bulldog1935

Japanese Phoenetic translation. Ideograms represent blended ideas over millenia. With introduction of western ideas, they began combining ideograms to also represent sounds for new western words. When I search Yahoo, I both write the western word, and then find a similar product or the brand name on a lure shop website, and copy the ideograms into the search block, also. e.g, Robelson 五十鈴工業製造 ダイワ(DAIWA) ベイトリール 21 ジリオン SV TW 1000P/1000/1000H/1000XH 右/左ハンドル (2021モデル) this, btw, is the OP's listing, but on Amazon.jp The Japanese take humor in the phonetic translation shortcomings - they enjoy them. E.g., ブライトリバー Brightliver is actually Bright River and this major player in the Japan underground market sails their masthead misnomer with glee same translation problem, Airrite is supposed to be Air Lite - but the Japanese like this kind of thing.

@FryDog62 - showing part of my tracking from origin to US Customs (FedEx ground took over the following day) My package originated in Japan - this is a JDM product - note, this reel body was bench-made in Japan My '21 JDM Zillion foot has the very same Made in Japan marking, which USM import Zillion Does Not.

I bought my JDM '21 Zillion from Asian Portal the week it was introduced. It has fished hard and, going into its 4th year, will keep fishing hard. Noteworthy, it has never backlashed during its tenure. I've bought quite a bit of JDM tackle from Amazon - I have a US Prime account, as well as an Amazon.jp account. I recently bought the SLP Works Zillion body. In this case, buying through the US website saved me $20 over buying from the .jp website (I went through checkout on both websites before canceling the .jp order). It was delivered in one week by FedEx ground, which included import through Amazon Customs broker. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZC11WKH This is my fourth 34-mm Daiwa - I have spools and handles to spare. Looking back through my .jp account, I bought my Zillion Silver Wolf, a Smith Ltd. rod grip, a Try-Angle BFS spool for Isuzu reel, several spools of braid, tough to find lures, and and Ostrich bike bag straight from Amazon.jp. btw, for your link, you only need what's in front of the first ? This is true for both Amazon and ebay links https://www.amazon.com/Daiwa-Gileon-1000HL-Handle-Model/dp/B08NP3DZQJ/ref=sr_1_1

Omega Pro went to work at Arroyo. First cast with a live shrimp brought in a 19-1/2" black drum - not right away. The fish took good drag and made several runs against the 3-lb drag set, and the only way to recover line was to pump the rod. Must have been 10 minutes until we got a tail slap on the surface (they like the deep channel). Knew right away it was a drum and not a snook - UPS truck instead of drag racer... Also worth showing off, replaced the stock knobs with SDS Custom, rec'd from Ukraine today - these are the knobs that match Abu, Lew's, etc. Look good, substantial and grippy. Adding a note that I was floored how well this reel casts. This is a very different spincast, with brass gears, ball bearings, ceramic line guide, a real drag, and a real pitch/precessing spinning spool that lays the line wide for long casts. When I was matching these with rods, Crowder IM6 ML for lures, the combo cast 1/8 oz past 100' - the distance matches a top-end Daiwa LP baitcaster w/ 10-lb mono. In use, the reel ($47 from Amazon) more than proved its worth against a brute fish.

I'm not sure why fade is such an issue for so many people. All my Japan X-braids fade and catch Big fish for 3+ years. This was the last fish on 3-y-o YGK last spring, that I replaced with upgraded Varivas Si-X (hard coating) going into the fall. Before I went to Japan Izanas-made braids, I fished only 832, down to 6-lb on finesse spinners (and a Lot of big fish). 832 (coastal camo) is good round line, has a good FEP coating YGK Oltollos finesse braid on right, finer diameter, 16-lb. The difference between the Japan X-braids, they're stronger, finer fibers, tighter weave, and twice the breaking strength for the same diameter.

Any forged aluminum frame will be suitable. I would say your Alphas Air TW will work fine. There are many Youtubes of folks fishing theirs on the Gulf Coast. I have a friend on TKF who bought his a few years ago and fishes it hard. He just reported a bobble with his clutch, but he also fixed it. https://texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=256616 I fish my (forged magnesium) Steez part time in salt finesse, mainly dock fishing on a long rod, and don't take it on my kayak. My Zillion SV TW w/ Ray's Studio SV spool is fishing into its 4th year in salt kayak without a backlash or a hitch. I had an AMO spool bearing rust in Silver Wolf, got it removed, and had a zirconia salt-specific BFS bearing to replace it. The big upgrade on SLP Works Zillion is the clutch.

Alphas Air has a huge fanclub on the Gulf Coast. Zillion Silver Wolf. This has spool swap to AMO Even better, buy SLP works Zillion w/o spool and handle, and add your own aftermarket spool and handle.

I still think this is a trick question.

To me, this is non-sequitir. For mono, this rig needs 100% thumb, but casts 1/8 oz into next week.

Well gee, Spanish cedar cigar boxes, of course. I pick the best and flattest to stack tools on my bench, also for work space that I can fold up. I use the blocky ones for storing projects like round reel frames. They're also extremely useful for storing bicycle parts in a different location.

1 to 7 g is a typical range for a short stream baitfinesse rod. Fish these in hill country limestone creeks for endemic bass - "Texas brook trout," which occupy the same niche in warmwater that trout do in cold. Can also get by with really light rods for shore fishing, which I just returned from 2 nights of my favorite shore finesse fishing under dock nite-lites along a navigation channel in the Texas tropics. Note, this longer progressive rod has a much wider lure range, which denotes fish-turning power in the rod butt - though the long tip on this (spendy) rod is too goosey to risk taking out on a kayak, where a redfish may run wide under your boat. In river kayak, I'll give up the extreme light end to stop a bass at the boat, and S-glass shines here. I have this very similar 5'4" 1-power IM6, intended for bass, that doesn't have a lure-weight rating, and while it will cast 2 g, the rod comes alive at 3. While the S-glass rod above is rated 5 g at the low end, it fishes 3 g - even skip casts - like a champ. Here's my all-around reservoir baitfinesse rod, which fishes the full-rated range, 1/16 to 5/8 oz, and fishes it all well.

@shackman Amazon stocks them - prime one-day delivery

The issue is backlash. The rod should be doing so much work casting 1 oz, that you should make a smooth cast. With heavy weights, mid-cast backlash should be nonexistent, and the backlash concern is start-up jerk. The 1 oz is going to jerk the spool start-up pretty hard. This is where a good centrifugal brake (or MagForce) helps. You should not be adding jerk to the rod.

There was a time when everyone (except maybe Zane Grey) had only one rod. I grew up with Mitchell 300 on a 7' Berkley TriSport, that I fished jetties, inshore, and bass. Going back, especially to the 50s, everyone had one rod for everything. Pretty sure Theodore Gordon dunked worms with his fly rod. If you lived near trout, it was a fly rod - if you lived in Colorado, probably also had a Colorado reel to also fish newfangled mono with it.

For spinning reels, I have done the option of laying the spool on the ground label-up, and putting my weight on top of the spool. This still results in a small amount of twist because of the diameter difference between spinning spool and source spool. Also w/ spinning, fish a micro swivel, and twist will disappear. The easiest way is hang the spool on an axle, e.g., in a vise, and take off the bottom of the spool for spinning, and off the top of the spool for baitcaster. I always have my reel on rod in rod holder, run the line through the 2 closest guides, and also run the line through phone book with weight for adjustable tension.

I have fished 2-oz spider weights + meat with 7'6" inshore rod and 8'6" steelhead rod, but not on the east coast. In general, shorter rods are better for throwing lures in the surf. I'm not familiar with the Daiwa rod, but the rod I would take for this chore is 11' Tsunami Airwave Elite 1102H. Between the 2 rods you listed, I would choose the 10' for 4 oz spider weights + meat. However, if you foresee using the rod later for throwing lures in the surf, the 9' rod would be more desirable there, and could get the surf-bait job done, also.

@jdr99a The TFO Traveler is a good rod. I snagged the Cabelas version built on the same blank, closing out for $57. It's normally in my kayak bow hold (along with a TackleDirect Silver Hook spinning rod), and it finished a great long-weekend trip for me when a redfish and I together broke my first 13Fishing Omen Green on a surface snag and high-stick set at my feet. @new2BC4bass - it wasn't too sad - like I said, finished a great weekend. When I called 13Fishing asking about their discount replacement, told them my story - my fault, bad reaction, right when the redfish exploded. They said fishing break is warranty. I cut out the rod label section and mailed it in, had a new rod in 10 days.

What's dig?

I fished 25 years on my BB-1NG, and another on my BB-25SW btw @Eric 26 - these are the same shape as @JediAmoeba's BB-1N @DaveT63 Shimano-built Lew's was BB-1L (and -LM - the first Lew's I bought for my dad) I can go older on the 304 This is 4th model CAP, 1949

Never keep anything in vehicle. But I have fly rod, stream trout (endemic bass), and 5-pc bass rod that fit in a bike half-frame bag. Um, of course they're all Japanese the big front bag fits wading boots....or, a 15-l ice mule and a 6-pack

You should Always use manual bail technique with braid. You should always use it anyway, but is Essential with braid. Good ball bearing line roller is essential with braid. It's also a good idea to always fish a micro swivel on spinning tackle. Braided line in the past decade advanced with better fibers, weave, and FEP (teflon) coatings. Sufix 832 is a big step over older braid. Japan braids made a bigger step in 2018, doubling braid strength at the same diameter, and new coatings are also improving. You have a neighbor that sells very good braid - try Florida Fishing Products.

I can think of 7 niches where I can make do with only one rod, but it's a different rod for each of those niches. And only one of those niches where more than one rod is a chore. Normal kayak drill is 3 rods to have the different presentations handy and correctly matched. Shore fishing this coming weekend, I will have 6 rigged rods handy for change-up.

You could be right - maybe I've been reading google-translated Japanese for too long.

I think the OP's question is more about aspiration than possession. It deserves better than pragmatic answers. Something along the lines of function and form complimenting each other in a way that exceeds their sum. If you have something like that, or simply dream about it, it belongs here. Photos make it better for the rest of us. (my surf lure reel, built around a hens' teeth barstock frame)

While I prefer fishing braid, I always set up my mag brakes casting bulk mono, or more often, 6-lb YZH, which is thick line (and IGFA-rated 11.9-lb breaking strength). Though they may list it lower, a 2-mm-deep spool even on compact frame will give you working capacity with 5-lb Ultragreen mono. This reel, 30-mm dia, 2-mm deep, was casting 2 g to 100' w/ 5-lb UG - that was on a 5'4" rod - and couldn't see bottom. 5-mm-deep spools will let you fish 12-lb mono/fluoro.