E-rude dude

The fishing Gods have spoken you must go fishing immediately

In the water? Its a little funny

Throw a red/orange colored lipless crank bait. When the fins turn orange. Or a Texas rigged dark colored salamander bait. ?

Bust Out Another Thousand There is no pain money can’t cure. Of course assuming you have the money.?

All good advice here. Only thing I can add is when long distance/deep SB or CB fishing, remember the bait is moving faster as it gets closer to you because the spool has more line on it. Try reeling slightly faster at first and slowing as it approaches you.

Zona always says I spend more time looking than actually fishing. I need to learn this too.?

https://www.mafiaoutdoors.com/products/blade-coffin https://www.mafiaoutdoors.com/products/blade-coffin-replacement-bags Pricey, yes. Holds every bladed jig without damaging it, yes. Their crank bait boxes with make you a believer too.

Rod tip down, under water if necessary. Keep reeling unless it pulls hard, then you let them have line, by using your thumb as drag. The important thing is never let it have any slack in line whatsoever. Biggest mistake you can make is stop reeling when they jump. But, everybody does it.

Stand in shallow water and sit in deeper water.

Former Tacoma and Tundra owner. For the price you pay for a Tacoma and the maintenance cost of a Toyota. You can buy a decent half ton truck. Ford, Chevy, Ram you pick. I used to pay $100 for Tundra oil changes because it was “special synthetic oil”. And everything on Toyota is “special synthetic” oil, grease, and gear boxes. First time I had my F150 done $55

Grandpa always said white caps mean take naps,

Dang it! The secrets out now?

Up north if water temp hits 50. Sometimes high 40’s if it stays that way at night. Northern bass don’t need much to get going after having a lid on their head all winter. They also spawn a lot longer than southern bass so pretty much up to July 4th is prime spawning time. Then its dock fishing time.

For your boat my list would be this. One good 8” or up sonar unit with SI, DI, 2D and mapping chip. Mount it on a pivotal mount so when you are fishing the bow it’s easy to turn towards you. Some of the Ram mounts come to mind. A trolling motor with spot lock. The type is your decision. You can go from low end Minn Kota power drive with no foot pedal up to $3000 TM. Let your budget be your guide. One Power Pole micro anchor. It uses are endless. Including not having to parallel a dock anymore. Nose in using the TM. Anchor pole down and tie off at bow. It goes without saying the best PFD you can afford.

Most guys are running the newer Spitfire x7 on that motor. Smaller diameter much stronger blades. Find a dealer that will let you try it out first since you can get 1/2 pitch sizes to really tune in the best overall performance. The 1/2 pitch sizes are professionally modified, so around $600. Best to know before you buy. https://www.boatpropellerwarehouse.com/category/8128/spitfire-x7 BUT FIRST Contact Tracker. Ask them what hole the factory mounted motors are being mounted on. Some dealers are clueless unfortunately. I’m guessing you need to go up at least on hole.

I’ve seen arguments for both sides that seemed to make good sense. I can only base my decision to use a stabilizer based on my life experience. For: 2000 Mercury 75 Hp 2 stroke blew 3 power heads Last one was installed by a Mercury warranty tech. He told me to fill up the tank with Stabil in it to break in the motor. Then bring it back for a carburetor adjustment. That motor is still running today. Against: 2014 Evinrude 115 HO Used Starbrite Startron in every tank. I switch under a recommendation from the dealer. In the fall I melted a piston completely. As I normally do I add the stabilizer to my Tundra over the winter since the extreme cold temps up here and my very low miles. Februaury my Tundra, you guessed it, melted a piston. I have used Stabil ever since with no issues to date. Anecdotal I know but it works for me.

Stabilizers only work if you use them for every single time you fill up. To my knowledge Stabil is the only one without alcohol in it. Something to consider if your forced to use ethanol like I am

I agree this is the exact behavior of a motor that thru a cylinder. First noticeable audible change in motor, actual change in motor power, very difficult to start afterwards. Mercury is a motor that will still run on a dead cylinder, for awhile, before it totally locks up.

This you won’t win if the wind can push you around. Learn to use it. A large drift sock that takes little room when folded can save a fishing trip from pack up and go home. Set up and drift past your spot. It’s more work but it can be very helpful.

What about pvc board instead of wood. Lighter, won’t rot, no need to paint or carpet.

This is the best for aluminum boats

Looks sea worthy might consider an extra battery since that is your only means of propulsion

What kind of boat. That’s the important question.

Sharp A micro jacker JP would make it the ultimate shallow water boat

So to turn it back to the OP’s question...... The one fish spot Do high end electronics play a role in finding these “mythical ?” locations that seem to only hold one fish or is lower end older electronics good enough to verify with a solid cast placement. What is better electronics that you can see them instantly or hard work that verifies it’s a one fish spot. For me I like the hunt, casting decisions based on experience guided by skill from endless hours of perfecting your cast placement. For me it’s the reward.