sal669

If you can find a last years Daiwa Capricor (silver, not the new orange ones) somewhere ,you should buy it. I got 2 of them in clearance for about $80 each. They are great, great reels with excellent reviews. I suppose the new model ( orange)should be good too, but I don't own any and I waven't seen any reviews. I don't like their colour . On the other hand, you can't go wrong with a Shimano Symetre (I own one). Take it as a geat concession from a Daiwa guy :-/

My friend, You are doing somethig wrong !!! I own 3 Regal-Zs(2500 and 2000) and I never had any problem with them. I even use them for carp fishing, now and then.Heck, I bought 2 Capricorns expecting to need to replace the Regals( I have them since the models debut), but I don't think it's gonna happen' soon.They just don't wear out if you use them properly and take care of them There's some good advice here allready. I'd just like to add this: do not reel the fish in (like with a winch), "pump" him with the rod and then reel in the slack. Trying to reel in the fish without using the rod puts tremendous stress on the reel, causing failure in the bail mecanism and/or gearing. Allways close the bail with your hand, not by turning the handle !!! Hope it helps...

Same here. I use 2-6ft of clear mono or fluorocarbon line, depending on water clarity

I have the Symetre FH2000 (older version), used it for bass and walleye for about 5 years. Great reel. I would not go smaller, though. I feel I need the cranking power and drag to control a bigger fish. About the other models mentioned, sorry. My other spinning reels are Daiwas.

There was an article (I think In In-Fisherman) that was addressing the isue of Fluorocarbon in clear water on bright days and they said that fluoro acts similar to "fiberoptic" cables that handle information transmission using light. So the line captures the sunlight and sends it in the water, making the fluoro line look like a long neon tube streching from the surface of the water to your lure/bait. This issue is easily eliminated if you cut the line and retie it like you would have a leader. The light would travel in this case only to the knot. The leader would not be seen by the fish. If that is true, why not use braid or mono and a 2-6 ft fluoro leader ??? That's what I'm doing for a long time now, but not because of this finding. Because of managebility and cost efectiveness. As for the Tectan Premium line, I'm using it on 2 spinning reels and one baitcaster for about 3 years now,and I like it a lot. It is slowly replacing P-Line on my reels ( I still have a couple spools of P-Line which I will use, but I don't think I'll buy more).You have to chose the line(Tectan) based on line diameter, not lb rating. That's the European standard( and I think they use the same sistem in Asia too, but I'm not sure). Anyhow, lb rating is not accurate, so I compare diameters on the lines I buy. I would just add that I didn't noticed Tectan to be less abrasion resistent than other lines with the same diameter. Hope it helps...

Welcome !!! You're "gut"-hooked on bassin' now .... Wander when the Bait Monkey'll show up at your door ... On the other hand you're progressing nicely !!! Tight lines, Alex

Power Pro or Suffix. There's no other braid for me.

Your DS rod is deffinitly better than the cherrywood, but I suggest you try annother experiment: use the same set-up on the DS, but change the line on the Cherrywood combo to 10lb Power-Pro with a 2-4 ft fluorocarbon leader. Than both you and your dad fish alternatively both rods. Then both of you decide which set-up is more sensitive. Tight lines...

I am looking at it a bit differently: determine the weight of your jig/lure and line you will be using depending onthe water conditions ( small creek, lake with open water, heavy cover, etc), then select the power and action of your rod. For example if you will be chasing smallmouth in a small river with 1/8,1/4oz jigs you will have more fun by using a medium or med-heavy /fast rod. On the other hand, if you will be flipping those 1/2-1oz jiggs in heavy veggies / snag infested waters you need a heavy or even X-heavy/fast rod. It's not the bait type it's the weight of the bait and size of line that determines the power/action you need. Just my $.o2

Right on !!!

The only "Heavy " rod I have is a flipping stick. Unless you are fishing realy heavy slop/cover or you are targeting big fish I think you should be OK with MH. On the other hand, I don't know how well you gonna manage to T-rig and C-rig with the same rod !? Most of my T-rigging happens using less than 1/4oz weight+soft plastic, I C-rig only a few times a year, if at all..C-rigging requires about 3/4oz( sometimes 1oz)lead+ the rest of the stuff. There is a big difference. The MH rod will strugle with the light bait/lure and will strugle with the heavy stuff. Generally, rods handle BEST the middle range the manufacturer's rating. I chose my rods based on the weight of the lure/bait( mostly 1/4-1/2oz) and line I'll be using (10-15lb usualy) PS: I just pulled out my Cabelas catalog and I'm lookink at the Kistler Magnesium TS rod model MgSWMH70... I would laugh in anybody's face who woud tell me that a 7' rod rated MH/Fast, line 12-20lb will handle reasonably well 1/8 OZ !!! lure/bait. I think it's all a marketing "trick", nobody actually determined the real specs of this rod. "Something is fishy in Danemark" Hope I didn't confuse you more...

Lighten up, guys ... I do not own and i will never own a Kistler product because Charlie Ingram and his "unpaid" advertisment show "Fishing University" (or something like that!?) praises so much the "Kistlers" and almost always the guy in the back of the boat outfishes him !!!! ;D BTW, I like how he holds his rod, straight up to the sky ... Just go out and fish, whatever rods you own. Tight lines

I like their "pop-r"s; I grabbed about 2 dozens out of the clearance bin a couple years ago at Sports Authority ($0.89 each, if I remember correctly). Caught a ton of bassies on them. Check the hooks and change them if needed. Their lippless CB(rattle trap style) is worthless, in my oppinion.

Good advice !!! I would just add SLUG-GO-s to the list ( just to make it more confuzing ) Good luck...

THANK YOU !

I'm thiking : California = BIG BASS : I'd go for the 8-15. But the rod-reel-line should be tuned to the lure/bait.

I would say: > if the lure/bait weights less than 1/4 oz = spinning outfit > if the lure weights more than 1/4 o z= baitcaster. I know you can handle lighter lures with todays high end reels, but this is my "rule of thumb" Just my $0.02

I do the same thing !

OOOOPPPPss, :-? I posted in the wrong "section" ! Would a moderator ,please ,move the post where it belongs ??

Good job !!!! Stop setting the hook on those poooooore bull frogs !

Hi guys, I did some "frogging" last year using a 6-6 MH/fast rod (horny toad & spro jr). I also have a 7-6H flipping stick, but I noticed that I mostly "pitch"( clear water, vegetation is not matted, mostly hidrila type; no lily pads), so I started pitching with the same 6-6MH rod. I think I would do better using a 7-0 H or MH with a slower tip ( my jigs weight between 1/4-1/2 oz). So I went on the CABELAS site and looked around and I can't make up my mind between: >Fenwick HMXT70 MH, rated for 1/4-1 1/4 oz lure ($89.95) and >Team Daiwa Light & tough TL-701-RB, ( heavy) rated 1/4-1 1/2 oz ( on sale for $99.88) It will be teamed up with a TD-S reel. I am most concerned about these rods handleing/ pitching of 1/4 oz jigs. Any input/info will be apreciated. Thax, Alex

Fresh water: WALLEYE Salty: Flounder

Good advice ! I would just add: -Do not reel when the drag is in action!!! ( like when a fish pulls line or you are snagged and keep reeling hoping to free your lure) It just twists your line... -Make sure the spool is filled correctly, without the line beeing twisted.

Congrats !!! Sounds like the , is after you (senkos).