Cylindrical vs Spherical vs Tear-Drop

 

Is there any practical difference? Is there a reason to prefer one over the other? 

The slimmer designed/shapes are my preference in any light weed, eel grass and rocks.

It must be tungsten and have a swivel top attachment point to cope with line twist.  The version with the clip or line pinch are no longer in my box.

A-Jay 

 

Cylindrical ones are generally better to use in areas with lots of snags or rocks. It's less likely to get hung up and can come out of the crevices between rocks. A supposed disadvantage is you don't feel the bottom as well, because of the cylindrical shape (I personally can't confirm this and I'm not sure I believe it). The round and teardrop ones are pretty much the same imo. They're better to use in open water on gravel or sand. I only use cylindrical ones, no real reason besides they are more snag-proof in my experience. 

If you cast the drop shot rig and retreive it by dragging it back snags are inevitable so use weight shapes that reduce snagging. If you drop more verticle snagging is reduced and round or flat bottom shapes work better.

Tom

For bank fishing I always use the cylindrical weights, if from a boat, usually a tear drop. 

If you're using lead, the cylindrical ones can be quickly trimmed if you want a lighter weight. 

I have gone exclusively tear drop, tie on, tungsten.

Ill offer up an unpopular opinion with humans, but seems to be popular among the fish. If you are fishing around grass, everything says to use the cylinder weights to keep from hanging up. A technique that has paid off very handsomely for me in tournaments is throwing heavier than suggested, round style weights. They get snagged in the grass and require a little snapping of the rod to get the weight to come free. That's where I use it to my advantage. When the weight is snagged, I can impart extra action into my baits that I wouldn't normally be able to do. If you overwork a drop shot bait with a lighter weight, the weight and the bait move together as 1 unit which is not what you are looking for. If the weight is snagged, all the extra movement you impart stays with the bait because the weight is secured to the bottom. The other key to this technique is a longer than normal leader from the weight to the bait. Sometimes I will go as long as 24"-30" to keep the bait just above the grass.

Has any one ever tried hollow core pencil lead?  You can cut to any size, and if it gets snagged the lead would slide off rather than break your line.  Just an idea.  I have never tried it myself.

I am with A-Jay and dropped the clip tops and also use cylindrical.  Soooo much easier.

I'm a cheap ass I use split shots still 

Not always knowing the depth or gradient I might be fishing,

I stick with 'teardrop' sinkers (middle of the road).

 

Roger