casts_by_fly

You also need the helix to Ethernet adapter to connect the head unit to the mega live transducer. I don’t have the part number handy but they are about $25-35

For a group 27 agm or bigger definitely a genius 10.

Do you mean 3700 sized boxes with 4 compartments or a box/bag that holds 4 3700 sized boxes?

SV spools are shallow in the first place. 70 sized spools are small also. I don’t know what line you were using, but jdm reels usually use jdm line diameters also for mono so something like sunline supernatural which is thin for a rating. If you had big game on there then it would be more like 50 yards of 12# big game. enjoy!

you might find it in a hardware store in the pain aisle.

For $250 I would go straight to a Falcon Cara and be done with it. Pick your poison for length and action based on usage.

Very few people want a round reel. I know I certainly don't. They don't fit my hand well and I don't like the look of them. I have a couple downstairs and have no intention to use them. In that case, why would a mannufacturer put any R&D money or marketing support behind it? Its not worth their time and probably not on their long term strategy.

Thinking about this a little more this morning, the pdf you put up has 360 shown, but not Live. Its mostly not an issue except that live imaging use an ethernet connection while 360 uses a transducer connection. I can't tell what cables he left up front, but if there is an ethernet cable going from the hub to the front, then that's what you'll want to route your live transducer through. Then the Ultrex will go to the back of the 12" Helix. That would actually make for a pretty clean setup overall and eliminate one of the Helix ethernet cable adapters.

For the helix head units you need the helix cable adapter to get the hexagonal Ethernet cables to work. He might have left those. You’ll know when you compare the plugs to the head unit plugs. if the ultrex has a sonar you might as well connect it. No harm in hooking it up. You might not use it but then you might. The helix up front will have the preset buttons. I’d have one for live, one for live plus mapping (explained below), and then set the third for di/2d split. Since you’re networking you could even put the trolling motor transducer on the console screen for your passenger while you have live showing up front. networking will be nice. You can cruise with side imaging and mark rock piles, brush piles, etc. Then with live plus mapping up front you can see your marks on the map. Put on casting rings at 50’ or so and set your live imaging at 75’. Then you can approach your marks, stop when you hit a casting ring, and pick apart the pile with live imaging. assuming the helix 10 is a msi there is only one transducer. It’s one big long one that does both. The splitter is only if you want to add a high speed transducer for depth readings at full speed.

Goo gone should take the sticky off and then a wipe with alcohol to take the goo gone off.

some of the ultrex and (maybe) ulterra units have the jog feature built into the head unit. I don't recall off hand which though.

First, you'll need ones with an 'N' in the model name to network them together. Second, what imaging do you want for the rear unit? I assume side imaging (which will mean you get all of the other imaging also). Last, you'll want to pick a budget. You could go all in for apex or solix units or go to Helix units and get more screen real estate for the price. Touch screen is the first big difference, though the solix and apex units have more features and processing power on top. Based on your answers to the above, we can make some suggestions. If you want to stick with Helix units (that's probably where I'd go) then I'd probably go a 10" on the console and as big as you can afford up front. A 10" Mega SI G4N is probably right if you're only going to have one unit and you're using mostly for SI. You can still split SI/mapping or SI/DI on 10" and have enough picture. A helix of that size should have 3 preset view buttons that you can set to the most used. I have a 9" of the same but I use it for everything on my kayak so one of the presets is live. For a console unit, I'd have SI, SI/DI/2D, and mapping as my three presets. For live imaging, the bigger the unit the better. The pros are going up to 24" but that's a lot. I can say that using a 9" screen that is at thigh height when I'm standing I can watch my baits and watch fish. If I am moving around and searching for fish/bait then I keep the range at 75'. Then when I am casting to fish I scale it to 50' for better screen real estate and more discrimination of the picture. With a 12" unit I wouldn't need to do that and it would be at 75'. With a 16" unit I'd leave it at 100' permanently. If you're just using the bow unit for live imaging, then you only need to buy a head unit only (CHO) model and it can be a DI or SI unit. That will save a couple hundred bucks vs buying one with a transducer. thanks rick

it depends on the rod. My 7' MH/MF is fairly soft. I spool with 30 lb 832 braid as my lipless rod and also throw crankbaits on that a bunch. If the rod has some give, then I wouldn't worry at all. A mono leader is helpful, but won't give you that much give.

I start around 55 or thereabouts. I should start sooner with a big buzzbait, but I don't. For me its a big walking bait first and foremost.

Congrats! the best way to call them in is to not use a call! Just be where they want to be.

im in an autopilot kayak so it comes built in.

If the water is stained or dirtier (1’ visibility or less) I’m not worried about fish seeing braid.

The FG is the strongest, smallest, and best. Its also trickier to tie and tie reliably/repeatably. The alberto is about 85% as good and far easier to tie. For me, if I'm tying at home to set up a rod then I'll go with the FG. if I have to tie it on the water I'm tying an alberto.

The bantam is a beautiful reel. Mine is on my big rod but it’s a great reel for what you mention. I haven’t checked jdm availability and price lately but last I looked they were sparse. In that case you could consider the Metanium also.

Alright, I guess I'll do the needful. What's his address? I have to go to wisconsin this weekend anyway. I was going to fly, but for a 'free' boat I guess I'll drive. The cheapest part of every dog is the day you pick it up. No matter what breed or how expensive it is. Also I'm picking one up Saturday.

Man, I need a brother in law like yours! I'd take a 16' lund being given to me in a heartbeat.

I find that if the fish are on a crankbait pattern, then you don't need a vast array of colors. I'm in a similar position as you. My water generally has 2-8' of visibility, so pretty clear, and lots of bluegill as forage. I settled on a set of DTs and OGs with basically the same colors going through it. In the 4-10 I've got something light for a shad pattern, a bluegill/pumpkinseed pattern, a chartreuse black back for lower visibility, and a craw of some type. If I think the fish are on a crankbait day, I'm not worried about having the right or wrong color.

I tend to fish moving baits towards cover of some type until I get a read on the fish for that day. If they aren't eating moving baits then that's my read that they are holding tight to something or offshore and I need to slow down and pick something apart. If I catch one from a piece of cover that looks like it will have more I'll fish it more. Usually a couple more casts with a moving bait and then throw something like a jig or texas rig in it. Then again, what do I know. I'm the guy that fish saturday for 9 hours, could show you tons of baitfish all over the lake on all of the different imaging, could see schools of bigger fish on side imaging (I don't believe they were bass), and only managed to catch two crappie in the process (albeit 15" fish that looked like bass on live imaging).

Well count this as a PSA to everyone else. Even after this thread I broke my own rules and got burnt for it. I went out Saturday and was on the water at 645am to cloudy drizzle and no windy. I was in full long sleeves and pants (rain gear) all day, but I decided I didn’t feel like wearing my gloves. And I didn’t feel like putting my contacts in so my polarized glasses stayed in the truck. And I had cleaned out the boat over the winter to replace the sunscreen that was in there with fresh stuff, but never put the fresh stuff in. And then of course I stayed WAAAAY later than planned and was out in it for 6 hours of beating sunshine, but since it was so windy I didn’t even notice. And now, 48+ hours later my face is on fire still and the backs of my hands are still bright pink.

that’s not what I took from him, so we’ll see what he actually meant. Parallel is not toward necessarily. Just parallel paths that could be 50’ apart.