PhishLI

Since you have two, separate them side by side and disassemble both from the handle to down to the side plate keeping all parts in order and compare. Make sure to note the orientation of belville spring washers #71 with respect to each other. There really aren't that many parts as you can see from the schematic below. No square nut and compression spring like Daiwas. Should be easy to figure out what's what quickly. Hopefully the threads on the main shaft aren't fubar.

I got clearance to go fishing way earlier than expected after yesterday's follow up with my doc, so I gave it a shot. The lake had changed a bit from a little more than a week ago. Then the water was steaming hot, and quite low. Still, I found a decent night-bite into the morning and was happy with my very first wade of the year. Last night the water was closer to full pool due to heavy rains on Friday and was now tannic-clear instead of dingey-green, and it was also much cooler. Light cloud cover partially hid a gauzy-red wildfire-moon which I thought was a yet another good omen, but I just couldn't find a bite even though baitfish were pushed up to the bank everywhere which is always a good sign. Not a sniff. My weather app claimed there'd be 4 mph winds gusting to 8mph, but once I arrived it was glass-smooth and not one fish broke the surface anywhere in 3 hours. Either I completely missed the bite window, or there simply wasn't one because they had lockjaw from this past weekend's cold front and the shock of cool water with runoff chemicals. I'd spoken to the daytime crew earlier and they'd all skunked, so I figured night time would be the right time, but not this time. Oh well. Got some pics from last week's trip though. Some good pulls including a nice 4 pounder. A Zman Goat ToadZ in Coppetruese rigged on an Owner Twistlock Light 6/0 3/32 weighted hook and fished like a swimbait through bluegill beds got all the love. Missed more than I caught, but every strike was violent. All I could do for the past 11 months was dream about fishing, so it was thrilling. The word grateful has taken on new meaning for me. I'm grateful.

👍If you snag one, report back.

This has been my firsthand experience.

I believe you're correct. Nothing about it pops out as Doyo or Banax Korea, even though both have some production in China.

The CC 80, CR 80, and CA 80 found on TW are DOYO builds. Korean MagTraX lin mag brakes.

I haven't, and for no particular reason I don't know anyone who has either. Spro Europe recently released shorts showing it uses a Daiwa-esque type magnetic rotor. Can't find any published schematics though. If you're on the TW mailing list, the 15% off until 8/6 sale works for this reel. Not knowing one way or the other, I'd question if their parts support program exists. For the asking price, even at a slight discount, this is something I'd like to know. Newly released Daiwas in that price range are fully supported.

Go to the DSG website and set your local store. Do a search for in store items then list what's available at your price point. You'll probably get a few suggestions which will leave you completely confused, so just flip a coin and be happy with whatever.😁

Also, as of the last time I looked through BPS schematics, no extended turned diameter on their pinions, whereas Lew's has the P2 pinion going back to the previous gen LFS. So, the Platinum is definitely built on a dated Lew's/DOYO platform.

I'd recommend keeping an open mind on this subject and would suggest not using this experience with bottom of the barrel line to scare others off of the prospect of trying fluoro. Fluorocarbon is definitely an item where it's very true that you get what you pay for. Perhaps to a higher degree than most other things in fishing. The gulf in performance between the top and bottom is vast, especially when used as mainline.

Just to add some flavor to this discussion: Back in '77 my first Daiwa 1000C had Made in Japan cast into the reel's foot. My second one, bought shortly thereafter, had Korea cast into the reel's foot. Couldn't tell the difference between them then, or today. I still have them both. The point is that Asia other than Japan has been at this for a long time, and I'm unconcerned about their manufacturing capabilities at this point. Besides, what's the choice in the meantime? Japan will certainly offshore more and more as time goes on. Bates announced at iCast that they'll be producing some models domestically, but how many here on this board will give them a chance at their asking price? I'm not worried about China or any other Asian company other than Japan building a fishing reel or rod and who might re-label it in full or in part as long as it's good. Ultimately, who gives AF? The business cycle is going to do what it does no matter what. In the meantime, run over to ALix and use your powers of perception and sniff out what you can with regard to what's what and who's who. If you're too lazy to do that, or uninterested enough to bother, then you don't deserve to save a buck.

Haibo from China. They know what they're doing. Just as Doyo stays out of the US market with agreements with Lew's, ABU, Daiwa, and BPS, Haibo stays out too, but you can still get them shipped here through ALIx.

It isn't. It's just a crisp M. It feels stout compared to a typical medium spinning rod which isn't unusual. Mine pretty much has a 5" weightless fluke tied on full time. Usually, a BBB Jerk Minnow or a SK Caffeine Shad. No problem fighting them out of cover.

Love it. Smooth as can be too. Hyperdrive gearing is legit. Was running 8lb Sufix Advance copoly on it, but we're totally choked out here now. Like the everglades.

I have a huge roll of Okuma 50lb braid I've been using for years.

Max Power PE 1.5 is rated at 28.6lbs and is also stupid thin. Just got a 200m spool for my Tat 80, Alphas SV, and whatever else I might try it on. Broke it down to 4 runs of 165' to use on top of backing.

So, you go for it then, sport. Full bore. Knock it outta the park.🍿

If you like Dobyns, just drop down to a 7'3" MH rated up to 3/4oz and you'll be fine. Fishes like a M+ and will throw those baits. FR 733C 7'3" Cork-Split 10-17 lb 1/4-3/4 oz Med/Heavy Fast Senkos, Flukes, Spooks, Spinnerbaits, Horny Toads

I really didn't want to deal with my spinning gear much due to wind knots with typical light braid like PP SS V2. I remove the bail trip dogs from my spinners, so automatic bail actuation was never the issue. It was working light baits on slack line causing it. After @bulldog1935 recommended Varias Max Power PE and I tried it in#0.8 I've totally changed my mind. Not only is it ultra-thin for the lb/test(16.9), but it's also very strong. Casting distance is also spectacular using my Tatula LT3000/Tatula XT 7'M. After every third trip I pull out about 120', pinch it in between my thumb nail and forefinger, then walk it down to the end to untwist it. No wind knots in years. With 832 and PP SS V2 in 15lb test I'd often get wind knots before the end of one session of casting very light baits, and they felt like rope in comparison. I imagine that other Japanese X braids are as good or possibly better, but I'm fine with my choice of Varivas. Game changer, IMO. Also, Tatsu lives up the hype, IMO. It's worth it, especially if it's broken down to useable lengths like 170' over backer.

Absolutely🤪

Perhaps, but I'll go with my gut.

If you're a fan, try the 150 too.

I doubt sponsors or potential sponsors would agree. Just sayin... If someone else decides to go down that road, I'll just watch from the sidelines quietly.

Yup. I doubt they'd pay attention to civilian tinkers who'd blown one out.

If you own a Curado K and like it, there's no reason to get the M. Same if you disliked the K. It's a lateral move performance wise. If I had to choose one over the other, I'd get the M, but that's strictly from a servicing point of view. The M's plastic gear side plate is secured to the aluminum frame from the outside with machine screws whereas the K's plastic gear side plate is secured from the inside into the plastic side plate with coarse self-tapping screws which is a cycling failure mode waiting to happen. Not a problem if one never chooses to service their reel but... Smart move by Shimano to revert back to tried-and-true methods no doubt prompted by their authorized techs stripping side plates.