Tail Slap

Yes on a recommedation from @bulldog1935 I picked up a N.S. Black Hole Rod from a ebay seller Chovin. It was the Taifun-s UL632 trout rod. I think it was mid $200s but had the quality and finish of easily a high $300s JPN rod. Very good quality finish. At 6'3" 2.8oz is a good ul weight. Very happy with it. I havevcaught numerous brook brown and rainbow trout. Largest being around 6½lbs. I can full vouch for @bulldog1935's recommendations.

One way to deal with line twist especially boating is on the way back in cut the lure and play 15-20 yd out behind the boat. The water resistance will straight the line out. Reel it in after a few mins under tension of your fingers and all should be well. As a habit, I always cut the leader off and replace each trip. Also make sure your line roller is kept well lubed and check the bearings for any corrosion. Spinners like meps, pather martin's, as well as spoons will cause increased line twist.

The 40 and 43 seem to swap fine on the shimanos. I think if you check schematics they run the same rotor and bail parts.

Here are all the different size spools that fit the 1000 or small shimano body size of the long stroke spool family of reels (spools with a 13.5mm Stroke and 40-43mm diameter). This includes 18 Stella FJ, 19 Stradic FL, 19 Vanquish, 20 Vanford F, and I think the 21 Sustain FL (please confirm last). You also have the aftermarket yumeya spools of same sizes. As can be seen there is certainly plenty of choices for spool size for these 1000 body reels. In fact I would say they have the most choice of any group of reels of one size body. I know of no other spinning reel that has the option of 6 different spool sizes for line capacity. 1000SSS : pe: 0.3-120, 0.4-90 Diameter : 40mm / Stroke: 13.5mm C2000SSS : pe: 0.3-140, 0.4-100 , 0.6-80 Diameter : 43mm / Stroke: 13.5mm 1000S : pe: 0.6-140, 0.8-100, 1-70 Diameter : 40mm / Stroke: 13.5mm C2000S : pe: 0.6-150, 0.8-110, 1-80 Diameter : 43mm / Stroke: 13.5mm C2500S : pe: 0.6-200, 0.8-150, 1-120 Diameter : 43mm / Stroke: 13.5mm 1000 : pe: 0.8-240, 1-190 Diameter : 40mm / Stroke: 13.5mm

The Tatula LT series is a lot of rod for the $. Very good sensitivity to feel bottom. It's a top pick for jigging in the surf for fluke along the east coast. The major focus on the rod for this is sensitivity to be able to feel that slight hit on bottom in that turning surf. It's recommemded only behind the Steez AGS for that specific task. There is a huge thread on Striper online about it "Shore Fluke - Proven Method" thinks its around 30+ pgs long. The BG reel is no more SW specific than any other reel with some seals. The Stradic FL by that standard is way more SW specific then and we know that's not the truth. Even more for the Vanford as it's mostly C4I+ which can not corrode. Personally spend less on that level of reel and a bit more on the rod. With that said those BGs take a serious beating and last and last. Just takes some common sense maintenence after SW use. Light flow freshwater rinse. Lube the line roller. Unless it takes a serious dunk that's about it until it needs to be cracked open to give the internals a once over.

Yes and it's an awesome frog rod IMO. It's also good for many other things. Super versatile probably ALX's most popluar and recommended rod. Issue for the Op is he cut the max length off at 7' not 7'2". He would rather be $150 with a max of $200. The TF is closer to $250. But it's a hell of a frog rod IMO from a great company. IMO it's just one of those rods that hits that universal sweet spot.

GetFishorDieTryin, When you say light line are you speaking braid? Mono? What pe# or lb?

I would think the JDM Zillion TW HD makes the most sense. Bronze gears, 100mm handle, larger knobs. Pickup a second spool and your covered for light thru heavy lures. Everything the USDM adds plus the longer handle and a nicer black paint job IMO.. As always, you can add an extra spool anytime...... it's still a bit less than the USDM version. Add 1 levelwind and 2 handle bearings and your at Steez level 12+1.

Just whatever you do don't try fishing with your wood...trust me.

My current UL rig is just a tad over 10oz using my Stradic FL with carbon handle and knob mounted to a UL 632 rod 3.19z. I can not fathom something 30% lighter given how light mine feels. The only thing I do not like about the 500 reels is you loose so many features of the 1000+ reels. Sacrifice I guess for weight is worth it. Best I could do is go to a 1k Vanford to get me to maybe 8.5-9 oz.

Given the choice between the two JDMs: Zillion SV TW and the Zillion TW HD as they are the same other than spool, alum gear on the JDM SV and silver paint vs black respectively and handles (HD has the longer 100mm vs 90mm on the SV). I would choose the HD and grab whatever 34mm spool you want for variety in cast perf. The price difference is made up by the brass gears alone longer handle, but add in the frankly better looking black paint, as person preference that may be. I guess you could compare the USA Zillion SV TW which has the brass gear and larger knobs but is made in Thailand vs Japan on the JDMs. I know it's not suppose to matter but people make it matter. You would get the warranty if that adds value for you. Can not see them ever offering the current 22 HD in US as it a duplicates the US SV here too closely. The HD designation only really works comparing the JDM ver and frankly just barely. Certainly nothing compared to my 18 Zillion TW HD 1520/36mm mag spool and 12+1with magsealed bearings. It is true HD. What they may do and would make sense following past Daiwa moves is release a 2023 Zillion TW HD USM same current 21-22 frame, bronze gears, 100mm handle large knobs, magsealed bearings and the alum drag star off the Zillion Silver Wolf Sv Tw PE Spl ver (soon to be released) maybe the faster level wind as well, MagZ-B spool. It's an easy model for them to make from the parts bin. Ideally I would want that but with a 36mm 1520 spool like my 18 but with MagV-B tech. In fact if they do not do it I may turn a Silver Wolf version into that sans the 36mm spool. Make a great inshore baitcaster to possibly rival the 19 morethan but that reel sure is slick smooth. Throw in an a single level wind bearing and 2 knob bearings and you have the Steez level reel in most everyway.

Hug him no matter what!!! Lol It's a very good setup for $ spent. Personally for finesse I prefer 1000 series spinners but 2500 works just fine. For light the Vanford 1000 would be a great choice in the same price range. Rod works for me in that $. I have caught slot reds on my 1k Stradic FL so no question these $ 1k's can handle LMB Broomstick, Is 2000 Tat Lt a 1k body with larger spool ? I thought it was. I did not realize how light they were.

I agree that would be my choice if it between the two Mets. Between the two choices of the Op the Met DC.

I live in the general area. You can have great SMB fishing on either forks of the Shenandoah river. Lots of trout streams and creeks ans small lakes (glorified ponds) N & S on I81 VA and WVa. Here is VA interactive trout map. Look at the right hand legend. Find Harrisonburg to orient on the map as you are very close. Many of these will have LMB etc as well. Right near you have Briery Branch Lake, Home Quarry Lake, Silver Lake, Slate Lick Lake, Elkhorn Lake, Braley Pond, North River, North Fork of the Shenandoah River.

Another thing is check with your credit card issuer. Some offer 1 time use credit card numbers that are linked to your main number so it can not be reused and no threat of stolen number. If they offer it as a free service it's all I would use for online use. Frankly there is no reason for the last 20yrs for CC access info to be so easily compromised. Certainly not today.

I find when a company gets elusive about country of origin there is a reason for it. Saying your bearings came from Japan USA Germany would be a selling point of quality from China not so much. When I see sourcing described as "around the world" I think looking for the lowest cost and countries like China and India come to mind. There is unfortunately a difference between terms used for marketing vs terms for official cert. Those using ABEC that are not USA assoc cert are likely using it as a marketing term to mean ABEC type or design. They are taking advantage of a industry buzz word. Tech if ABEC is trade marked they could not use it at least they would be open to litigation. Numerous China based companies across every industry have never allowed things like this to stop them.

Isn't the Daiwa post/shaft 0.5mm shorter at the base step and requires a spacer bushing if you use a knob made for the Shimano A; where the Shimano A just gets a thin shim washer at the base before the bearing? On the Stradic knobs the C3000 also has the paddle vs the standard on the 1000 and 2500.

Same is true of the FG knot. How it's finished can effect its break strength. Any knot where the braid cuts into itself is a weak point. I do not cinch down super hard on the alt half hitchs like I do on the main knot where you want that solid color change as it bites into the fluoro/mono leader. About the GT others have done lots of testing on it since the official testing. It was found to be stronger than the FG only when using line of a given thickness threshold. On thinner lines its weaker than a FG. It always amazes me how things like that effect strength or more correctly induce weakness. I do a knot based off the YUCATAN modded and then finished like an FG to give that same smooth ramp that seems to be holding very close to the FG and a good bit faster to tie and I am pretty good at the FG. I do modify it based on if the fluoro leader or braid mainline is the higher test. I find the pr is easiest to tie with larger diameter lines. I use tight bobbin tension as it seems to make the strongest knot but it's more difficult to get the good wraps with thin line. Hard to beat a uni-uni for easy and speed. I just add some xtra wraps to give more b friction of the braid. On windy rough water sure is easier than a fg.

Just cut it and use an fg knot with some opposing half hitchs to smooth out the back side of the knot making it smooth on both ends. It's a very small diameter knot and very strong. Stronger than a uni. Also at least all the newer reels I have are made for braid. No need for mono backing at all. At most throw a thin piece of tape on it for friction and just go straight braid. IMO backing should never make it off the spool in a cast.

@JS8588 Done a fair bit of catfishing. Enjoy it still to this day. Not to mention smoked cat is good eaten when done right. What type of catfish are in the waters you fish? What typical sizes? River or lake?

You are of course 100% correct. Even to this day I will grab some of my younger family members take them out in the Jon boat on the pond @the farm or the lake with nothing but a cane rods with some mono tied on and worms, corn, and grasshoppers for bait. We come back with a stringer full of crappie to fry up coated in beer batter and good memories of a great time. With that said,, because you can catch fish with a stick, string, and a sharpened bent piece of wire does not mean you can not appreciate using best or various levels of higher tech does it? Who on this forum uses only what is minimum needed to catch fish? Who needs 7 different rods with many anglers having multiples of these just to catch a dinky fish? Boxes full of reels, lines, a bazillion lures, $30k up bass boat, etc? No one. You could apply that to every part of modern life in this country. So is "all that just to catch fish" ?? Of course not but as I understood it, that was not the intended direction of the OPS question. I read it as a question asking about options and what was possible leaning toward the premium side of gear. His setup Daiwa Kage LT MQ 4000D-CXH mounted to a 7'6 Daiwa Ardito MH is certainly not a basic budget setup but a high end premium setup. His first listed option for line was also not budget. He asked about Tatsu which many would consider the highest end fluoro mainline sold in this country and one of the top fluoro mainline from the company most consider the tech leader in fluoro line development. At least to me these point to the direction the OP wanted to focus, which is high end premium gear. If he had asked about what no name line to get from Walmart for his $35 rod reel combo to catch catfish I would have offered very different options. I was simply giving him premium options in line with the quality he indicated by his choices outside the mainstream found locally in the USA that were still easily acquired online from numerous sources. Also was hopefully adding to the collective knowledge via my experiences, which I feel is one of the primary benefits to forums such as these.

If you really want to stay away from braid and want to give a high quality fluoro mainline a try, give Tatsu a go. I, personally, am sold on braid mainline for most all my fishing excluding my new fly fishing endeavor @bulldog1935 is patiently helping guide me. But if you want to try fluoro mainline, for catching Mr Wiskers, the only way your going to know how it works is to try it for yourself.. I do understand the sense that braid, especially these days, has so many superior qualities it can almost feel unfair. LOL It's very hard to beat a high quality braid to fluoro leader setup. It's the culmination of the industry's current line technology performance. But as its doubtful anyone on this forum is going hungry without their catch, if they even keep it (C&R), if you want try or even simply entertain the idea of using something different for experience sake why not?

Wanted to add that Tatsu is part of the R18 series. R18 limited is Tatsu as far as I know and according to multiple sources. You can get 2lb R18 but USA Tatsu stops at 4lb IIRC.

I have been bouncing my new premium fluoro obession on Bulldog1935. I started evaluating some of the various JDM Seaguars top end fluorocarbon. Was a bit on a pain getting accurate English translations. Many time the Aussie sites had the best info on them. Below are my research findings and opinions based on my experience. Others may differ. Seaguar unfortunately keeps its best lines out of the USA market. Another thing I found I had to watch out for is line rating vs diameter. USA destination packaging many times reduces its line rating for a given diameter so it fits with all the other underrated lines i.e. 10lb line that breaks at 22lbs etc. This is normally not the case when you order JDM packaged line. It's rated very close to actual. It can make a JDM line look weak until you check the diameter. Seaguar's top of the line premium general use fluorocarbon leader as I understand it is under the Grand Max line series. GrandMax FX Leader is their newest, replacing standard GrandMax, highest for diameter line and knot strength. Grand Max FX Shock Leader adds slightly more stretch to the leader. They also offer a tippet version Grand Max and GrandMax FX Tippet specifically for fly fishing. In main lines of couse we have the Tatsu main line they finally brought to USA. There JDM top of the line series is R18. It unlike Tatsu has its properties changed for target species specific as well as properties. They have a bass line, a sea bass line. More interesting is they have a R18 Hard line Here instead of their being a softer outer layer of the dual layer fluoro lines they use a hard outer layer. It requires specific knots but is more rigid and also abrasion resistant. For Salt water they have heavy duty fluoro leader line Big Game Premium MANYU it starts at 60lb and goes up to 220lb IIRC. It makes a great saltwater or toothy leader as well as a Shock leader for surf casting bait-n-wait. Has slightly lower strength /diameter ratio then R18 and GrandMax but has more stretch and higher abrasion resistance. Just remember if you order these JDMs there lb/kg rating is likely close or closer to its rating. No 15lb breaking at almost 25-28lbs type of stuff. IMO for mainline Tatsu is really good and can be sourced domestically. But for leader I have been very impressed by the GrandMax FX and Shock leader versions. They are not cheap but 50-100m using in 2-3' sections can last a good bit. I want to try the R18 Hard mainline version to see how it acts. It's suppose to have the most sensitivity, least stretch, maximum strength and abrasion resistance. I want to see how stiff it is. I use to think the only real difference in a certain series between leader and mainline was a increase in diameter for a given strength rating but same formula. After using some of these lines and reading the tech info on some of them I know this is not the case. At least not with these Seaguar lines. They really do seem to have different properties. I am switching over to Grand Max FX for my leader and will be using the MANYU line as my SW leader where I use thicker leader and my surf setup Shock leader. Been impressed with both of these. I will see if the bear out in the long term. I was super impressed by Daiwa Xbraid Grand when I first started using it. But dumped it after a season when I started having break offs for no apparent reason. I am not willing to keep loosing costly lures. Lesson learned..,take longer time before jumping in and swapping multiple reels over.

@bulldog1935 His paintings are excellent. Very talented guy. Hopefully he's a surgeon ss he has good hands. With all the talk and in depth reviews of the current reels, and it's engineered tech. It almost feels as a needed mandate to have a chance at catching decent numbers and quality of fish. Looking at that last link...you take a look at even a current fly reel let alone an old restored classic on a split cane rod hauling in plenty of very nice fish.Brings you back to how basic fishing can really be. Simplicity, elegance, and a organic warmth.