Wayne P.

endless, if you prefer a less stiff weedguard, use saltwater leader mono like this:

That is correct Star Man. Have you been to the McCormick Observatory at UVA and Fan Mt. at Covesville?

Yep, been there, done that, screwed up, had to do over. #1 clean the hull. #2. Use a primer that is specifically for aluminum and follow the instuctions for it. #3. Use a paint that is exterior metal specific.

Yes, the improved clinch knot works well with superline, If you have to add glue to the knot, you haven't tied it properly or have used the wrong knot. A palomar works very well with superlines.

You want the transducer to be level with the water surface when you are using it. If your boat has water line stain on it, just align it with that. For proper operation on the transom while on plane, most have to set the trailing edge a little lower than the leading edge to avoid air bubbles over the face. Set the height of it just like the included instructions.

PM sent

I make my own version of a weedless hook using a 4/0 or 5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus hook. That gives me plenty of hook strength to handle big bass in heavy cover, a heavier weight hook, and a weedguard that is durable and replaceable. The guard is made of 7 strand stainless steel leader material, and the attachment is 1/8" electrical heat shrink tubing. The tension is about equal to the stiffness of a brush type weedguard on a jig.

Add the Uni-Knot to the list of knots for snelling. That is what I use. It is similar to the demo knot #2 but the line loop is reversed and the tag end is towards the hook eye and offers a little more bait holding friction. Another benefit of snelling is keeping the slip sinker from damaging the knot when Tx rigging.

Think of the sensitivity as a screen brightness control and your images will improve. The higher the setting, the brighter the image. Adjust the sensitivity as the water depth changes. I get the clearest images with Si colors Amber 1 and Brown. Some users like the Amber 2 for bright days.

Madd, you haven't hurt my feelings, I'm just picking on you for that comment, LOL I get lots of help with the adjustments by visiting the Side Imaging dedicated web sites and I take the time to try suggested settings. It also helps to have lakes with lots of unique features to test the settings. I found some bulldozer tracks on a lake bottom that are at least 25 years old. I was amazed that they had not been silted in and the unit would even display them.

It's a fun way to harvest frogs for their yummy legs.

I do the filler method with all lines I use. I use about 1/2 reel spool of junk line for a filler or just replace 1/2 of an original full spool of good line when it needs repacing. For proper bass fishing setups, the bottom half of the spool is never used so why waste good line as a filler?

When I use that frog on grass mats, sometimes I replace the leg strings with small lead bullet weights. That way the extra weight has more effect on the mat and lets the fish know something is above them. I also add external rattles to make it even more obvious. I don't put any objects inside the body because I don't want complete body compression to be hindered so I get postiive hookups.

I found this "useless" Down Imaging screen shot on a Side Imaging website-note the depth:

I've had the best success at the area of the lake near the golf course. It's been a few years since I have fished there. The last time I fished it, I caught more catfish than bass on bass lures. I have since moved on to more productive waters. My first few trips there, the launch site was on the East side of Rt. 29.

The extra weight of the fluorocarbon line adds to the distance.

I got the two bottle set and had on one the boat and one at home. The one in the boat solidified and the one at home is a good as new. The enviornment it is stored in affects it's life time.

Put a skirt and trailer on a shakey head jig in your choice of weights.

Steve, PM sent

Yes, keep the engine running, water can get in the motor and ruin it. Happens quite often when doing this (wasn't me though)

You have operator error. I had a '93 Javelin 379T and to maintain any suitable water level for fish preservation, the drain valve (lever thingy behide the driver's seat) has to be closed all the time. The livewell has a piped overflow and also it will overrun the upper lip (space between the top of the livewell and the deck) and drain into the hull when the boat is bow up during take-off or as you described with the plowing water following the large boat. The livewell fill pump is sized to not pump water faster than it can drain out of the overflow. The best operation of that system is to fill the livewell at least 1/2 full (with the valve closed) before you leave the dock in the morning. That will give you enough water to maintain your first fish as you fill it the rest of the way after catching it.

montrose, this will get you started------ http://fishinweb.com/messages/messages/13028/13028.html?1258393767

endless, I haven't fished Hunting Run much this year so far, but when I do, it's still insane catching. I fished it yesterday and even caught some on beds, my report is on the other site. bartoopuck, I go a least once a week, sometimes twice. Most of those are during the weekdays.

They weigh less than other insert guides.

If your card is fhp, it is not Navionics, it is the Lowance Fishing Hot Spots software. The Navionics software is Hotmaps.