Nylon versus Fluorocarbon

(Monofilament War)

Fluorocarbon line is a monofilament polymer introduced in the early 90s. At the onset, fluoro was mainly

used for saltwater leaders (count me in), but after the turn of the century it became increasingly popular

as a main-line material. Today, fluorocarbon line rivals the popularity of nylon and braid.

Not without just cause, fluorocarbon line possesses several desirable line attributes.

 

Fluorocarbon line is the new kid on the block, but nylon line has yet to relinquish its throne.

‘Stretch’ refers to line deformation that extends the length, while ‘elasticity’ refers to spring-back

in the opposite direction that shortens the length. According to several line studies, nylon line

and fluorocarbon line exhibit very similar line stretch. In fact, the ‘brand’ of line played a bigger role

in line stretch, than the difference between nylon & fluoro.

 

The most outstanding difference between nylon and fluorocarbon line is ‘elasticity’. 

Nylon line is remarkably elastic, while fluorocarbon line exhibits mediocre spring-back.

Fluoro line stretches easily at first but does not return to its original shape. With ongoing use, fluoro line

becomes increasingly stretch-resistant, which is not as good as it sounds. Like saltwater taffy,

reduced stretch is typically accompanied by line elongation, reduced spring-back and a thinner diameter.

In turn, this results in decreased tensile strength, abrasion-resistance and knot strength.

In contrast, nylon has remarkable spring-back, and is unsusceptible to elongation-related issues.

In the final analysis, the monofilament war between nylon and fluorocarbon is far from cut-and-dried:

 

 

 

              LINE PROPERTY SHOOTOUT

 

LINE PROPERTY            VICTOR

Abrasion Resistance          Fluoro     (Degrades over time) 

Water Repulsion               Fluoro      (Owing to greater density)

Sink Rate                         Fluoro      (Owing to greater density)

Ultraviolet Resistance        Fluoro    

Elasticity                          Nylon       

Knot Strength                   Nylon       (by a long shot)

Cost                                 Nylon          

=====================================================

Volumetric Displacement    None       (Both monofilament lines have equally fat diameters)

Stretch Resistance             None       (More dependent on line ‘brand’ than line ‘material’)

Invisibility                         None       (Hinges as much on backlighting as line material)

Longevity                          None       (Fluoro succumbs to elongation | Nylon succumbs to ultraviolet)

==================================================

 

BOTTOM-LINE: 

The choice between Nylon & Fluoro depends on where he or she place their priorities.

 

Roger

 

 

 

21 minutes ago, RoLo said:

Nylon versus Fluorocarbon

Thank you for that, Roger. Personally, I tried several different FC lines and decided to stick with nylon or copolymer - specifically YZH.

 

Truthfully - I'm tempted to go with all YZH on all my non-braid reels, which is 8 of my 10 rigs...currently 4 have YZH as mainline.

 

There any comparisons of copolymers vs monofilaments?

The only 2 “advantages” of nylon over flouro according to the “Shootout” is elasticity and knot strength. 
 

To me elasticity is a non factor as there isn’t one presentation that I need to use nylon for. 
And yes, that includes treble and top water rigs. 
 

The other is knot strength. 
Honestly, in all the years I’ve been on this board the one thing that drives me nuts is the prevailing thought that no one can tie a consistently strong flouro knot!!

I and many many other folks who use flouro almost exclusively have never had a break off that can be 100% attributed to the properties of the line. 
When tied correctly a proven knot will hold regardless of the line used. 

 

Granted, there are considerations that anglers should be aware of that are unique to fluorocarbon lines, which have been beaten to death on here. 
 

All that being said, unless I have totally misread or misunderstood the Bottom Line comment, I completely disagree with it.
It insinuates that anyone who ties a knot using flouro doesn’t have his priorities in order.  

Now, let it begin ?
 

 

Mike

Nearly everyone can tie the improved clinch knot on Nylon line and achieve 100% knot strength.

knowone can tie a 100% knot strength on FC line. 

The connection we have to our lures and termination tackle is via the knot.

It's The most important factor to consider.

Why does FC line have lower knot strength across the knot spectrum?

Cold flow under pressure is closely related to elasticity, the deforms form the pressure created by the knot.

Tom

Clam chowder is the worst and you wont change my mind.

My biggest issue with Fluorocarbon is abrasion resistance.

 

I tie a palomar knot with mono, fluro, & braid with zero issues.

Used flouro (tatsu) for three years now on 5 rods have pulled the boat to hang ups and caught a fair number of fish with it. I have never and that means not one time had a knot slip or fail. Improved clinch knot has never slipped and I cut my tags close to the knot. Plenty of bite- offs with pike and pickerel and a couple of line breaking incidents but never at a knot. 

11 hours ago, Mike L said:

The only 2 “advantages” of nylon over flouro according to the “Shootout” is elasticity and knot strength. 
 

To me elasticity is a non factor as there isn’t one presentation that I need to use nylon for. 
And yes, that includes treble and top water rigs. 
 

The other is knot strength. 
Honestly, in all the years I’ve been on this board the one thing that drives me nuts is the prevailing thought that no one can tie a consistently strong flouro knot!!

I and many many other folks who use flouro almost exclusively have never had a break off that can be 100% attributed to the properties of the line. 
When tied correctly a proven knot will hold regardless of the line used. 

I agree...experience trumps opinion for me every time    Dave 

   I'll go out on a limb here: I think the people who say fluoro has poor knot strength are using light (6,8 lb test) fluoro. The people who say they have no problems are using heavier (12, 15 or 20 lb. test) fluoro. Here's why:

 

   Let's say you have a 15 lb. fluoro that breaks at 8 lb. knot strength. (Half rating)

   You also have a 15 lb. mono that breaks at 12 lb. knot strength. (80% rating)

   And you have a 15 lb. braid that breaks at 14 lb. knot strength.

   On paper, the fluoro looks weak. But if your drag is set to 4 lbs. max, I doubt you'll ever detect any difference in the performance of the three lines. As for snagging up, you need to use a lure retriever. If you just pull and pull and pull until the line gives, you've damaged ANY line, not matter which kind. Cut off a long hank and re-tie.

 

   But let's say you're running 6 lb. test line, as you would for drop shot. You've set drag to 3 lbs.

   The person who uses braid wouldn't use 6 lb. test braid anyway. They'd use at least 10 lb. test braid, and then a leader. So we don't need to worry about the braid itself.

   The 6 lb. mono breaks at 4.8 lbs. knot strength. That's 80%, and I think that's reasonable.

   The 6 lb. fluoro breaks at 3 lbs. knot strength.

   With the fluoro, you're in trouble when you use 6 lb. line. With 15 lb. line, you'll probably wonder what the brouhaha is all about.

 

   These are all theoretical, and not related to any actual lines. I think they're also all worst-case. But like I say, I think they're reasonable in the sense of comparison.

 

   Just my 2 cents worth.         jj

I generally have no issues with fluoro.  I use 4# through 100# for various applications.  It might help to know, I also don't have issues with most braided, fused, coated, copolymer, or traditional mono.  There have been some specific brands that I just couldn't trust because they broke at a much lower strength than the diameter would suggest, didn't hold a knot, or were plain unruly on the reel.  Those lines number in less than a half dozen.  I used to do a demonstration with my lecture partner, Paul at fishing shows.  We both tied a palomar knot to a hook using 6# Invisx.  Mine would usually break a little over 7#, his sometimes less than 4#.  Then he tied his "favored" knot, and he'd get over 6#.  Practice your knots, and check them, whatever line you use.  I don't think I'm some sort of knot tying guru, but I do think the long winters of geeking around the basement with fishing gear may have helped.

I have never had a knot come untied on any line, but I have had many knots fail.  Most failures were on snags, very few lost fish.  Most of the time the line breaks just above the knot with all line types.  I have tested many lines and every knot I am able to learn from U tube or friends.  From my tests I strongly believe floro knots are weaker than mono.  This  does not mean you will loose  fish because of a knot with floro?  Probably not. I use Floro for both leader and main line, but I don't claim it has equal knot strength.  All lines have advantages and disadvantages each angler has to balance for their unique situation.  I believe braid knots are weaker than mono, but make up for it by having a huge advantage in the strength to diameter category.  Even a 50% knot with 60 pound braid is not going to break.

      If you don't loose any fish from breaking off, than use what line you have had success with.  That doesn't mean the line has great knot strength.  Only means you are a skilled angler that also ties his knots well.

12 hours ago, iabass8 said:

Clam chowder is the worst and you wont change my mind.

Come on...a little hot sauce dabbed on??