Big Rick
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Everything posted by Big Rick
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I towed my 18 ft G3 with my '13 Toyota RAV4 all over the country. It had a 2.4 non turbo 4 cylinder. I had no issues pulling nor stopping. I just had to use prudence on starting as it would spin a half turn if I hit it too hard at take off. My RAV was not 4 wheel drive either. Not sure what my boat weighs with all my gear but it's more than 1800 lbs. My Yamaha 90 outboard weighs nearly half that, lol!!
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Evergreen Shower Blows. The best of both worlds. I prefer the 105 size. 9/16 oz. 4-1/8" long. Favorite color - Emerald Shiner.
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THIS^^^^ My G3 Eagle floor and decks ore all vinyl and I love it. It's pebbled so it's not slick when wet. Yet it's impervious to mud, scents and fish slime. However, Spike It WILL dye it.....
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I understand where you're coming from as I am not a fan boy of any brand. But, I will say there are some presentations that do require proper gear to accomplish the goal in mind. That said, larger Swimbaits is one of those categories. Cheap out on the gear and you've wasted money buying the expensive bait because your gear won't perform the necessary functions to make your bait do its job. So, if you want your swimbait presentation to be accurate and want to feel bait movement and strikes then you'll have to pony up a bit more cash than you would on a normal duty setup.
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Then you have a fresh smelling knot that resists stains!
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Some thoughtless, selfish person was fishing a paddle tail, ribbed swimbait and lost the paddle tail on a short strike. Instead of putting the broken bait in the trash they threw it in the water. The salt in it starts the decomposition and discoloration that also makes it very soft yet swollen. This kid's bait dragged bottom and inadvertently "hooked" it. I caught a fish the other day that had a chunk of Senko in its mouth that looked a lot the same way. Some people are so thoughtless when it comes to disposing used plastics.
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Money well spent. A better rod makes a lot more difference in bite detection and the lighter it is the less fatigue.
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Perfect answer is a medium heavy with a more moderate action. Since you don't have that option I'd go with option #1. The medium heavy will have enough backbone and the mono will help with keeping the fish pinned once you hook him. Braid on medium will just compound the fact that the medium rod isn't stout enough to snap your hooks free of grass. And braid with trebles is often troublesome.
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Search is your friend.... There are a ton of threads on bass being line shy, lure snaps and swivels, and even chumming. Probably more info than you could process in one setting. That said, I have mixed feelings on the line shyness of bass. I use Mustad Fastach Clips with great success. Even caught my new PB using it. 8lb 3 oz this spring. It's also available with a swivel. Pic attached. I know NOTHING about chumming.....
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I'm on the total opposite end of the spectrum, often times. When I have failed at plastics and different power presentations I will put a Splash-It or Evergreen OB Popper, head to the bank, and fish every spot of cover I see on the way out. More times than not, I end up with some fish before I get to the landing. Something about the pop and pause that even a lazy bass can't handle....
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A word of caution on the higher carrier braids.... If you are using a sliding weight, as in a Texas rig or punching, DON'T go with a higher carrier than 5. That's because the higher the carrier the thinner the strands and those strands fray very quickly with the weight sliding. Even if you use a bobber stopper the weight will fray the line and thus weaken it right at the knot. And it don't take but a few cast to start noticing it. Tungsten accelerates this as well on higher carriers. That said, that is the ONLY negative I have found with the higher carrier braids. They are smoother, more limp, and cast like a dream. And it seems the color last longer as well.
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M/L will not be heavy enough to set hooks in soft plastics and will not have enough backbone to handle poppers. Medium with a moderate fast tip is your answer here. You'll save money and frustration from fish jumping and throwing your poppers. I fish a Pop-X with mine and it works like a dream. One main difference is I use 14lb mono for the desired stretch when working the popper. It also is very forgiving on hook sets and jumping fish. I have used many brands hunting the perfect popper rod and have settled on the Mojo rod in medium with a moderate action. I realize this will stretch your budget so my next in line is a Abu Veritas. The Veritas is a great rod that you can often find for $70.
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The SV spool has no moving parts to my knowledge, so there's no adjustment different than a Tatula that has no SV spool. I just set mine like normal. You'll find that after you get used to it you'll set your reel looser than normal and your cast with lighter baits will go farther with less effort. Also, skipping a bait is much easier with much less potential of building an eagles nest in your spool.
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One of my favorites. Because of the compact size you don't get a lot of lift on the cast. So, they're very easy to cast on bait casters. Just make sure your line is no larger than 14lb so you don't overwhelm the action by pulling it along with winch cable.
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The length doesn't have much affect on the stability as far as fishing goes. It's the WIDTH that matters. It your boat isn't at least 36" wide at the BOTTOM I'd keep my feet in the bottom and not build a raised platform of any kind. Otherwise your getting wet on every hook set.....
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Cheap doesn't often mean good deal. In fact, it often means a money pit. That said, please understand that if you get a glass boat on a stump you often need the big motor to get off it. If you don't have that big motor then you're getting wet in order to get free. Glass boats displace WAY more water than all the other options.
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30# Power Pro Braid. Small enough diameter to cast a mile yet large enough to stave off line biting in the spool on hook set. I don't want any stretch when I'm fishing a buzz bait. I want instant hook up. I let my rod keep the fish pinned. Fish hit a buzz bait fast and hard. You want to hit them immediately following the strike.
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Sigh..... another order from TW.... Bait Monkey doesn't need any help @PhishLI!! Thanks for the report!
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This^^^ Rain often raised the oxygen level up shallow and draws fish in. Especially in the dog days of summer. A good hard downburst will often stir the baitfish up which causes the bass to move up as well. Then it's whatever reaction bait you're confidence is in. I'll speed up my presentation to test the waters before I commit to slowing down after a good rain.
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The whole purpose of this bait is to draw strikes on the pause. The very nature of the bait when paused proves that. These baits are very quiet. They won't draw a strike from very far. However, the way they stand up when paused lets the hook and trailer dangle down and entice a follower to bite. The very best trailer is the one it came with, Mister Twister Double Tail Grub. On the pause those appendages really act up and draw a strike. Pause it next to cover like a log, stump, dock, or clump of grass. It's inherently weedless so throwing it into heavy cover isn't an issue. And if you get a blow up while on the move stop your retrieve immediately. Let it set for 5 seconds. Then give it a slight twitch. Often times it gets inhaled. Hope this help...
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You may be correct in the statement concerning SMALLMOUTH. However, the largemouth I catch have a greater propensity to have worms in water temps above 85 degrees. The exact same fishery will not produce worm infested fish when water temps are cooler. Therefore experience and repeated test results prove that temperature of MY particular bodies of water are definitely a contributing factor. My bodies of water are in MS and LA. No smallmouth in my waters...
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Not misinformation. OPINION. There's a big difference. Bass in water at 90 degrees have a propensity to have worms in the fillets.
