Tail Slap

I use it for wind on leaders (shock/top shot) for SW. IMO in that context it is superior to anything else. I use a piece of 6'-10' hb for a splice between main solid braid and the leader. There is no knot stronger or that slips thru rod and reel guides like a hb splice. It's reliable, consistent, 100% strength consistently, technically easy to do, smallest diameter, and works equally well with casting or spinning reels. Only mark against it, is it's comparatively time consuming and requires, at a minimum, a needle and not ideal for doing in the field. But prepping at home it's the way to go. I could see using it for lmb as you state. They are now making hb in much smaller diameter and strength. IIRC, I have seen even 20lb? The other downside to hb is cost vs solid of equal quality. What I have found interesting is how far you can still cast hb with a surf setup. You always read how it dramatically kills distance but I have seen 40/50lb hb cast way past 100yd, close to 200yd on a surf rig.

One nice thing about the uni or double uni, it makes a good line to line as well as line to tackle knot. Infact a uni with two pass thrus the tackle eye is one of the very strongest line to tackle knots. It's also a very easy knot to understand and visualize. It also makes a good sliding stopper knot and spool knot as well. This makes it one knot that can be used for almost everything sans a fixed loop knot. The FG is just a pain with small line and leader. The SC would be my choice for that type of knot with smaller line. I rarely even use the fg on my heavy SW bait rigs. There using a wind on leader be it shock or top shot I use a section of hollow braid to make a splice which is infinitely more reliable consistent and stronger than any knot. Just not something you do in the field but technically easy to do.

Correct only comes in the one gear ratio...8.5:1

Just checked mine (SW) it has it. No reason you could not swap a G spool into an HD either way. If the HD magZ has a metal ring I would think Daiwa tech had a reason for it in the magZ boost spool. It's not like it was a cost benefit. I do not have an HD yet so does the magZ B spool shaft have the groove and metal ring or no groove at all?

Yes $38 from Plat. Seems like a no-brainer if at the very least as a backup. It also gives you the ability to change gear ratios if you find the need. The boost spools are a bit rich but have already come down a bit. There are so many other aftermarket and oem 34mm spools in about every config possible.

I tend to use leader sans heavy cover. I run almost exclusively braid on all my reels. I do a mix of FW & SW so abrasion resistance is a focus on the latter. For knots like the FG SC PR knots where the braid turns work down and embed the mono/fluoro leader, rather than the braid locking off on itself at a focus point, it's strongest with the leader being larger diameter (not greater strength) than the mainline braid. As most all USDM lines: braid, mono, and fluoro are underrated, those knots, if properly tied, will usually hold to the lines listed strength rating (vs higher actual). I too like to use a drop of super glue smeared over the the knot ends.

Go on any other forum where the new jpn zillions are the topic and overwhelmingly you read how tight the tolerences are and how freaky smooth they are. Fact is, Daiwa hit this one out of the park. They got it all right just as @bulldog1935pointed out in detail. He is correct I am picking up at least two more. Probably 2 HDs and will buy a SV boost spool for one as I like the brass gears and larger handle but want the sv spool. The Silver Wolf is amazingly tight tolerance and the brake control wheel is very tactile. Similar to how a well a top tier tactical scopes turrets are. It's firm clicks with no play. No way even with gloves you could accidentally bump the setting. There is no human noticeable tolerance in the handle shaft. None. These really do feel the time was taken to match fit parts for best tolerence. Without it you woukd certainly find examples with tolerence stacking. You can even pickup zpi or bearing from hedgehog for the worm gear. Add two to the handle. If you want all bearings. That puts it at 14+1. Simply put you have to look really hard to find things not to like in terms of design build quality performance. The 34mm spool is the cherry on top. You can literally tune the cast on this for any possible setup. Further you have parts compatibility between all versions. Jpn Zillion G, Zillion HD, Zillion Silver Wolf, USDM Zillion Tw. Then finally there is the price point. Name one reel in this build quality that even comes close to the prices we are able to get these from the JPM.

IMO unless weight is a major factor I would recommend choosing the Stradic FL. After my first one I picked up a few more in other sizes.

SCIV is a carbon fiber which they have been using for a while. They call it a high-moduls high strain graphite fiber with carbon matte scrim The + is the additive of combining high strength s class fiber glass into the SCIV in a specific way. It's why I believe you see it spoken of as Hybrid mix. This page at least gives a general idea https://stcroixrods.com/pages/materials I am sure someone knows better than I the full technicals on it all. Here is info on S-glass fibers (e-glass is electrical fiber glass) S-glass is a high performance glass fiber, distinguished from E-glass primarily by its higher silica content. S-glass typically contains the oxides of silicon, aluminum, and magnesium with the following mechanical properties: Density: 2.53 g/cm3 (157.9 lb/ft3) Tensile strength: 4,600 MPa (670 ksi) Modulus of elasticity: 89 GPa (12,910 ksi) Percent elongation: 5.2 Compared to E-glass, S-fiberglass offers much higher tensile strength and elastic modulus as well as about 10% greater stiffness. Other key characteristics include excellent temperature resistance, good moisture resistance, and long fatigue and shelf lives. These qualities make it suitable for use in demanding applications. For example, it is commonly used in the aerospace industry for cargo liners, gaskets, and other interior components. Hope this helps some what

I agree one of the new Zillions G, HD, or Silver Wolf PE. I have the Silver Wolf and will be pickup up a HD version as well. Al9ng with my 18 Zillion TW HD covers quite a bit .

Correct. The faster and thus greater the angle of the line on the spool less chance of the thin braid digging in.

No worries. I actually did the same thing look after your first post about price. I wanted to confirm before posting. I saw $209 and was amazed, then I saw it was the smaller one too. I think the tranx is a fine low pro and likely for lmb swimbaits will work well. It's when you compare it with heavier use you can see the difference in strength. It's very much like comparing the old Calcutta TE to the Conquest. It's those micro gears that give that awesome buttery smooth feel to the Conquest. There is no free lunch when you get to the extremes in gear tooth design. IMO the path Diawa took with their hyperdigi tooth geometry was the better balance. I think this maybe but one reason why the tranx 500 was never updated to this gear design. It was built from the ground up with strength and durability as the focus. If I was to choose for freshwater to use as it comes from Daiwa between the 21 Lexa TW vs the 21 Tatula, I would choose the latter as it has the hyperdigi bronze main with SS pinion. The Lexa is just the older digi cut. I am not sure but I think you could possible swap gears if you wanted the hyper cut. If you wanted the CRRB bearings. If you wanted the most durable then definately go with the Lexa HD with all SS gear set. This is especially true if you plan sw use as this reel has proven itself in that enviornment with standard maintenance. Baitcasters are so much easier to do maintenance on that spinning reels. (Just an FYI, know in the HD line that 400 is a much bigger reel. It's a full 6oz IIRC more than the HD 300. In low pros that's a huge jump in weight and size. Make sure you need that much line cap and strength to pay that weight size penalty. Can not see ever needing more than the 300 for FW outside a dedicated muskie reel throwing double 10s etc. Even then plenty use the 300 with no issues) Did I just see a few days ago Shimano is releasing a new Curado 300? Thought I saw it plus a couple new spinning reels. A new Saragosa SW BFC A for billfish and a new line Miravel between the Ulterga and NASCI. I think the Curado was actually a 200dc so never mind on that one for this thread but still should be of general interest.

I know of no other LoPro of similar size that has the strength and durability of the Lexa HD line. The abuse I have seen a 300HD take was staggering. Further I would choose a 21 Lexa TW / 21 Tats over a tranx (not counting the 500.) As you can get a 21 Tat 300 for just under $220 from Digitaka not sure where a USDM Tranx can be found for that price. If you want to read a personal not pro staff review of a tranx 300. SOL forum has a thread spanning yrs of this abusive review. "Daiwa Lexa HD 300 and 400 size low profile reel review" Just ignore the 3 members that had a ticking match in the thread. They confused things by injecting opinions of a much older ver of the Lexa in it. The things Sudsy put that reel thru. Over yrs of use/abuse I think the only thing done infrequently was grease added to gear and oil to spool bearings. Come to think about it just do a search for posts by Sudsy in that thread as its splut up so much over 20 pages.

As @bulldog1935 mentioned any of the shimanos based off the 18 Stella fj is one of your best choices. Of those I would have to say the Stradic FL line is the best buy over all. I have 3 of these reels. Parts interchange between all the various models barring a few parts. You can swap all the spools in the same spool group. You can upgrade to all the bearings found in the Stella version. The Stradic FL is a very solid reel straight out of the box. Add in the JDM versions gives access to numerous gear ratio ipt combinations not available in the USDM. I run braid on all of mine from 1000 to 3000 series.

Yes try 10lb. Braid has no stretch so it will transfer ever vibration to the rod and to you. If you need/want a bit of stretch or more stealth for clear water add a fluoro or mono leader. For now just tie a uni to uni 5-10 wrap.

18 Zillion TW HD 1520 Magforce 21 Tatula TW 300 Magforce 21 Lexa TW 300 Magforce Luna TD 253/300 Magforce Z 18 RYOGA 1520 Magforce Z If you are looking for a workhorse that will stay smooth even with heavy use but do not care about every high tech hyper digi this and that I would look at the Luna 253 or 300. The best comparison is the old Calcultta TE. Compare to the new micro gears these plain bronze gears will be smoother after a yr of hard use that the current Calcutta Conquest. At least in my experience and few others that have had both (musky and SW anglers.) The same has been stated comparing the TE to the Conquest. The micros are smooth but those tiny teeth are not as tough as the standard teeth of the old TE. If you want a lo pro the Lexa or Tatula TW 300 versions. Tge Lexa will have all crbb bearings loaded with grease for SW. If you want smoothest running they will need to be flushed and oiled. The Tatula also have the newest hyperdigi cut gear mesh vs the digi in the Lexa. They both have the same SS pinion dual bearing support and the brass main gear. They both run the fix inductor spool of the base magforce brake spool which works well with big wind resistant swimbaits. If you want a premium round baitcaster the Ryoga it's the same 1520 36mm size spool as the 18 Zillion TW HD but its magforce Z vs fixed inductor magforce. Personally there is a few design construction I wish were different on the ryoga especially for the $$$.

Rod: 13 Fish Omen Green OG2C68ML 6'8" Med Light Fast 1/8-1/2oz $100-$110 Reel: Daiwa BG 1500 $99 on Amazon The BH series is a size larger than current common sizes of other Daiwa Shimano reels. The 1500 is equal to a common 2500 size reel.

We're I see ul braids coming in to play is casting performance of ul lures as well as for the challenge of playing out fish. As an example, it takes far more skill to bring in a 3lb brown trout on pe# 0.15 (0.0026") 4lb avg line than pe#0.6 (0.0052") 12.6lb avg Same goes casting extreme ul lures. But yes they are an absolute PITA to tie knots with. Definitely want loud colors.

I try to follow: quality, performance, innovation, and durability where ever it leads. A brand is just that a name nothing more. It is the products they produce that give it a value. The products can always change for better or worse. No single brand has total dominance even in a single reel type category (spinning, conventional baitcaster lo pro etc...). Certain model lines absolutely. Beyond that, certainly not, unless emotion or extreme logistics is a major factor.

You really can not compare USDM line vs JDM line based on strength rating (lb/kg) as the former uses it as a marketing vehicle (with no standard whatsoever for fair comparison to any other manf lines) vs the latter as a accurate techincal spec based off a stardards association JAFTMA (Japan Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association) that further uses JAFS standards for Japanese fishing line size (diameter) . They report PE# size and MAX line strength lb/kg with average strength in doc. USDM has zero industry standards and openly engages in severely underrating it's line strengths and diameters. Making any use of those specs worthless in comparing to other manf lines. Just the way USDM prefers to function; marketing smoke and mirrors. 5lb PP is in reality 10lb+ line by JPN standards. It's why you see statements like this If your use to 15lb PP /Suffix 832 best understand your use to running actually 25lb line. JDM 5lb line is actually MAX 5lb average 4lb but thinner than US 5lb which is not only underrated but thicker as well.

Then it can be precision of mating surfaces, pitch, tolerences, material (alloy) coatings etc.

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By They actually profit from as it is today.

I run a two pass thru eye uni knot 5 wraps. Very quick and at least from my testing one of the strongest tackle connection knots. For straight braid I double the wraps. Makes a cleaner knot as well. Can be cut flush. I think 30lb fluoro or mono is great for abrasion and teeth. It's very popular for inland SW fishing as well. Things tend to be toothy and more sharp things to get cut off on.

Agreed. It's a bit more of a pain as it catches far more. I like the med micros on my ALX rods as a good balance.