fin

Sounds like a cookie maybe? Interesting. I guess they don't want people sharing the code. Copying the link when you right-click on "activate discount" might work.

I've seen them around $30-something on sale.

I use a MHF for everything, because I'm bank fishing and only want to carry one rod. I mostly use a 6-6, but also have a 6. I tried a 7MH once, but it was no good for the lighter stuff like t-rigged worms on a 1/16 oz bullet. I've got several 7 mediums, but don't like them for hooksets on soft plastics. I never cared for ML stuff. I don't do neds or wacky rigs. I do occasionally throw small stuff like grubs or beetlespins, small spinnerbaits. A MH doesn't pose any problems for me with any technique or type of lure I use. I can't see the advantage of lighter rods, other than casting distance. I guess ignorance is bliss. I don't care to learn what I'm missing.

Koi is probably right. I've seen several aquarium fish dumped in the lake I fish. Someone dumped a bunch of goldfish once, and I guess they didn't know what to do in the wild, so they just hung around the same area like they were still in an aquarium. I was surprised that they survived there for over a week without being eaten.

You can also just pinch them down partially, then if you ever want to, you can stick something like an X-acto knife blade behind the barb and raise it back up. You can only do it like once before the barb breaks off. I went through a barb-less phase, then started losing too many fish and went back. I'm not saying barb-less is bad, but it may not be for you. I like something in between. Yes, the inner part of the pliers that are flat.

I don't know. Here's a couple better pictures. Ignore the blue spot, that's a reflection. The belly is all chrome. The nostril is unusual, that's probably a good identifier. I'm glad you asked, because it made me notice how bad the hooks are. I need to replace them. I like it a lot too, but I don't think I've ever caught anything on it.

😄 This is just one of my racks. That's almost all of my squarebills I own on the rack I posted. I've got three other racks, and one of those is about 2-3 times as big as this one. I just redid the big one with a similar type design, but it's not near as nice looking as this one. I'm about to redo two of the other racks based on this design.

Pretty hard to mess up a sdj. That's one of the reasons it's my fav. I guess you could miss a loop and not realize it. I don't trust fluoro, personally. Nothing scientific, just bad experiences. Is 20# strong enough for a 3oz bait? I don't throw stuff near that big myself, so I have no idea. With an $80 lure, I think I'd use straight braid 😄

I went by size and then grouped by brand, type, color a little. Top shelf is 2”, second starts with 2” and then 2.25” on right side, third and fourth are 2.25” and bottom row is 2.5”. You’re right though, I spent a lot of time rearranging them. I sorted them a little before hanging, that made it a little easier.

I thought I would share this idea. I’m kind of proud of it. Like most things in fishing though, I imagine someone else has already done this and I’m re-inventing the wheel. (Free) - Picture frame 19” X 23” $3 - Two packs of 6 - screw eyes 1/8” X 1-3/16” $3 - Can of black spray paint to paint dowel $1 - 5/16” X 48” wooden dowel $3 - Zebco 30# test mono 250 yards $10 total Holds around 70 squarebills. I made my first lure rack a few years ago, and have made a few more since then, trying different methods and materials each time. My first racks were made with horizontal dowels or metal rods. The treble hooks would hook directly onto the dowels or rods. The problem with those is that the lures usually hang with their back/spine facing out - you can’t see the side of the lure. That’s why I switched to using mono to hang them on. It allows two of the three treble hooks to go behind the line, instead of a single hook with the dowels/rods. In addition to the line the lure hangs on, there’s an additional line that runs behind the lure. That line keeps the lure from rotating and keeps the lure positioned so the side is visible. Non-slip loop knots are used on the left side of the rack, and Trucker’s Hitch knots are used on the right side. The loop knot allows the line to be slid up and down on the dowel to reposition as needed. The Trucker’s Hitch is used to tighten up the line so that it becomes taut like a guitar string. The Trucker’s Hitch will also slide up and down the dowel. The second reason I used line instead of horizontal dowels or rods is that the line can be re-positioned as needed. When using dowels or rods, you have to know what length of lure you will be hanging before you start, and afterward you are stuck with that and it can’t be changed. The screw eyes hold the vertical dowels in position while maintaining a gap between the dowel and the frame. The gap is needed to allow the line to wrap around the dowel. The Trucker’s Hitch allows you to put a lot of pressure on the line. The line needs to be really tight so it doesn’t sag from the weight of all the lures. The dowel can be bent easily from this pressure if enough screw eyes are not used. The reason my screw eyes are spaced unevenly is because I can’t math. This hangs in a junk room so I wasn’t too concerned with appearance, but it could be made to look really nice to display retired lures or collector’s items, etc. There are all kinds of frames available, the dowels could be stained instead of painted, the screw eyes are available in different colors/finishes. You could even get one of those lights that are made to be mounted on picture frames. You could also put a print in the frame itself. The tricky parts of putting this together was mastering the Trucker’s Hitch, and the production variation of the screw eyes. With the Trucker’s Hitch, it’s tricky to learn where to start the knot so that you don’t have more than a single width too far from the edge (see the closeup). With the screw eyes, the size of the opening varies. The dowel needs to fit inside the opening. I had to go through a few packs at Home Depot to find enough to work. Even though they were the same SKU and had the same specs, the opening varied a lot. The ones I used were labeled 1/8”, but a 5/16” dowel fits inside it (?). If you were to buy them online, there’s no way to know if they would fit. I also realized after years of replacing hooks, there’s a standard way to hang them - two in front, one in back. Some of my lures wouldn’t hang like the others until I took the rear treble off and flipped it around. I hope somebody finds all this useful 😂 These are almost all “found” lures, by the way. I think maybe four of them I bought, the rest were fished out of the lake or plucked from trees. The picture frame was from a moving sale. I got two of them for free.

It's more like similarities than standardization. You may find one brand's sizes that correspond to another brand's, but you can't count on it. Like @nso123 said, if you stick with only one brand, then you can count on the sizes remaining the same.

So to clarify what you’re saying about stretch, if someone is fishing mono/copoly/FC 10 lb. test, it doesn’t start stretching until about 3.5 pounds of stress or more is exerted on the line? I’m trying to understand, I’m not disagreeing with what you’re saying. What is “line drag going through the water”? Is this basically slack in the line?

I don't buy much online, or offline for that matter, lol. I get requests to rate stuff all the time, but I've never gotten a question like that.

So rather than answering customer questions themselves, they have a robot ask other customers the question. Who comes up with these ideas?

I've had different results from one bag to another of the same product, same color, same manufacturer, everything. The only difference were production variations. Maybe it's all in my head, but I've seen it many times.

I'm just happy to learn I'm not the only person this kind of stuff happens to.

"Go temp hot glue"? is that auto-correct at work? Lo temp? I guess all hot glue is not the same. The cheap stuff I have remelts at fairly low temps, and it seems like sometimes it eventually works itself free after a month or two. It gets pretty hot here. I used to skip the wrap, but this time I thought I'd try it to see if it helps prevent the tip from shifting over time. Seems like it should. Maybe I need some new hot glue. What I use isn't very sticky either. Any recommendations?

I just did this a few days ago. This video on wrapping is pretty good, just turn off the sound. Just use some old braid for thread and then put a few coats of clear fingernail polish on it. I thought they used something other than hot melt on mine too, because it looked like a yellow powder, but after I drilled it out, I tried heating it again with a heat gun and found out it was hot melt after all. You may have to heat it to get it all cleaned out enough to get it to go all the way in. It should go all the way to the tip. Cut a big sliver off a piece of hot melt and slide it inside the tip, heat it up and then slide it on.

I wouldn't recommend you try fishing 350 days a year in Maine 🥶

Try the original - Mann's Little George.

Is it worth the $10 to you to get one without the chips? It was free to start with, right?

Like a jointed popper, I guess. That's what I was going for. I think I used them like one time right after I made them, didn't catch anything and forgot about them.

I think this is mostly it. I fish a highly pressured spot where schools of shad come in and schools of bass ambush them. When there's multiple bass, they'll bite almost anything without hesitation out of greed and fear that someone else is going to get their shad. When there are single bass, they will often bump the lure. I think sometimes they also just run at it to see how the lure/target reacts. It's not often that I see shad floating, but it does happen. The shad will jump up onto the rip rap to get away (where there are water snakes waiting), so I don't know if they are stunned or just injured trying to get away. The frog/topwater slapping thing is different behavior, I believe. That's a mystery to me. We know they can suck a bait under, so why slap it out of the water? What are they trying to do? It seems like defensive behavior, like they could be trying to stun it, but not necessarily to eat. Yeah, so whatever the fish is doing when it's swatting, it's telling me, "I'm right here, throw something different!"

Maybe the latter, because that's what I do when my back starts bothering me - I walk and it quits bothering me for a while. Walking usually makes it better. It's part of the reason I fish in the first place - for the exercise. I say 350, but I've never sat down and totaled it up. I keep logs, so I could find out if I really wanted to. I can't believe I miss as much as 30 days per year, that just doesn't sound possible. Somewhere between 15-30 I guess.

Was it Einstein that said: the bigger the fish, the further back you have to hold the camera to get the whole fish in the picture, therefore the bigger the fish, the smaller the fish in the picture?