Wayne P.

When the fish want a larger bait than the 1/4 oz model. I have seen it make a difference with schooling bass.

Thanks I have used a much larger version of under water camera with LCD display and had to use the included hood to even seen anything on the display. That is why I was skeptical about that little screen.

I had considered one of those and I called the company to get some operating facts. I asked particularly about the ability to see the display in bright sunlight and was told no you can't, but can add a screen protector like used with cell phones. I know for sure that won't make it easier to see. I wouldn't anticipate using one at night. It is not on my list for underwater cameras any more.

I have fished with that group on the hot side several times. They get great support by the community.

You fishing with the Orange County group?

If you add weight higher than the bottom of the hull, that will make it more unstable--simple physics.

He is the owner of the Transducer Shield and Saver company.

YES you can, the regular stock TM-HDsi has to be modifed slightly to clear the prop. That is why you need to talk to Scap

DSI models are Down Scan only. HDI models have Down Scan and 2D sonar.

No way would I use a sliced shank hook like that. Those little barbs will cut you when you are handing the fish and removing the hook. This style of heavy straight shank hooks are better on you. Several companies have a similar hook. http://www.***.com/Mustad_Denny_Brauer_Grip_Pin_Max_Flippin_Hook_5pk/descpage-MGPEH.html

That is the opposite of what most experienced Side Imaging owners do since they are searching with Side Imaging as they are fishing.

Agreed, cute feature but little functionality

It is a good idea to get the jig to get hung up more easily. Then you can loose the jig and the split ring.

The clip on type is less likely to deflect the hook set like the molded in type will.

What the bottom looks like if there was no water.

If you want to use the HDS-7 at both locations, all you need is a trolling motor transducer at the bow, and another power cord. Then an extra Ethernet cable from the console to the bow if you want SS/DS at the bow.. The LSS-2 is an Ethernet accessory so you can put the LSS box under the dash, and have SS at the bow or console. The easiest method of moving the display is by using a RAM mount so you don't have to unscrew and detach the gimbal mount.each time. I would just take an extra RAM mount ball at the bow.

Use a swimbait hook with the spring keeper. Put the hook bend between the legs and lightly "skin hook" the point in the frog's back. (Texposed). Don't stick the hook through the frog body. That way the plastic will not take up any hook bend space and the frog will swing out of the way to give you the best possible hook-up ratio.

Rocky Bearclaw

The 200 gram Thinsulate Bugaboot is OK for cool weather or active in cold weather. Prefer warm boots with 7 times the insulation----Rocky Bearclaw I also like the Sorel pack boots if I don't need to walk much. Those two are cold weather boots

Not any more, Motor Guide has a version of that now called the X5 with Pinpoint GPS

The Guest charger is made to maintain the battery/s, leave it connected and plugged in. Never, ever leave a battery in any state of discharge.

Your analysis is correct about the small diameter lines. The term that applies is "lack of shock strength" That is why the diameter of a superline should be the determining factor, not the rated strength.

I have the higher end version of that model with the same display and same functions--798. They have the highest resolution display in the industry-very sharp images. Adjusted and used correctly, it is almost like a picture of the bottom:

In what form do you want the maps?

LOL, quite simple. The unit is a Humminbird 1198c SI Combo and I use the RAM mount system for the boat. All I needed for portability of the display is another mount ball and a surface to hold it. The board is just a circular board from Lowes--maybe for making bar stools ?? I need that size board to handle the weight of the unit so it won't tip over. Smaller/lighter units can use a smaller mount surface. The GPS antenna is attached to a series of 3/4" PVC fittings attached to the board. The Side Imaging transducer is attached to a former Minnkota trolling motor transom mount and shaft. All I need more than that is the power connection and I use another unit power cord with an auto plug adaptor attached to an auto cigarette plug that has two battery clips. If the boat I am on has the cigarette ligher plug, I just use that for power. That particular setup only works with aluminum boats that don't have a thick transom. For fiberglass boats, I use another transducer mount system which is 1/2 " PVC attached to an aluminum flat bar that I form to the thickness of the transom and hold it on with duct tape. I have used these setups for demo on other's boats and I also have them prepaired in case my equipment is needed for a SAR operation with the authorities' craft- if I can't use my boat.