I have a Nitro Z20 and have always had others handle the trailer maintenance, but I really want to learn how to do it myself. I honestly know nothing about trailers or this type of work. If you were starting from zero, what YouTube videos would you recommend to help me learn?

Great topic! I’m not the greatest person to comment about trailers but the few things I focus on are:

• registration - can’t tell you how many times I forget to put the registration in my jeep and sticker on the plate

• Wheel lube - I launch in saltwater so I’m really focused on maintaining wheel lube

• Working trailer lights. I made it a habit of checking them every time the trailer gets moved. Seems like they need the most attention

• Finally, make sure you put a lock in at the ball while traveling

Can’t wait to hear what other members have to day

Trailer maintenance is a big issue with me as well.

One of the things I changed on my trailer which was always a problem is the manufacturers use of the trailer frame as the ground or negative conductor for electricity to the tail lights.

So I got tired of that problem and used a 50' regular extension cord with 3 conductors to run from connector through trailer frame to tail lights and no longer use the trailer frame as a conductor because of notoriously bad connections. I've had no more problems since moving away from the trailer frame as a conductor.

A little detail a lot of people ignore and don't mess with usually is the lock down on the hitch ball. There is an adjustment nut on the underside to adjust to get just the right amount of spring loaded tension on it for proper lock down on the ball, and I bet most don't grease the cup that goes onto the ball. Little details like that.

I also take the safety chains and put them into the shop vise to bend the hooks closed just to the point of where they still fit on the tow vehicle easy on easy off, but closed up enough to not fall or pop off the tow vehicle.

Another often overlooked issue are the trailer suspension springs. These can rust out badly especially in saltwater use. I recently nearly had a disaster towing an abandoned boat someone had given to me. Each side had 4-leaf springs. On one side 2 had rusted completely through and 1 on the other side. It could have been very dangerous had one side broken and given way. These are really cheap to replace. I think my new ones cost $60 with free shipping. So check those. Keep them in good shape.

You kind of have to go over every detail sometimes. Another issue often overlooked are the rollers under the boat. Quite often they are knocked out of alignment or proper placement usually from boaters who like to drive the boat up onto trailers right out of the water and hit them hard enough multiple times to knock them around and out of place. Also make sure they are in good shape and that the underside of boat is not being damaged in any way. Check the bunks as well and bunk supports.

Another issue often overlooked are those wheel bearings. They are simple to check. Simply use a floor jack and jack up one side of the trailer at a time until tire is off the ground and can spin freely. Then spin wheel and listen and feel for any grinding or noise. Properly greased wheel bearings run silently and smoothly. Also check to see if there is any side to side play with the hub on the axle and tighten if necessary. Hand tight is good enough.

If I were to break down on side of the road and had to repair or replace wheel bearings and maybe a hub, I could do so with minimal tools. And its a good idea to carry these tools with you when towing a boat. I also carry spare bearings, grease gun, and even a spare hub as well, and the obvious a spare tire.

I can say now in my 60's I have never broken down on the side of the road because of wheel bearings because of regular maintenance. But I cannot tell you how many others I have seen on the side of the road who never did any maintenance and let it go until they smoked some bearings and wound up on side of road without the tools or spare parts to fix it. Most of those who I see breaking down because of this- in Florida- are mostly the saltwater boaters as the saltwater takes them faster and harder than the freshwater trailers.

Also check your wench and cable and tie downs.

Doing your own trailer maintenance keeps you informed on where it stands on a regular basis so maintenance can be more thorough and regular as well.

I can't help you with any videos. I am sure some others here can and will soon.

I also have a Nitro Z20. I don’t do my own work but I can tell you what has gone wrong with my trailer and what to watch for. What year is your trailer?

10 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

I also have a Nitro Z20. I don’t do my own work but I can tell you what has gone wrong with my trailer and what to watch for. What year is your trailer?

2020

Here's a couple of videos that point out what to look for. You may or may not be able to perform the work yourself.

The first things I had replaced were the bunks. Check them often while the boat is off the trailer.

Keep the grease zerks in the tongue lubed otherwise it will slap on starts and stops.

Check your vortex hubs on a regular basis.

Keep your tires at the proper inflation.

It is probably getting close to time for the springs to be replaced.

Rotate your tires 2 times yearly.

Check your fenders they wear and become loose.

Mine is going on 10 and I have spent a lot of money on it keeping things good.

I don't feel like there's that much maintenance to a boat trailer, at least nothing significant.

Keep them clean, tires inflated, bearings greased, dab a little grease on the ball.

My tires are directional so Jack trailer and take tires to tire shop every year for rotation.

Only thing I'm OCD about before every trip is proper tire PSI.

Bunks are either good or need replacement but go years before needing attention.

I have no experience with salt water but logic tells me increased maintenance is inevitable.

If you have a tandem axle trailer there is a lot more to be aware of. Or if you have trailer brakes.

I only have a single axle, no brakes. Maintenance is very minimal. Properly inflated tires, replace as needed, including the spare.

Modern trailers should be using LED bulbs on the lights so they last a long time.

I’ve had to replace bunk carpet twice in 10 years. Eventually I’d like to get ultimate bunk boards or gatorbak instead.

Lock your trailer in the parking lot.

9 hours ago, gim said:

Modern trailers should be using LED bulbs on the lights so they last a long time.

You would think. Mine lasted 2 seasons and expensive to replace

Not only check the air pressure in your tires, but carefully inspect the condition of your tires. Look for cracking, dry rot, and any damage. When in doubt, replace them. You have a large investment riding on them and new tires is cheap insurance. In addition, trailer tires usually don/t wear out. Most often they age out. Check the date code.

3 hours ago, Jigfishn10 said:

You would think. Mine lasted 2 seasons and expensive to replace

I didn't know how to react to your post so I'll just say that sucks.

3 hours ago, Jigfishn10 said:

You would think. Mine lasted 2 seasons and expensive to replace

Did you do the repair yourself?

1 minute ago, gim said:

I didn't know how to react to your post so I'll just say that sucks.

Not sure why you didn't know how to react? ... But Light Emitting Diodes are great and should last just like you said, but you do occasionally get a bad one ... I'm guessing that it was a manufacturing defect ... IDK, but just guessing

I damaged one of my outside LED indicator lights years ago. At the access I turned to sharp near a tree and the bulb was damaged when I ran against it. I think replacing the bulb and covering for that was about 7 bucks though so it was very cheap.

I didn't want to select "like" for bad bulbs and I didn't want to "laugh" at your post either.

5 minutes ago, stk44 said:

Did you do the repair yourself?

I did ... really easy to do. The hardest pill to swallow was the fact that I couldn't buy just 1, I needed to buy them in pairs. Not because that's the way they work, just how mine were sold

Just now, Jigfishn10 said:

I did ... really easy to do. The hardest pill to swallow was the fact that I couldn't buy just 1, I needed to buy them in pairs. Not because that's the way they work, just how mine were sold

Ah ok. I was just curious if the issue was a bad LED for sure. The reason I ask is that after two seasons, my starboard side brake light was out but would sometimes turn on very dim.

I unplugged the light and plugged it into the port side and it worked fine. So then I went to the ground wire, scuffed the terminal, sprayed contact cleaner, and applied some dielectric grease. That fixed my issue.

4 minutes ago, Jigfishn10 said:

I did ... really easy to do. The hardest pill to swallow was the fact that I couldn't buy just 1, I needed to buy them in pairs. Not because that's the way they work, just how mine were sold

On the plus side, you now have a spare on hand that you can use down the road if needed. 😃

Just now, Crow Horse said:

On the plus side, you now have a spare on hand that you can use down the road if needed. 😃

You know that's funny, right after I posted I thought the same thing ... haha ... great minds!

1 minute ago, stk44 said:

Ah ok. I was just curious if the issue was a bad LED for sure. The reason I ask is that after two seasons, my starboard side brake light was out but would sometimes turn on very dim.

I unplugged the light and plugged it into the port side and it worked fine. So then I went to the ground wire, scuffed the terminal, sprayed contact cleaner, and applied some dielectric grease. That fixed my issue.

I'm not sure how these work, I'm in building construction - residential and commercial - and LED fixtures in buildings need a driver to make them work. A driver is what used to be the ballast in a fluorescent light fixture. I'm sure you remember when the fluorescent tube would flicker it meant that the ballast was crapping out.

A bad driver gives no indication, it just goes. When LED fixtures first came out, bad drivers were always an issue. Your newly constructed 20,000 sf space always had like 5 light fixtures out when you turned on the lights for the first time ... LOL. I don't know what drives the LEDs on vehicle or trailer lights TBH

@Jigfishn10 your guess is as good as mine. No idea how they work but I wish they would just stay working.

After owning a boat and several trailers, I have realized that nothing is maintenance free and I’m starting to get worn out LOL.

2 minutes ago, stk44 said:

@Jigfishn10 your guess is as good as mine. No idea how they work but I wish they would just stay working.

After owning a boat and several trailers, I have realized that nothing is maintenance free and I’m starting to get worn out LOL.

Well, you were smart to repair your issue. A simple $10 - 15 meter is your friend when it comes to vehicle or trailer electrical issues and saves a lot of headaches.

Maintenance is pretty easy on my trailers, one is from 1957. You can figure it all out by taking it apart, the hardest part is the lights! They are eternally damned. Hubs and bearings are a breeze (except for maybe once or twice) compared to lighting. Also now that I do maintenance for a living, LED lights are public enemy number one in every application 😂. This latest winter storm I think may have eaten thru the pigtail on my truck. Both blinkers and brake lights work but running lights don’t. Sometimes the driver side goes out but you can jiggle the pigtail and it comes on. Stupid salt rusted everything