11 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

I just use shrink tubing and poke a hole through it. I've never lost a bait once due to either the shrink tube or a VMC Touch-Lok snap failing. The wire isn't a bad idea though. Before I tried the shrink tube I used to wrap the R bend with 24G copper bell wire and solder it in place. Wrapped correctly the solder doesn't need to bond onto the bait's wire at all. It just locks the copper in position.

 

Tied and soldered spinnerbaits!  That was my thought too.  We do that with track bike spokes.

You can also use the small dental rubber bands used for braces. They are strong, tiny, effortless to install and add like no weight @ all and will last all season.

. 

13 hours ago, Bankbeater said:

I use a split ring over the bend before I put the snap on.

Seems like that or the wire trick posted above oughta do it. I wonder if you could even just twist it closed with pliers (never tried, I’m guessing they are too brittle) 

5 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

Seems like that or the wire trick posted above oughta do it. I wonder if you could even just twist it closed with pliers (never tried, I’m guessing they are too brittle) 

I have closed the loop but I don’t recommend it.

17 hours ago, riverat said:

He also made spinnerbaits and according to him, the closed loop actually has more vibration than the R bend. 

 

Have him test a Stanley spinnerbait

 

Stanley's Wedge, Vibra Shaft, & Vibra Wedge have more flash & vibration than any spinnerbait on the market.

 

Stanley Vibra Shaft is tapered starting at the head. This not only allows more vibration but offer thicker wire at the tie (less breakage). 

 

As far slip rings, snaps, rubber bands, ect I simply tie a Palomar knot & chinch it tight.

 

At 70 yrs old I can still slide the line back up if necessary!

I use steel leaders with snaps (pike waters) with R bent spinner baits and it slides very rarely on the cast, but when it does it still fixes itself on the retrieve (most often).

 

 

8 hours ago, steve-pierce said:

I put a small piece of hose over the line tie to keep the snap or direct tie from sliding

 

i don’t understand the vibration VS wire size thing. Blades are never mentioned. Does a thick wire turn a big Colorado into a small willow?

The thin wire is just a little tweak. Compared to the blade size and style, the wire has very little effect on vibration. The problem I've found with very thin wire SBs is they wear out quickly. The War Eagle spinnerbait flexes so much the lead head gets loose on it. I've had one break at the line tie during a cast. All I got back were the blades, which of course I kept for future use.

10 hours ago, steve-pierce said:

I put a small piece of hose over the line tie to keep the snap or direct tie from sliding

 

i don’t understand the vibration VS wire size thing. Blades are never mentioned. Does a thick wire turn a big Colorado into a small willow?

Blades on a good ball bearing will provide the same input force onto either type of wire.  The reaction of the wire is however different.  Break two different thicknesses of hangers at the same length and attach a 1oz weight to them and whip them back and forth.  You will feel the difference.  Now whether that difference is a good thing or bad thing for attracting fish I have no idea.

 

Btw - change the speed and frequency that you wobble said wire.  Then realize for different baits that motion will be imparted at different retrieve speeds.

 

I direct tie my spinner baits. I use either Mono or Fluoro line for spinner baits. I used to love the Mann's Hank Parker spinner bait. It has a closed eye. I don't like issue with the closed eye because if the spinner bait spins during the cast and it happens to me at least some of the time. The closed eye where the wires meet creates a pinch point for my line to get caught in. It damages the line significantly. So I only us the "R" bend models now. Like Catt if my line slides up. I just push it back in place.

FM

8 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

Seems like that or the wire trick posted above oughta do it. I wonder if you could even just twist it closed with pliers (never tried, I’m guessing they are too brittle) 

 

I have squeezed a few loops down but never tried to twist a loop. I am sure the wire would break or I'd otherwise destroy the spinner bait. 

 

From my experience squeezing the loop or a thin wire tie around the loop works best but I will try the heat shrink. That looks like a winner.   

6 hours ago, Catt said:

 

Have him test a Stanley spinnerbait

 

Stanley's Wedge, Vibra Shaft, & Vibra Wedge have more flash & vibration than any spinnerbait on the market.

 

Stanley Vibra Shaft is tapered starting at the head. This not only allows more vibration but offer thicker wire at the tie (less breakage). 

 

 

 

He is now retired, but I should point out that he did the testing before the Stanley products were on the market. I have no doubt you are correct about this.