ska4fun

Cacutta 51B, 51XT, 51 shallow special and 51 Custom AMO/Momo Studio. All of them way studier and reliable than the newer Conquest BFS.

I use controlled snack to give the uttermost erratic swim on my twitch and jerkbaits.

I like 13 Fishing reels, but they are really overpriced.

Owner Broad.

Its a custom fiberglass trout rod.

It has hooked sideways. The treble hook wasn't puncturing my hand. Quite not, LOL! Missed my location for just some 3000 miles.

But infer it's usage on the brand budget line isn't in now way or form, an exercise of imagination.

My Conquest 51 Shallow special

The cardboard-like material is found on doyo's cheapest reels, the Abu Garcia Black Max and it's derivatives. Have you ever opened your reels?

Inches per turn, the amount of line retrieved per spool full turn.

Concerning drag problems on Doyo reels I only saw them with cardboard-like drag discs, similar to what shimano calls dartanium. Very cheap material.

Brackish water can damage your gear in ways even saltwater can't, since it has a lower density and higher penetration.

Rapala Gold V3 - Brazilian domestic market.

All-round 6.3:1. 5x:1 for bigbaits. 8:1 for poppers, propellers and most topwater lures and jerkbaits. But prefer to think in terms of IPT alone.

Chronic problem in the K-series. As I said befor, the K-series and somewhat the, I-series is where Shimano stopped seriously worrying about quality and started relying on its name alone. Over your reel, the problem is the low quality of the disengaging system spring.

Yep...

I was refering to the IVCB-VI, the best centrifugal brake I ever used. Revo MGX2.

And you are right about daiwa handling sudden speeds changes. Thanks to the magnetic nature of magforce braking systems. Actually with magforce Z/V and its derivatives, daiwa blend the befenfits of centrifugal braking (better highspin braking) and magnetic one (continuous control for all the cast). The mobile inductor cup gives a non-linear centrifugal-like behavior for the magforce Z/V. IVCB-II brakes, with ceramic blocks and polished braking plate almost mimicry a mag brake. It's the most advanced centrifugal braking system I ever used.

I only use lure dropping for centrifugal brakes. Just the most minimal side play and everything handled by the braking dial, above 12 position. Don't be sorry. You are plainly wrong, but in a very authoritative way. Spool tension control rotation, when the spool is disengaged. Aluminum is a paramagnetic metal, and under rotation and influence of the magnets, develops a counter EMF, in opposition to the one on them. Lenz Law. There is plenty of data over this matter. It's just basic understanding over magnetic braking.

Yep. Zero-adjust it one time and only use the magforce dial. There is one exception for lures with terrible aerodynamics, like these with very large lips. Tighter spool tensions should be avoided on mag brakes, because they don't allow a adequate magnetic field to be inducted in the spool rotor/inductor cup.

I think I wasn't clear over what I'm saying. I said magforce Z/V are linear mags until the centrifugal ''force'' make the inductor enter in the magnets space, when it becomes more like a centrifugal brake. The magnetic influence is always present, even with the inductor cup in resting position, out of the magnets. SV Spool requires magforce air. The cup don't move by centrifugal ''force'' alone, the magnets are needed to make the cup move.

Actually it is, until the inductor cup enter the space between the magnets, when braking is increased way more than spool spinning do itself.

In no way or form this will work. ''Zero-adjust'' only works on braking were control is delivered during all of the cast, a.k.a mag braking and its linear derivatives.

Always, in most presentations, mainly BFS gear. Surely our ''15lb braided with MM power rod finesse guy'' can brag over tying braided direct to line.

Minimal side play is reserved to reels with a magnetoc component braking, either common linear, magforce ou dual braking centri-mag.