Tatulatard

The sv reels are smaller and lighter. The sv spool is better a skipping. The 150 is a bigger but more solid feeling reel.

Take a look at the valkaryie rod on the tackle trap if you want a glass rod and like megabass rods. I want one so bad but they're $500 or $450 with discount code. Too rich for me.

It's how you palm the reel. With a normal grip of three fingers in front of the trigger and your pointer on the blank or wrapped around the front of the reel the old tatula palms pretty bad. If you tuck your pointer under the reel or palm with only 2 fingers in front of the trigger then they palm fine. I read about this back when I got my old type r in 2015 and made the change after getting my pointer finger rubbed raw from the magnetic adjustment dial. When they came out with the more narrow CT reels then that helped the issue.

Also how does the legend tournament glass cranking and legend glass crankbait have the compare in the 7'2" M powers? I woukd like a M powered glass rod that can reliably thrown down to a 1/4 oz with various1/4 hard baits and be my main Bomber 4a, OG Tiny 04 and 3/8 oz cranking stick. I like the colors better in the legend glass over the legend tournament glass.

But can it do finesse cranking? How well does it handle 5/16 oz? I mean actually handle that weight as opposed to just being within the rod ratings. I find many rods lower and upper ratings a bit optimistic. I'm in the market for a finesse cranker and like glass sticks.

Yup. I like my original type r and 150. They are big reels and that dial can irritate your hand when palming so thats something to be aware of. This used to be a big complaint of the tatulas when they 1st came. You can just adapt and be fine. I stated wrapping my pointer finger under the reel when palming with them and haven't had an issue since.

1/8 oz baits or 1/8 oz lead weights on plastics? How does it compare to the SV reels you had? Seems like a winner at that price.

Anyone have any feedback on the casting rods? They seem like a steal for the price but that little grip bait keeper location has me concerned. Not many reviews on them but they did mention the grip taking some getting used to. Looks like your hand would be halfway off the grip when casting.

Try a Daiwa or Shimano reel on it if you have one. That rods look like an ecs type seat and those don't like big low slung gear boxes on reels. Makes you pinch your fingers together when palming.

It's a generational thing but I never cease to be amused the there was a time when people called each other Dicks with a straight face or there was an out door chain that proudly called itself "Dicks". It'll be a sad day when the last Dick dies.

Use one of the many scents on the market. That petroleum like smell is actually the natural scent of plastisol. Scents are typically added to mask that foul smell and appeal to anglers more so than fish. This is why they are often scents and waft well in air and are in familiar scents like, coffee, garlic, fruits or anise. To attract anglers, hide plasitsol scent and give us a easily recognizable feature of the baits to attribute to their success if we have success ie: the "man I had a great day with the KVD caffeine shads" "that caffeine scent sure does work" instead of correctly associating the success with the caffeine shad just being an excellently designed bait with great action. Rant aside, just put whatever scent you want on from the dizzying array of scents on the market. They often have an oil in them that helps keep the baits lubricated and resistant to taking on memory when stored. I just use some Walmart Bang stuff I have and douse the baits with that when they appear dry or if they smell like a petroleum product.

There is a pic of that new one on another site with the regular alphas spool and the brake cup looks smaller. You think that means it will be less overbraked than the deep spool alphas? I like mine for skipping but the casting distance is pretty average for an sv reel. I was kind of expecting zillion performance but I got tatula sv like casting.

Magz is uses centrifugal weights to move the brake cup out to the magnets. It's a different animal from regular magnet brakes. It's more like a dual brake reel. Also the SV105 is an sv reel and those are also brake different from a lews magnet brake but are sort of similar is braking behavior. I could edge out my lews magnetic with my tatula sv on a long cast with a frog but neither are what I call long casting reels. Both would brake more than I want at the end of the cast when set up to not overrun early to mid cast. Not a big deal at all. Each tool has a place. I just fell for the "casts a mile" hype without actually looking into what that meant it what they were comparing it to. I should have kept it as a jig reel but got rid of it because I bought it for frogs and was upset with it. I still have the sv because I knew what I was getting and it's casting matched my expectations. I just didn't do my homework. I've had other magnet reels with that same type of button magnets and flat side of the spool brake and just thought that the lews might be different based on the reviews. Lesson learned. When I want a distance reel, just get a centrifugal or magz reel.

It's gets good enough distance but doesn't live up to all the hype I read about it "casting a mile". When spooled with 65 lb power pro i couldn't empty the spool with a frog but I can with my fuego and tatula elite. The casting felt real similar to my black max but maybe a bit better. The reel test guy also didn't think it casted all that far either but it was close to the fuego which I can cast noticeably further. It did good side arm casting and turning the brakes down when I was throwing jigs from the boat but bank fishing frogs on long casts I felt really underwhelmed with it especially compared to the old one with the dual brake that I liked. It felt like a step backwards in casting performance but a step forward in size. Just not for me I guess.

I liked the sized of the LFS but didn't like how choked off the casting was being a magnetic only reel so I sold it. My next lews will be the TP with that swing arm centrifugal brake. That looks promising.

Worse. You want some line with some weight to it. Flouro is good. Weighted sinking braids in 30+ are also good. You can also apply thumb pressure to try spool to keep the slack line under control.

Weak clutch spring or it came off from frame flexing. You can try lifting the thumb bar with your thumb tip to move the clutch since it is no longer a spring returned clutch.

I was going to either gat that one or the MH of chatterbaits from the tackle trap but realized I don't throw them enough to justify a $450 rod. They look and sound amazing though. Shorter the handle and roll cast then lengthen it and bomb cast. There is a big thread on another forum about these I have been reading. Bait monkey almost got me.

Which valkyrie is that?

Bantam. Its a heavier and more solid reel.

A BFS casting rod maybe? Not sure if they fit those blanks in spinning trim.

I recommend the tatula elite. If you don't want to spend $250 then get one for $180 like I did from that chinease amazon like site. Never mind you went with the lews TP which is also another good reel I hear. That light weight ivcb like spool looks promising.

I want to try a lews reel and this, comically named "quiet cast" centrifugal brake has caught my interest. What is the best time and place to get one of these for as close to $100 as possible? I'm in no hurry. I can wait months until a seasonal sale. Also @newapti5 nailed it on the 2nd post.

Yes. You and I are basically saying the same thing I think. 1. The brake arms fly out with centrifugal forces at speed and rub on the friction plate. At very slow speeds like we see in the video the arms are brought out initially by centrifugal forces and but are also free to swing back in when acted upon by gravity as the spool spinning slows to a point no longer sufficient to maintain the centrifugal forces necessary to keep them out. The noise is the product of either the brakes at the top of the spool falling into the friction plate or, more likely, when they pull off the plate at the bottom of the spool and hit the spool rim. With the abu ivcb the noise happens when the brakes near the bottom of the spool hit the friction plate but abu brakes are hindged at the spool rim and the lews are hindged at the spool center making it more likely that the noise is occurring from the brake returning to the resting position. 2. Yes you will absolutely hear the same noise if OP turns smacks the handle and as the spool and handle slow you will hear the sound of the brakes that had flown out falling back into place. You will not hear it steadily cranking on the handle because there is either enough spool speed to keep the brake arms out from the spool and in contact with the race or insufficient spools speed to swing them out depending of reel ratio and handle turning speed. The noise the OP has been experiencing across two of the same reels (remember he exchanged one already for the same "issue") is the sound of the swing arm centrifugal brakes falling back into the resting position and hitting the spool side after having been thrown out by the centrifugal forces from the spool flick. As the spool slows to the stop the brakes that were all flung out by the spool flick drop back into place one by one as they reach a position on the spool where gravity can pull them back down in the spools rotation because once they fly out, they are stuck out until they can fall back down. Because they are hindged at the spool center they call fall back down only at the bottom portion of the spool. Notice how the intervals between ticks increases as the spool slows? Thats because it takes longer for each brake to reach the position where it can be pulled down by gravity and back into the resting position. Notice how you hear no more than 6 ticks at most per OP's spool flicks? That's because there are 6 brakes. Also notice how there is an initial soft tick right after OP flicks the spool? That is the sound of the brakes flying out in unison and hitting the race. As the spool slows you then hear the 6 ticks of the brakes falling back down one by one. If you really wanted to anyone with this brake can remove the side plate from the spool and give the spool a good hard flick (careful not to let it fall out) while keeping the reel level and you can observe the brakes flay out and then fall back down as the spool slows to a stop just like in the OP's video. Edit: maybe flicking the spool without the bearing support of the side plate is not going to work. Will likely just drive the spool into the frame opening. You can quickly turn and stop the handle to get the brakes to fly out then very slowly rotate the handle and watch the brakes fall back down. Be careful to not allow the spool to pull out and lose pinon support unless this model has that pinon support bushing.

I'm ok with the ones behind the grip. Just don't grab the rod by the grip when picking it up. It's not like the bait is invisible. Don't reach for the hooks? I don't like how the hooks can tear up my grips though with trebble baits.