TOXIC

BPS now offers a 200mph suit that is lighter and warmer than the 100mph.

Fair enough but what if you are on the great lakes (where an anchor is required equipment) and the DNR Officer that does the safety check on you goes by the USCG Regulations? Better safe than sorry.

Normally, a brake controller isn't included. That's for electric brakes and ours are all surge. My o4 was the HD package with a tow package (locking rear differential, 4.10 gearing, oil cooler, transmission cooler, oversize brakes, Class 4 hitch) but no electric brake control box. I had to add it because our horse trailer had electric brakes. My 2016 has the electric control box but it is the "High Country" package as well as the towing package. Just used the controller the other day on a horse trailer.

The binoculars were usually a dead giveaway.

Since the micro deploys straight down you would need to get some distance between the 2 poles to get a good grip, otherwise you will still spin.

YIKES!! Keep your head on a swivel and be safe. I thought we were all done with this winter.

I most definitely am but I have a gut feeling that the price is going to be more than a Ranger.

I can't envision a regular powerpole on a kayak? I sure would be interested to see how you mounted a pole and pump and powered it. Now, I could possibly see a micro anchor by powerpole but not a regular pole that normally needs a bracket and is pretty heavy let alone a second pole to the setup.

Not that I have ever used it but I had a friend who first polished up his tin boat (it was crazy bright mirror finish) and then used this: http://www.sharkhide.com/sharkhide_metal_protectant.htm Not cheap but he really liked it.

Direct from the USCG: Anchoring Anchoring is done for two principal reasons: 1) to stop for fishing, swimming, lunch, or an overnight stay, and 2) to keep the boat from running aground in bad weather or as a result of engine failure . Anchoring can be a simple task if you follow these guidelines: • Make sure you have the proper type of anchor (Danforth/Plow/ Mushroom) . • Attach a 3-6 foot length of galvanized chain to the anchor . A chain will withstand abrasion by sand, rock, or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line . • Attach a length of nylon anchor line to the end of the chain using an anchor swivel, a combination called the “Rode .” The nylon will stretch under the impact of heavy waves or wind, cushioning the strain on the boat and the anchor . • Select an area that offers maximum protection from wind, current, and boat traffic . • Determine the water depth and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud) . • Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need to let out . The general rule is five to seven times as much line as the depth of water plus the distance from the surface of the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow . For example, if the water is eight feet deep and it is two feet from the surface of the water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 or 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out .

The material is secondary to me because most all will be Gortex. I think I read where Gortex patent has run out and many now have the technology without the price of Gortex. Anyway, I make sure there are features that after years of fishing in all conditions have taught me valuable lessons. Neoprene wrist cuffs, sealed seams and zippers, detachable hood that will effectively seal around my face, adjustable leg cuffs, zippered fly and full length leg zippers, removable liner and a "butt flap" that effectively covers my rear (even with bibs). I have different suits for different weather or times of the year. Run 20 miles across Lake St Clair whilst being rain or sleeted on and you'll know PDQ if your suit is quality but for summer and warmer times, I have a lighter weight suit. I prefer to go up in size so that I can layer underneath with fleece or sweatshirts because if I get too hot, I can remove the layers. Usually I prefer vests under my suit for more arm motion. I currently have 4 suits and realistically could use another.

If I am going work up the motivation to pull and replace the bearings as preventative maintenance, I sure as heck am going to replace everything in that hub because I don't want to be doing it again in the near future.

The major considerations have been mentioned. GVCWR as A-Jay said is your first consideration. Many times the question is not "will it pull it" but more "will it stop it". There's a big difference between the 2 and even more if you add in an "emergency stop" or stopping on wet or otherwise slick pavement. Trailer brakes help but are not the only consideration. Whatever you get make sure it has a "towing package" if available or at a minimum add a heavy duty transmission cooler and consider upsizing the brakes. I have towed 20 and 21 foot boats with an Explorer(V8), a 3/4 ton Silverado and my current truck a 1/2 ton Silverado with a 5.3 and 8 speed transmission. The only thing my 2004 3/4 ton did better than my current truck was stop because of the larger brakes. I am thinking about upsizing my rotors and pads when my current truck (2016) needs brakes. Remember that 4wd actually drops the towing rating but if you need it, then you need it.

I see it both ways but I have been involved with some Elite Series pros for a number of years. Many times a "pro" in a tournament will "run" a number of spots to find out which are producing (some at different times of the day) or sometimes will move off a spot to let it "cool down" or restock. Committing to one spot and sitting it all day normally isn't a very good or productive tournament strategy. That being said, none that I know would consider them to be "their" spots. Let's be clear, the only ones who tournament etiquette apply to (spot ownership) are others in the tournament, not the general public. That's why KVD could make a snide comment to Ike and Scott Martin could get upset at the other "tournament" angler who he felt moved in on his "spot". Same way with Gagliardi and the older dude in the NITRO except the guy in the NITRO was not in the tournament so he had no inclination or motivation to move (nor should he) and that's why Gagliardi stayed on the spot even though the other dude was being rude. So if you are not in the tournament you are not bound by the unwritten rules or common tournament etiquette that apply to those who are. Fish on if you so desire. Personally, I have moved off many a spot when any tournament angler moves in but that's me. It wasn't uncommon when I was guiding to have many many fishermen move in on me or even actually follow me around the lake since I had a pretty distinctive recognizable boat and they knew I was a guide.

Old Formula WD-40 had Fish Oil as an ingredient. The new formula does not. I doubt it repels fish but it probably lost its "attractant" value as well.

What's your budget? Motorized or people powered?

Fishing related: https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/grass-goat-trolling-motor-weed-guard Simple little product that has made my life in the Potomac grass beds much more bearable. Many times there are "rows" of grass on the Potomac with open water in between so if the fish are staged on the inside grass beds, you have to go through the outside grass to get to them. No more pulling up 20lbs of grass on the TM and constantly having to clear it to keep going.

Gary got out of the beef business. He'd be hard pressed to impress this Nebraska boy with any beef products anyway.

If you are going to get an Ultrex why would you upgrade the MG?

I have been reading about ice flows breaking loose from both St Clair and Erie with Helo/airboat rescues. The one on Erie was 200 fishermen!! Be careful out there.

HA!! It would be low hanging fruit if it were Mike. He gives sooo many fodder for the bad feelings. No, not worth rehashing the incident here. Unless I'm having beers with someone and the stories start, I'm not going to spill it on social media. I will give you a hint, there's an online blog out of Michigan that covered the story and backed it up with pictures, interviews and film. They had to fend off the pro's attorney with their own to get them to back down.

The one thing I hate about "spooling stations" is that most of the good ones require you to take the reel off the rod. Those that do not are somewhat awkward. So, I use a Rapala de-spooler (looks like an electric toothbrush that you feed your line through and it is battery driven) and to spool up I use what is in the pic I posted. As I have said many times, it doesn't matter how I spool them up, I always walk the line off in my driveway/yard/street and rewind it back onto the spool.

Look, the same consideration applies to the professionals. Treat them the way you would want to be treated. My friends would have gladly moved if he had asked. There's absolutely no way they could have known that he was going to fish that water but instead of asking, he decided to show his azz. He was disrespectful, called them deregatory names and almost rammed one of the boats. What he didn't count on was that there were a couple in that bunch that took offense and were willing to give it back to him to whatever degree he wanted to take it. He backed down like a little wimp. His wife was tougher than he was when the conflict moved into a public forum.

Good work. I had a friend give me a few racks from a store going out of business that were used to hold individual golf clubs. Same concept. The only difference is where the rods are held in by the rack there is green felt which also helps protect the rods from scuffing.

I honestly don't know but as far as I'm concerned this "pro" was sooooooo out of line (and his wife and his publicist and his business partner) that I can never support him in anything he does or the baits/rods/reels or any product he hawks.