Junger

Set the spool tension to where if you drop the lure straight to the ground it doesn't backlash, then give it another half turn tighter. Does it still overrun that way on setting 4? If so it seems like you have a defective DC unit.

Negligible in my experience. It may help on thicker diameter lines, but I cast both reels far enough out it doesn't make a noticeable difference. If you use a leader knot, it may not pass through the T-Wing, depending on the knot and thickness of the line.

External braking system adjusted by a simple 1-20 dial system.

I like the Curado K body over the Tatula, but the MagforceZ braking is all external and easier to dial-in IMO. Both are very very good reels, but if I was putting this on a rod where I would be swapping lures with varying weights a lot, I'd go with the Tatula. If my lures would be all around the same weight and I didn't have to futz around with the internal brakes a lot, the Curado. Also, what rod is the reel going on? Heaven knows you can't put a Daiwa on a Shimano rod, and vice versa or bad things start to happen to you.

Roll the dice, but don't get your hopes up. Like A-Jay said, use PP and you're protected.

My Powell Max3D 714 spinning rod is more sensitive than my OG Tatula rods (all casting Tatulas though), IMO. Not sure about the Endurance though. Sorry, may not be helpful and further put more questions into your mind!

I've started down the dark path of playing reel dress up...knobs only for now. Left: GLX MBR 844C & SV103XS with a Steez SV G1 1016 spool Right: Megabass Orochi EMTF G1 & Zillion SV TW XXH

I know what I'll be asking for my B-day in July!

I just got the TAEL 7' AGS M/MH and love it. Throws a weightless senko a mile, and I'm even chucking a 1/16oz + TRD a long ways too. I'm using 6lb Yo-zuri Hybrid, what are you using?

A TRD weighs about .14oz, I just weighed one.

I use a mustad fastach clip for moving baits on the same rod. Makes it easy for me to change weight, color, lure type quickly and efficiently, which is half of my battle because I only get 3-4 hours fishing on weekends. I do check the line often, and after every fish catch and retie as necessary though.

Daiwa SV reels are very forgiving.

The tidal basin is so much fun....if you catch a biggun you'll have about 50 tourists come up for a photo op with you.

8.1 on an SV reel. Pitch or skip a jig in, then right back out and rinse and repeat.

Curious, what were your reasons to go with a DC reel for jigs?

I have a couple rods where the nut doesn't screw down perfectly flush where there's no gap between the blank and the nut. The feet on reels aren't standard, and when you have rod boots that probably aren't standard either, nothing is going to fit perfectly snug without trial and error. OP should probably edit the topic and add a Mea Culpa line in the very first post. It seems like some incorrect manufacturer bashing until the bottom of the page. His post was 100% sarcastic. Look at his user name...

Mostly in stock at American Legacy Fishing. I wouldn't buy a higher priced item like this from a China Ebay seller.

I think he meant the rating was understated (underpowered), meaning the rod suites better for 3/8oz-1oz lures. My experience with the Tatulas/Zillions are that the lower end ratings are understated on the MH and H power rods. I think they are more true to their power rating in their ML/M power rods though. I have the 6'10 MH/F Tatula, and it's a good all around rod, but doesn't excel at anything specific. I think the sensitivity is just OK. For bottom contact, I think there are better rods at that price point, and you can even pick up a way better used (but almost new condition) rod in that range, $100-$150.

Yep just saw this video too. I like Tackle Advisors YT a lot too, he seems pretty unbiased unlike that other guy who doesn't seem to know how to set up a magforce reel to optimize casting distance, which is the metric he uses to compare performance.

I started getting into serious fishing a couple years ago. Going on guided trips seemed like a logical way to start catching and learning from pros. I corresponded with one and he emailed me back details, and the pricing and put "$XXX.00 Total". The thing is, not every service industry is the same. I know how to tip at fullservice sit down restaurants, and even semi-fast casual places that aren't full service but clean up your plates. But fishing guides was unbeknownst to me so I figured that I was to show up and pay that amount. After a few trips, I've done some of his specialty guided trips where it's communicated that it is "$XXX.00 + tip" and I am more than happy to tip on those special guided trip occasions.

You should adjust the tension knob on the DC if you switch baits of varying weights though to maximize distance. For casting into wind, on a long cast the DC brakes will correct any overruns. If you have the Curado, and Tat CT Type-R, and you want to throw some lighter lures in the 1/8oz territory, get the Tat SV. If you plan to just bomb lures 3/8oz and up, definitely get the DC. Both will skip fine if set up properly.

Way cheaper to just get a frog rod no? Lots of good options for those at $100.

You can set up any baitcaster to do that though...just set the tension super tight and max brakes and smash a lure into the wall. The DC can skip but you have to set the tension knob right. The way I see the DC reel is, it can correct overruns during the cast, but the spool needs time to correct the overrun which does happen on a long cast. On a skip, there's not a lot of time for the spool to correct itself, and it relies more on the tension knob.

If you do get the DC and don't like it, I can trade you either a 7.3 or 8.1 SV TW (mint condition) and the cash for the DC!

I like the SV for lighter/finesse applications including skipping. I can get it dialed in exactly how I want it with the external Magforce brakes, and the tension knob for whatever I'm doing (skipping, pitching, roll casting, etc). I like the Curado DC for long-bomb casting where I set the tension knob appropriate for the lure and then just bomb it.