Deephaven

I use a 7'10" MHF for spinnerbaits. Anything up to 8' ought to be fine, but at least over 7'.

Overloading as in puts too much bend in the rod for the rod to recover during the cast. You aren't going to stress fracture the rod unless you take it too far, but that is even easier to do with a fish on. No way I'd fish a 1/2 oz spinnerbait on a medium rod...or even a 3/8 oz for that matter. One "could" but it isn't the right tool for the job.

Some great ideas here. Thank you all. After changing my search terms to match what you all shared I found these: Which when drilled out fit my cables tight enough to be mostly waterproof, but still allowing it to come out vertically. And I realize I will get some water in during a monsoon, but it isn't anything a little caulk won't fix once I am sure that I have the wiring finalized. Between the new mounts and the upgrade seadek pad under them I think it turned out great.

I would go 6'6" ...or should I say I did for both my boys. They are 10 and 12 now and 7' rods for casting are tough.

DC reels are at their best throwing sails in the wind. Ie, spinner baits and such. For the rest I don't see the logic in paying for them. For my spinner bait rod though the met DC is heaven. I too would recommend a MH. For only a couple techniques I go lighter.

A frog...but sadly not near where I live

I abhor mowing. I would WAY, WAY rather blow snow. I hate mowing enough that I got rid of all the grass in my yard. Woods and landscape ftw.

St Croix SC5 MHF blank built out to 7'10"

I ordered some Garmin grommets. Should be here tomorrow. Hope they work ok. If not I will order something else.

While it looks great in the pictures, it looks even better in person. Keep up the great work Ken. The finish line is in sight!

Trolling plate and bags then depending of course on the speed you are trying to achieve.

Trolling bags will make it trollable depending on which one, but generally a kicker is better for that. Big motors usually push too much prop to be good for trolling.

Thanks. Those have all helped improve my searching!

Wondering what you all would recommend for keeping the wiring to my graphs clean. My boat came with some plastic right angle grommets, but once I added the networking wires for the front of the boat and a back up transducer wire they didn't fit anymore. My fix since the hole was there was to just wrap the wires and fill the hole. The Ram mounts were in the wrong position and not capable of holding 12's and allowing adjustment so I am replacing them with some Nerka mounts. Just about to drill the holes for the mounts, but would like a nicer way of making sure the wires stay clean. I couldn't handle the cracked black plastic mat, so I am open to about anything. Got all the rubber and glue off and filled the holes to start fresh. New seadek like material from Amazon. Just need something now to keep the wiring clean as well.

I have an FS904 IMX built out to 7'10" for throwing frogs. Comparing it to my 844C GLX it is a pool cue. Killer for pulling stuff out of the monster slop, but too much rod for a generally purpose rod IMO. It is very possible the 904C is completely different as mine is an FS and now 12 years old or so.

Started as a small hardware store in Moorhead, MN (read Fargo, ND) and then adding sporting goods. I grew up with the family and went to the same church. Biased to shop there for that reason, but it is a great store.

Although if it is on topic responding in an old thread can add to the discussion.

Can look at it the other way. In a solo boat I can usually do a 180 with 2-3 paddle strokes. This also means every 2-3 I could correct the wrong rotation. Current and wind of course can make it more, but nonetheless it gives an idea of the dexterity of paddling

St Croix SC5 MHF blank built to 7'10". My favorite all around rod. Makes me not pick up my 844s as much as I used to...although that'd be my 2nd pick.

I'd focus on paddling dexterity. I have a Eugene Jensen 18'6" canoe that has no keel whatsoever. I have zero problems keeping it straight even with just my 10 year old in the front. I've paddled thousands of miles though so my technique is solid. I'd suggest having you and your paddler only paddle each one side. Being in the back pick your strong side and don't switch. Feel what the boat does and counter act it and if it over rotates use your paddle as a rudder at the end of each stroke. It is really hard to learn if you aren't paddling at a consistent pace and always the same. Beginners want to constantly switch which will greatly slow your learning curve. Paddle on one side until you are physically unable to continue on that side and then switch.

20lb braid, I can't stand stiff lines with poppers.

Until you make the superman cast trying for world record distance and botch it resulting in a monster blow up. That now could be hours or years depending on the user. I'm usually good for one or two monstrously stupid moments a year.

My neighbor didn't prep right and his didn't last. Curious what you choose as I need to do mine although getting everything out is going to be a *****.

Ha, I was going to ask if part of a stick was still considered a stick. As for things that have never worked for me, I've never caught one on a live bluegill....but I've never tried. Not legal here.

I could make it worse too. I grabbed my boat from the farm on Easter...and put the snowmobiles away. That normally brings endless winter.