Big Rick

These hook points don't point inward like EWG hooks. Bass often do a swipe on jerk baits and EWG hooks won't get them. These Nano hooks will and they're super sticky. And with 3 hooks on these baits you seldom lose a fish because it gets the other hooks embedded during the fight. My PB of 8.3 lbs came on this bait, but with the original Outbarb hooks. I still use the original until they're broken or dull and then I swap out to the Nano Finesse hooks.

Focus on the good memories. Let go of the bad memories. Get another pup and start over all the wiser. Life goes on whether we do or not. So don't spend too much time on regret or you'll miss the opportunities afforded you in the here and now. And while a new pup won't replace her, your heart will grow to love the new pup over time. Speaking from experience. While this year wasn't my complete worst, it was nowhere near normal and very subpar. My favorite lakes just didn't act normal. Lakes I've fished for over 30 years just completely changed this year. I tried everything. And it wasn't just me. Buddies I've known for years had the same issues. I'll be glad to see a new season for sure.

You'll get many differing opinions on this subject. You can use the same rod for topwater plugs with trebles and single hook baits like vibrating jigs and buzz baits, but one of the applications will suffer. You'll either have your combo set up for treble hooks and lose single hook fish or catch the single hook fish while straightening your treble hooks. The compromise could be costly in lost fish. Here's why: You need a parabolic bend in your rod to keep treble hooked fish pinned while having a fishing line, like mono or braid with a long mono leader, with enough stretch to prevent tearing the hooks out of the fishes mouth or straightening them out. While that same rod can be used for single hook applications you'll need to be fishing braid so you can drive the hook home and prevent the fish from throwing the bait at you. So, long story short, you can use the same rod in a pinch but you'll catch more fish and be much happier when you can have a dedicated top water plug rod and another combo for vibrating jigs, buzz baits, and spinnerbaits. As always, YMMV

For those that might be searching for this line, it is spelled with an "a". Magnathin

Since I have been acquainted with the spectacular SV spools on Daiwa reels I have greatly increased my abilities to skip baits. However, I have never tried a crank bait. That, in my opinion, would most certainly define "un-skippable" with treble hooks, round body, protruding lip. If you manage to pull that off you will have achieved a skill very superior to mine...

I respectfully disagree with this train of thought when fishing a spinnerbait. And here's why. I have fished a spinnerbait for years to the point I know every little nuance my baits give off. Blade thump and vibration become second nature to my rod hand. Anything that feels out of sorts and I am setting a hook. If it's not a fish, no harm done since all I have to do is restart my retrieve. Often times this sudden bait movement actually does cause a fish to strike. I don't believe that I can't feel the fish that are actually striking the bait. There are too many telltale indicators. Sudden ceasing of the blade movement, line goes sideways or gets slack, any number of indicators that tell me something is different at the bait end of this equation. And hook sets are free. I will say that often a bass will follow a spinnerbait and swirl away without actually striking at the bait once it moves out of that fishes strike zone. A quick pitch with a senko or fluke in that general direction usually remedies that problem. This one-two punch has saved many days for me. Again, no disrespect intended. My experience has just been very different. I have found that trailer hooks hinder my experience way more than they assist me. YMMV.

Where I fish a spinnerbait using a trailer hook means two things: I'm either staying hung up in tree roots and snags, or I'm not putting the bait where the fish live and thus wasting my casts, time, and effort. That's why the freedom line is so attractive to me. Attach a Zako, or any other soft trailer, and the bait is rendered weedless. That gives me the confidence to put it where they live without fear of ruining the honey hole by hanging up. YMMV

Sorry to hear of your challenges. But, with a little ingenuity you can overcome. I use the Mustard Fastach Clip all the time. It is very easy to connect and disconnect a bait. I have never had one fail. My biggest bass to date while using it is 8.3 lbs. There are two options, one with a swivel and one without. I seldom use the swivel option unless I'm fishing a Whopper Popper. These clips are user friendly and tough as nails. As a side note, I did manage to get one bent out of shape when I snagged bottom and literally pulled my boat to it with my line before the bait hooks finally gave up. I recommend using pliers to hold it while attaching it to the bait to prevent rolling and flipping of the clip.

The most successful full size spinner bait I've ever used is a Stanley Wedge Plus. It's tough as nails as well. Blue Shad has been my go-to color for the cypress stained lakes I grew up fishing.

My first was on a Mann's Jelly Worm in grape. It smelled so good I wanted to eat it instead of fish it. I caught a ton of fish on those good smelling worms.

I lived that life for years. Patrol all night, fish all morning... We worked 12 hour shifts starting at 1800. Sure made for some good off days, though. Retired now and still can't wait to get on the water at the first crack of dawn. My favorite time to fish. I feel that if I missed the sunrise then I missed the best part of the day.

If you're seeing big fish blow up in the middle of tiny shad there's a great chance that the bigger fish are actually targeting the fish that are preying on those tiny shad. If you're determined to catch the bigger fish then upsize your bait. You won't catch any of the smaller ones, but the ones you do catch will be the top of the food chain. A big walking bait should do the trick since it has multiple treble hooks, can be fished in one spot longer, and better mimics the fishing preying on the tiny shad.

It appears you are looking for a finesse sized spinner bait based on your selections. While I don't have a lot of experience with the baits you've mentioned, I DO have a ton of success with this little jewel. It a War Eagle Mike McClelland Finesse Spinner bait. There are a lot of color options and these blades are very unique in size and shape. It just works. On occasion, I have been known to trim the longer skirt portion and attach a small paddle tail like a Keitech Easy Shiner.

Topwater plug rig ~ 7' medium heavy, moderate fast action, braid to leader Buzz bait/plopper rig ~ 7'3" heavy, fast action, straight braid Frog/toad rig ~ 7'3" heavy, fast action, straight braid Jig rig ~ 7'4" heavy, fast action, braid to leader Jerk bait rig ~ 7' medium, FC or mono depending on depth of bait In other words, all horsepower and no torque....

You must have some good smelling trees in your neck of the woods.....

Sigh.... beautiful fishing weather this weekend in east central Ms and I'm manning the smoker. Got a turkey breast, 6 racks of baby backs, and a ham to smoke for a family gathering Saturday. At least I'll be eating good. My birthday is next Wednesday so I plan to make a trip or two next week, weather permitting.

I've never seen a single willow bladed Nichols metal flake bait. The Pulsator is an amazing bait with very high quality components and terrific color options. In my experience the flake coating does mute the flash somewhat but adds a different refraction and reflection that's very appealing. I would recommend going with gold blades if you're looking to tone down the flash.

You're right and that is a great attitude. It's a proven fact that whatever you're looking for, if you look hard enough you will find it; whether that is positive or negative. Kudos to you for finding the positive in an otherwise negative year. We all can benefit from your example.

Both. FC seems to have less stretch, IMO, so my start and stop retrieves offer a more crisp response. And my baits appear to run deeper with 12 LB FC. I mostly use Seaguar, although the choices are endless and can really get costly, and have had no issues. InvisX and AbrasX are my go to. As a side note, I have really come to like Sunline FC100 system leader when using a leader for jigs, T-rigs, and chatterbaits. It's proven to be tough as nails and holds up well on those hard hook sets.

Here's my $.02. And I'm sure that's all it's worth! I use flouro for crank bait. I use braid to leader on nearly everything else. I've tried all the combinations for the different techniques and have settled on this. Braid to flouro for my chatter baits, soft jerk baits, swim baits, and spinnerbaits Braid to copolymer or mono for any topwater application other than frogging and buzz bait and that's straight braid. On topwater poppers and such I prefer to have a 3 ft leader of mono for the stretch and floating line. It also really helps with preventing the braid from tangling in the hooks on casts and walking actions, as already stated in a previous post. The most important factor I have learned is to have the right power and action in the rod for the technique I'm fishing. While line type does affect the bait action, depth and the ability to set the hooks, ultimately it's the parabolic bend of the rod that keeps fish hooked. The rod is also the most important factor on preventing bent/broken treble hooks.

Me too. And I'd like to try the ultimate bunks, but am afraid of launching this way on a steeper ramp. I have always launched this way and don't always have a dock right along side of the ramp. @A-Jay How do you launch on a steep ramp?

In my experiences fish flee from sudden movements more consistently than they do from a sound like braid rubbing a limb. If I can see the fish, they can see me. Rod movements have caused more fish to flee than my bait or line causing sound. Bass are not top of the food chain and when in shallow clear water they are definitely looking up for that predator. At least it sure appears that way to me.

Solene

In most cases if you're reeling braid in fast enough to make noises in the line guides then you are probably fishing with a bait making it's own noises via rattles, blades, vibrations, and such. I doubt a bass would distinguish the sound of the line sliding thru the guides over the rattle and thump of your bait. And if your fishing jigs, T-rigs and such you'll be fishing slow enough there's very little, if any, sound emitted from the line sliding through the guides.

That may be the case with some. But, I use the FG knot with no issues and tie it while on my boat in less than 2 minutes. I have tried them all and prefer the FG due to it's slim diameter and strength. It passes thru line guides and reels with ease. As far as old fashioned knots go, I use the Palomar for EVERYTHING else regardless of line type. As is the case with all knots, the strength, functionality, and longevity of knots is mainly affected by the proper tying of it. Improperly tied knots fail. One of the most misunderstood and discussed knots on this forum is the Palomar, yet I have used it for 30+ years with very few problems, if any at all. As always, YMMV and it really relies on the knot itself being tied properly.