Functional

First 2 images im riding down the center of a arm that is about 300ish ft wide. What you see is elevation going up on both ends and I'm assuming getting too shallow to give decent readings at the far stretches. If I recall its only about 4-5ft deep off either shore line. The second 2 images the shore is on the right and I'm not sure what happens on the left for it to end abruptly like that. It should either continue to gradually get deeper or be flatish for the part I was at. Definitely not bank though.

I got my Force and electronics from Russell Marine Products. Easy to deal with and at the time had the best deal.

finally, I now have somwhere to hang the lures I'm not using when bank fishing. Now I dont have to carry a bag or put them on the ground. Bonus is they are fast to reach!

You can snag Lews Speed Spool LFS reels for like $80-90 if you search around. Probably my current favorite low cost reel.

yea, I have a feeling the ground was just really soft in the area at the other lake I was trying to scan. At 17FOW there I could only see out to the 40 mark before it was too dark to see anything. Next time I go I'll see if I can get a photo or screen shot to show the difference. I tried changing the frequency but at 800ish hrz the range cut down pretty far.

Do you have a budget? The victory is a very good rod but there are plenty of rods in a lower price point that will serve you quite well, especially as a "all purpose" rod. The victory Marshall is a 7'3" but a very good all around MH rod. If you want to step down a level the Mojo Bass does well and the 7'1" MH Fast would serve you well. For the cost I'd put my ARK Tharp rod against my Victory and not tell much of a difference. I have the Hammer but the tip is a bit too fast. The Money Maker at 7'3" MH F I believe would be a good all around fit.

So I got a chance to go out yesterday and water was like chocolate milk so I played with the sonar a lot. Here are some images, sorry for the glare, still learning how to take images to the SD card and upload them. I did notice my transducer seemed to be tilted up (back side towards sky) more than what I set it at so I lower it 2 clicks back to where I thought it was set. I think its possible the screw loosened up and when I'm on plane/WOT its causing the transducer to move adjustment. May look at tightening that up more, possible that effected the results today. These first 2 are at 12-14FOW and had a good return. Both of these are at a different part of the lake/river and deeper at 26FOW. Still a better return than what I was getting on my last trip but clearly darker. Settings were the same as the images above.

having progressively gotten more expensive kayaks trying to "level up" I'd advise against it. If you HAVE to try something cheap I'd say get the cheapest kayak with a padded seat you can on the used market because you will either hate it and want nothing to do with kayaks or youll want to sell it to upgrade. If you have the money and are serious about a kayak, get a decent one. If I had to give myself advise all over again it would be to absolutely get into a peddle kayak and one stable enough to stand/stretch/fish. Also, something to consider is how you can lay out your rods you arent fishing. I prefer kayaks that you can lay them flat on either side of the chair (crescent, wilderness recon, hobie to name a few) vs verticle in a crate or rod holders. I've almost sent a rod over too many times smacking them on a back cast. Paddle works until you fight a fish and she drags you into where you are trying to fish or there is more than a gentle breeze and you have to fight a paddle one handed and the fish with the other. not saying its the best BUT, the Wilderness Recon can be bought with or without the peddle drive and upgraded later. Also has a very comfortable chair, huge hatch, horizontal rod storage, paddle storage and is incredibly stable. So if you have to save some money for budget reasons this might be a way to not limit yourself. I enjoyed mine before I sold it for unrelated reasons.

There is a really mint 2018 triton trx179 with ultra 10s front and rear with panoptics for like 28000. Has a really narrow beam though at 91" compared to Rangers z185 at like 96". Not sure it's worth it. Ranger z185/518/519 Skeeter zx150/200 Nitro z18/z19 Crestliner mx19 Seems to be top of my list right now.

What's everyone use to hunt these suckers down? I've been reading about people driving a few hundred miles for good deals but curious how they find them. Good maps search dealers? Boat trader? Boats.com? FB market place?

I do, garmin force. Works great when setting a line to follow on the chart or clicking SL but if I'm manually working my way in any wind beyond a gentle breeze I need to be working it constantly. Even SL when working a wind blown side my aft come around which a Power pole would be great for but the boat can't support that. Even my 4 batteries I had to put one in the port bow storage because the bilge can only support 3 before I need to swap the gas tank out. I really do need a new boat the more I'm working through this process, just going to be a decision between AL and glass and which fits my preferences I've mentioned better. @ChrisD46 I looked at the avx 1880/1980 and they are on the list again, review I saw it seems most of the complaints were addressed since. Only thing I can't confirm was seeing people complaining the paint is very fragile on the hull.

This might be a generational thing but for me the minute I can retire with the financial goals I set I'm gone. I'll give my best while I'm there but that's all, I'll be replaced in weeks and life will move on. Losing any more time spending it with family and doing the things I enjoy are top priority and while I enjoy work I do it to be able to enjoy the time I do have off the best I can. Fortunately I've put myself in position when I turn 60 my house is paid off and I get full retirement/health benefits from the state. That will be it for me.

I'm so glad this thread exists. I've don't nothing but aggressively hop a jig based on how I saw them fleeing me when I used to catch them. Going to try dragging them and shaking now. Maybe I can learn a jig lol.

Well I think I've narrowed down my aluminum option at least. Decided if I'm sticking AL I want shallow anchors to take care of some of my drift issues. I also agree with them being less fragile IF I hit something, always been a nice comfort in my tracker. Crestliner MX: love the huge casting deck, live well, bilge size/ access and weight rivals the glass boats at the same size. Wanted a layout with rod storage on port and/or starboard instead of center. I'll be in and out of tackle more than rod lockers in any given trip and the size of the deck I could keep nearly all my rods out and still have room. Still eyeing glass though. Might just be they look more sleek but I'm always drawn to them. In general though I've looked at thousands of pictures and reviews and they all do sit lower in the front which should help. I also see they have wider decks up front than AL (aside from crestliner) and feeling a little cramped on my tracker that's something I do want in my next boat. I think it will come down to what boat has the best price and meets the most criteria. - decent bilge access with room for at least 4 batteries -rod storage not in center - decent sized live well for 2 anglers -max hp for the boat (prefer merc or yamaha) -prefer 18/19ft but would consider a 20' for the right deal. - drainage in the compartments if water gets in. (I think vexus or xpress had none and was an issue for someone) - not majority red color.... this one is just personal lol. Edit: the falcon f185/195 is on the short list. Really nice laid out boat and some of the best rear access I've seen. Easily fit 4 batteries.

This might come off as insensitive....but the indian tribes and US situations always fascinated me. Not so much from the history (although that is interesting as well) but from how the interaction is now. All across the world countries/tribes/lands/clans/etc. have been conquered and you dont see the special treatments the US provides the indian tribes. If there are I'd love to know and look it up truly. Yes, settlers came over to a place that was inhabited but they were in my view conquered. Call it "took their land" or whatever but thats really what happened, they were conquered. All of these provisions and half measures the government gives the indians and vice versa almost seem like poking a dying animal and prolonging its death simply so people cant say "you killed it". Either end it and cut the half measures and have them assimilate or give them a swath of land and let them do what they please with no support/involvement from the US gov. In this particular case it seems like one of the appeasements will have a much larger effect on natural resources. I have nothing against indians personally, every one who lives on a reservation or thats their heritage has been cool for the most part. Just seems like the US trying to not look like they did something thats not truely benefiting them or in this case the citizens. Just my cheap thoughts. Feel free to delete this post or educate me because this is hard for me to grasp.

yea those vexus 1880+ hulls are WAY different than the pad hulls of ranger or any normal tin boat like my tacker or normal ranger. Express 18/19 and Vexus 1880/1980 were top of my list if I was to go back with a Tin boat. I'm less concerned about operating costs (fuel to drive/trailer) so we can disregard that. The lakes I fish arent huge, 20K acers is my local max and the rest are more 4-12k ballpark. Will have the occasional visit to some of the larger more "famous" lakes maybe once or twice a year. Home lakes dont get nuts, I'd say the biggest chop comes from the wake boats and I certainly get beat up in my Tracker, theres no WOT during the weekend when making runs. I do keep my OB down until I get into skinny waters and understand with that comes more drift but its certainly excessive in my opinion. Front included, if I'm off the TM for more than a few seconds I'm getting blown into my fishing area or objects. I understand boat position is a big part of fishing but its hard when 75% of your concentration is making sure you arent blown too far off track. I'd intended to do power poles until I learned tracker doesnt support that for the transom. While I believe my hull warranty is out (need to read up more) I'm not willing to take that risk and have to pay for a transom fix when I could have gotten a more appropriate boat with that money. Are there any particular brands that have a design that drifts less in the glass world? Guessing by the replies the larger of heavier of equal size will have the least but My tracker is the fanciest boat I've ever fished out of so I have no clue with these glass boats.

From the sound of it I think he already has a custom 2 piece. using the front passenger floor board is your best bet, I've also moved the passenger seat up and been able to squeeze a 7' rod in the back seat. Butt where I moved the seat up and tip across the car to the back. You could also opt for a shorter rod (6'8, 6'10). If you want to get bold you can get a roof rack mounted and mount a big PVC pipe ontop to store whatever length you want like they have on some kayak trailers.

Life things changed, I'm able to fish more and enjoy it more (thank you modern medicine). I know I asked about peddle kayak vs a boat a few months ago but the seasons of life are tempting me towards a slightly more refined/bigger boat. Unless a killer deal comes around I likely wouldnt make a move for a few months if not the end of the year. Just trying to get my information in order and target my searches more. My question is for those who have fished out of glass and alumimum bass boats (for reference im currently in a 2013 Tracker 175 txw) how was the experience when dealing with wind. I feel like my Tracker gets blown around fairly easily when trolling around and it seems like the glass boats I see dont get effected as much if at all. Will the glass always be less effected vs an equal size alumimum? Does a 19/20/21 ft aluminum not really have this same issue? Do specific brands of boat (glass or alum) handle this issue better than the other? If what I'm thinking is right, is it because a fiberglass has more draft and therefore more drag in the water to be effected less?

I keep it simple. If I'm cold when I get on the water I start with main lake points (entrances to coves) and work my way into the furthest back pockets until I can get bites. If I'm comfortable or warm I start at the back of the pockets and work my way out. Chatterbait along/in the edges of any grass that looks new or starting to turn green. Spinnerbait into any laydowns Swimbait (most recently anyway) into heavy grass or if its super sunny and decently clear water. I've started to throw a light Trig (1/4oz) beavertail after I stop getting bites on any of the top 3 before moving on. Process has worked well for me this year than any of my other processes the past few years. May or may not work for you. One spot thats been killing it for me consistently is if you have a skinny or peninsula type point, fishing the calm side of the point. Been seeing them stack up there I'm assuming waiting for forage to move past the point following the wind. Not sure if this is common but its new knowledge for me. Always fished the wind blown pockets but this has been very productive for me this year.

Ive had a lot of poor quality cork come apart on me. Havent had that issue with any EVA yet but also havent owned them as long. That said I still highly prefer a quality cork over anything else in the reel seat area, I could care less what is on the butt of the rod.

I mean....you could have used it for a heavy line reel instead of trashing it.

I feel like I did but can't recall for sure. I'll be sure to try next time I'm in that lake. As for bottom composition I couldn't say either. I fished mostly shallow and was just cruising around trying to get the lay of the land on a new lake. Could be it and never popped into my head.

for years my father drove me around and I got to just fish and have a good time. Now when I take him I feel bad having the good space all the time and offer it to him but all I get is "HELL NO! I've waited years to just sit here and peacefully fish!" Now I just do it for fun, dreading the day I cant make that offer. Its rare I'm ever in the back but when I am I try and throw the opposite of what the bow is doing. Top, im under water, if hes crawing on the bottom I'm with a spinner or top water, hes throwing spinner I'm crawling bottom. Once we find something that hits I'll at least offer it in a different flavor or a different sparkle. Makes it easy because you can cross lines to some extent doing that. and your available space to both is opened up. The family I fish with dont mind it, I dont think I'd try it with a stranger/semi-stranger fishing a tournament.

Been noticing this and playing with settings to try and figure it out. I was going about 4-6mph with SI in 17FOW and noticed I could see maybe 50 ft out each side and then it got too dark to see. Tried playing with contrast and brightness and got maybe a few extra feet once both were cranked up to max. Got down to 5 FOW and I could see 100-120ft out with my original settings (around 50% contrast and 70ish% brightness). Is there something I'm missing? All imaging was run in the 1000kHz. Didnt think 17 fow was deep enough to cut image down to 50ft at 1000khz.

I usually just throw a spinner in white, everything else is painful to fish. Like mentioned go close to the shore/ cover and if you can find any feeder creeks where fresh water is flowing in. I'll go fresh clear water spots first and then after that work my way out from them hitting close to shore and cover. If you aren't hitting cover you aren't close enough.