RRocket

I can't comment specifically to a medical condition but I can offer some wisdom living in the Great White North. I use some extremely tight fitting glove liners. They are warm and windproof (depending on brand) and allow me dexterity. They are so tight, I am able to use a spinning rod with them on. Knots? I learned how to tie them with forceps with gloves on (thanks, fly fisherman! ) I also have a couple of line threaders should I need to run line through the rod eyes after a break or re-rig. This can be done with gloves on. For toes? Electric socks. Yea, they work. And quite well! Used these for winter motorcycling where wind chill is extremely problematic. Have also used them for outdoor winter activities. They make liner versions which work very well with Merino socks. If you don't like electric, expedition weight/heavy weight Merino wool socks are fantastic on their own. And among the best supplemental hand warmers I've tried are Zippo hand warmers. These take lighter fluid. These have (mostly) been supplanted by battery operated rechargeable hand warmers and I'd imagine work just as well. Zippo makes an electric one too. Not sure if any of this is helpful, but thought I'd share.

SM seem to like purple flakes here in the Great Lakes...

I can't answer for Tom, but I've seen them at Barlows.

What have you used this far? I know Strike King, Booyah, Baby Buzzbait all make 1/8oz. Probably the highest quality off the top of my head would be Jackall Derabuzz..but in 3/16

If you want tiny AND strong (41lbs), give the Ryugi R Snap a try.

That's a pretty darn heavy weight you're using for shallow water IMO.

There are a number of interesting bladed jigs on the market. My favorite has weed guards on top and snag guards on the bottom. It's exceptional.

This. The design matters. Weed guard and pointed nose are what the Jack Wagon lack. It's also what hinders it in grass. Addressing these issues makes a tremendous difference.

I say just be a bit choosy with your paddle tail on a Free Rig. Some of them nose down awkwardly on the weightless drop.

Whatever size works! I know it's a terrible answer, but in shallow I'm 1/8 th and under. And the "under" depends on some variables.

Loads of grass here. And I'm an avid bladed jig fan. As with all things, depends on the thickness of grass. Depends how well your tackle if suited to "popping" the bait off of grass, and your technique, etc All of this matters and there is a bit of a learning curve. But, as with all baits..some are better suited than others. And the Jack Wagon is FAR from the best grass bladed jig. It's probably 4th or 5 th and a pretty big delta at that. The one I use reminds of a swim jig in use. So a better bladed jig would make all the difference. Or split the difference and try a Grass Piece or Imakatsu Zinx Chatter since you're already expert at a Spinnerbait.

I'm an avid bladed jig fisherman and I just don't like paddle tails on smaller bladed jigs. The actions seem to fight each other. On the small stuff, a pin tail or fin tail seems to work much better. And I fish the Free Rig in situations like this. I use a paddle tail with more of a glide drop/keeled belly (Dolive Shad) or a hybrid worm/pintail with a tantalizing shimmy (Dolive Stick) I'm able to show a weightless presentation AND a normal paddle tail/baitfish retrieve (when bait and weight connected). And since the hook is free, you get better movement from the swimbait. So you can show injured baitfish and fleeing baitfish with one rig. And it's very effective.

I've had the opposite happen a few times! I was catching from the bank and the guys in the boat were not. I presume its because I was pulling my bait towards and into the bank...and they were pulling their baits away from the bank. Sometimes the fish are wholly unpredictable.

From Gamakatsu: The Gamakatsu Worm 34R Hydroll is the optimal hook for scat and fluke style baits.

Came here to say this but for weeds.

Sorry...I'm just not buying it.

Same. Yes, I've caught fish on them but I EASILY out produce them with other baits. Easily. And I can't fathom why. And I absolutely love the colors and action. And could have easily been a fan boy. I'm especially fond of any of the MM colors. But they just don't produce! 😥 This goes for Drop Shot and Neko. My best success with these was 4" version on drop shot. Oh, and the fan boys should check out the collaboration between Missile Baits and Roboworm called the Magic Worm. Nice stuff!!

I subscribe to the belief that if the bass aren't biting your "Core Techniques" with any regularity that day (and you are skilled at your techniques and their presentations)...they aren't likely to bite at all regardless of whatever you throw. My "Core Techniques" are: bladed jig, Free Rig and Neko. Pretty simple. I fished all weekend with 2 rods on the boat and only switched between a few choice baits that I deem "the best" of their class. Now there are some caveats to the above that use common sense: if the fish are busting the surface, you probably shouldn't be working a bottom bait. Things that are rather obvious in other words. Another is as new baits come out, I test those out to see if they can supplant my "best baits". But I do not hoard. So for me personally, I like to keep it simple and I don't think I'm missing many fish because of that.

Yes, that's how they work. Pinch it closed. The instructions on back suggest a drop of glue to help keep it closed..but I've never used glue and never had one open.

I use these. Not sure if they'll help for what you need.

I generally used a 3-4" dropper and never had a Tokyo sink that far. I can't even see it happening with a 2" dropper.

So you think the fish are put off by a small(ish) swivel in clear water but aren't put off by a shiny hook sticking out the back of a fluke? Sorry if am I misunderstanding.

When I used Z brand, I used to stretch and snap them like an elasticc before I used them

Tokyo Rig is made for this...