SuperWetBlanket

The older Tats did not have the gear sets that the newer ones do. Older ones were buzzing a decent amount, especially when the Tat line was introduced. If you look at the price a gear set is worth on something like the 2025 Tat, they're as expensive as a Zillion set, and from what i've been reading online, they're really good for swimbaiting. And as someone who has been maining the Z2020 for musky/bass/pike since 2017, these stay silent and smooth for ages UNLESS you want to pull a snag with a #65+ by locking the drag, and just pulling on the line, but then again, no gear sets will survive this. First gen Ryogas that i've used for 5 years straight were also amazing when it comes to smoothness and how siltent they stayed after heavy use with large baits and pretty locked drag. The OG zillion was known to be a great reel for frogging and fishing in the slop. Everyone had their reels locked while fishing in heavy cover, and nobody was complaining about those reels going buzzy or grindy. It all depends on the gears design, frame+handle side plate material.

They do, and too much😆Even caught two carp (and they bit, not just snagged) earlier this year on my white 110.

Got this thing. Haven't used it yet, but seems like a very smooth line.

Those are just excuses for poor design. What you're suggesting is what i have on my standard bass setups. Since i use braid to a fluoro leader, i never fully lock up my drag (there's literally no reason to ever do it outside of fishing in the slop, and i don't use any reels with micro module in heavy veggies). From simple high resistance baits like spinnerbaits, medium-deep diving cranks, etc, gears go buzzy in around a season and a half of usage. With aluminum gears, this usually happens even quicker, especially on faster ratios. But when you're chunking large baits, aiming for big fish, you need a proper hookset to get those big hooks in, and if your drag isn't set properly, you're asking for problems. I am also not fully locking it up, but it is, say, 75% locked when compared to when i am fishing for bass with standard baits. It doesn't make much sense that a cheapo Tatula 200 that isn't even specially made for big baits can deal with a locked drag, but a so called flagship reel from Shimano, a reel made for big bait and big fish, has to be babied. It's ridiculous.

I wish i could give it to you for free on all the rods i ever had this reel seat. By far, this is the reel seat i dislike the most. This reel seat killed the Major Craft Corzza for me. Amazing rod, especially for the price you could get em from Japan, but that FUJI acsm was 🤢

Post some pics. I have a hard time believing this could happen while bass fishing, let alone happening multiple times. That said, just from watching random fishing vids on youtube, i have seen a ton of people having a bunch of issues with the curado where parts are just falling off while fishing. Going from the Curado E from back in the day, to this thing, i real something.

Am i supposed to fish for musky with a semi open drag? Also, where does it say that Shimano reels, even those made for big baits, are supposed to be babied? Never saw this being mentioned by Shimano, cuz you know, if they do say it, that would be a deal breaker to many, and it's not what they want. Their micro module gears should be exclusive for their BFS reels. If Daiwa was able to create flawlessly smooth gears with massive gear teeth, there's no excuse for Shimano to have a side hustle selling gear sets because they're designed to wear out extremely quickly. No idea why one would defend this either.

Got the 23 Antares DC MD just to see how it'll compare with the Z2020 for large baits for bass, musky and pike. Lots of people praising the reel, but i haven't seen anybody do a direct comparison between these two. Both have the same size spools and made for big baits, so its time for the micro module to do what it does best - - - go buzzy🤡

Yea, the knobs lateral play is something i remove the second i buy a new reels. Those shims are like $2 for a set of 100 on Aliexpress, so there's no excuse for not removing the play. If you need a spool, i'd grab a used one on ebay or japan auction sites. No reason to buy a new one, it's way too expensive, and sales on spools is something you ain't gonna find. Yes, sticky inductors are a thing. Just this April i've had it happening on my Z2020. Dunk the spool into an ultrasonic cleaner, and everything was perfect after. No need to oil anything either, just clean it, and it should be fine.

Pull up, and never apply force, or it'll dig, and you're done.

30lb is ridiculous. I lost at least 3 vision 110's back in 2022 because i told myself 30lb fluoro leaders are enough, which couldn't be more false. Was literally getting cut off by 1.5lb pike. Right now when aiming for musky, i use nothing under 80lb fluoro leader, it's the bare minimum to be safe. But of course, if you're not aiming for actual big boy fish, and aren't throwing large lures, a vision 110 with a 80lb fluro leader will destroy it's action. Instead, i'd use something like 20-40lb titanium leader, it will give you better action on smaller, bass sized lures.

Why would you get a massive 4k spinning reel in case a big musky bites once per 3 years? If you fish for bass and need a spinning reel, get a 2500 or a 3000. If you want to go for big pike and musky, grab a baitcaster. I use a Z2020 for musky, and it has been perfect for a long time.

Got these two. First time getting anything from Phat Lab.

Where G1 Duralumin is written at.

The top of the hood being plastic kills the reel being perfect. Plastic engine cover and zero adjust collar is also an eye sore. The plastic service port has no reason to exist on a reel of this caliber either.

Is it a barrel shaped thumb bar like the monoblocks? If so, this is the only metal thumb bar around. And i've never had either reels, so i am not 100% on it, but it does look metal to me.

Mostly fish for smallies and walleye, not largies. Go to is 1/8-1/4oz jighead and a 4" easy shiner.

lol things that i am happy about are mostly not worth talking about, it's not like i am gonna randomly create threads or leave comments to glaze a certain product.

I wanted to, but their site doesn't even have any contact info through mail. And yea, i have a few jerkbaits and Jackall Aska squarebills that have seen over 1000 bass. Have them for 8-11y, not sure how i haven't lost them yet.

Just a matter of principle. We pay much higher prices because the baits looks nice.

They're not metal. No company is gonna add weight on a metal thumb bar. I remember arguing with a person in the youtube comments about the thumb bar of the original ryoga, the guy wouldn't even want to hear about it not being made out of metal. It's just plastic coated with a finish that is similar to beadblasted metal. I also have a thumb bar from the 2018 ryoga that i bought to see if it would fit on my z2020 (z2020 thumb bar sux), and it's plastic just like on the original ryoga. All of these reels use plastic thumb bars.

With no paint left whatsoever. They should just sell unpainted ones for $5 then. And it's not like the lure is bad. It's great, but we're also talking about a $20 lure, not a $3 one from basspro.

There's no way any stock thumb bars on daiwa/shimano is made out of metal.

Well that depends. If the state of my Pointers is like that in a couple of fish, what are we expecting it to be after 200 fish?

The old Aldebarans had a magnesium handle side plate, and it was perfect that same. The same applies to most Steez reels, and they're certainly not heavy, but kinda perfect to balance a M or a MH rod. But yea, maybe i should show Shimano engineers how it's done, it's about time somebody tells em to thrown away micromodule into a dumpster.