also don't trim out at all until you are ready to get on the trailer, that will keep the carb bowls full until the last minute. If you have EFI, that doesn't apply.

steve, PM sent

6/0 or 7/0 Superline EWG with the point exposed more than the factory setting. Also a 6/0-10/0 weighted swimbait hook with the spring or spike on the eye.

fishguts, the lack of grass and constant dingy water hasn't affected my catch rate, but it has eliminated the very successful grass patten I used for the past few years. I have fished there for 20 1/2 years so I have just adjusted to patterns I used before the grass appeared.

Burley, I have two of the Rugers like in the squirrel picture. One of them is wearing a 6X 30mm scope. I can look them in the eye when pulling the trigger. A long gun is too easy.

I find post frontal conditions locate the bass in predictable locations and in groups. That makes them easier to find and easier to catch. Ever heard of the phrase, "a fish won't turn down a meal in a crowd" ?

The BMF hook is a good one except for the barbs on the shank or any other hook with the shank barbs. They will tear up your fingers when the fish wiggles around while unhooking them. I flatten those barbs and use a toothpick thru the hook eye to hold the bait.

It sounds like you didn't wind the line on with tension when you reversed it. If it didn't do that before you reversed it, that is your problem. The only superline of any brand I have had digging in problems with is the very slick finish Invisibraid. Of cousre I don't use any in less than 30# on baitcasting gear. The best handling size is the 50#. I've never seen or heard of any Spiderwire superline available in 25#, it's either 20# or 30#. Actually, I dont' know of any superline that is available in 25#

Deer with bow, muzzleloader, ss pistol, revolver, and center fire rifle. Add a camera to that list too.

Starman, come by my house sometime and I'll show you the nets I mentioned. I live in the Four Seasons subdivision across from Fashion Square Mall.

I can tell you about the Cabelas link folding net too,. I have two of them in different sizes. At best they are limited to pan fish and are designed for small trout. They have a belt clip on the handle. Pretty pathetic for more than those uses. Of the three mentioned the Stowmaster is far superior to the other two for any serious work.

For the Bayliner owners and potential owners, remember to disconnect the boat from the trailer for launching. You don't want to be associated with the "blond in the Bayliner story", LOL

I have the Hibernet and it is not large enough or strong enough for a musky or even a large bass. The flimsy hoop makes it a challenge to land even a mid sized bass.

From a battery information site: Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries. For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery. Voltage State of Charge Specific Gravity 12V 6V 100% 1.265 12.7 6.3 *75% 1.225 12.4 6.2 50% 1.190 12.2 6.1 25% 1.155 12.0 6.0 Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

The most reliable source I have found is Coastline.

Sounds like you have the system that relieves the excess pressure and grease inside the axle. You can't overfill it. As long are you are not getting grease sprayed on the inside of the wheel as you tow, your seal should be OK.

The long black thingy is the 1/8" heat shrink tubing. There is nothing to crimp.