Micro

The SK rigs with the brass sinkers are fine. I've tied my own in the past but the pre-rigged SKs are way more convenient and work just as well. They don't hang up any worse than rigs you've tied. And as far as a bass having to pick them up and swim off with them to feel anything - that's not my experience. There is no loss in sensitivity. I like to tie on a SK rig. But what I will do even before I leave my house is tie a few leaders. I'll tie a few leaders to swivels, then use various hooks for various worms. Then I'll have a few with me and won't have to tie them on the boat. You can just clip your swivel to the SK rig. It's easy and it works very well.

I've probably caught more fish on the Heddon Lucky 13 than any other top-water. But since last season, I've been taken with the Ima Roumba. This bait is the bomb-digity. If you haven't tried one, give one a whirl. A little expensive, but fished over submerged grass, it draws the blowups. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewimaroumba.html

I'm curious as to how this stuff actually helps. I mean, how does it make a line softer? Is there something about it that changes the molecular structure of the line? And if it does make a line softer, wouldn't it make it weaker? And I'm curious as to how it "soaks in." Maybe on mono, but some copolys and all fluoros are touted as water-proof. And I see claims of huge gains even with coploys and fluoro. So how does it soak in on those? I mean, if it just slicks up the line so it peels off the spool easier and slips through the guides easier, I can see that. I suppose you could use lemon Pledge for that as well. But making a line softer? Can someone give a description as to how that is actually done? Don't get me wrong, I 'm not putting down the product. I haven't used it. But I've seen some incredible claims and it seems to me the most this stuff could do is slick up the line.

Jackall Mikey Sr. looks good.

It is an old, pre-Revo reel that is out of production. As cheap as they seem, I haven't heard many bad reviews. I saw some new for sale not to long ago in a local tackle shop. The were packed in clam-packs. I think they were around $60.

No.

This not a "hypothetical." This is something our new administartion says it is going to do. It's unconscionable. http://www.foxnews.com/politics/first100days/2009/03/17/vets-group-blasts-obama-plan-private-insurance-pay-service-related-health-care/

Whatever you buy, they shoulder be polarized, and provide 100% UVA and UVB protection. And lenses should be distortion-fre (optically perfect). Everything else is a matter of preference and price. Expensive sunglass will have glass lenses. Some with interchangable lenses will be acryllic. But acryllic is not as durable and can scratch easier. Some of the most expensive, popular and stylish sunglasses have acryllic lenses. So price isn't necessarily and indicator of glass lenses. Lense coatings can also affect scratch resistance. So, buy what you like, but know what you are getting. I've tried expensive sunglasses, but invariably I loose them or break them. I just won't spend a lot on sunglasses anymore. Gill is a company that makes sunglasses for watersports. They aren't cheap, but they are excellent glasses and don't cost a fortune either. For a really good pair of sunglasses, I recommend looking into Gill. http://gillsailinggear.com/Gill/Gill-sunglasses.htm Their Classics are awesome. They float, and will fit a bigger face well (like mine). The copper lenses are a great freshwater lense, and the smoke being just good for bright, open water conditions.

I've been looking high and low for a 7.5 - 8 ft cranking rod that can handle up to 2oz baits and that had a grip behind the trigger that is 12-15 inches long. I can't find one anywhere. The closest I can get is a "lite" musky rod, which I haven't completely ruled out. So I'm thinking about a custom. So, some questions... 1) Can I get a good custom in the $250-$300 range. If not, what should I expect to pay for a rod like the one described above? 2) What sort of warranty could I expect? 3) Who are some reputable builders? 4) Any other thought or things to lookout for would be appreciated.

I know Fourbizz knows what he's talking about. I'm just sorry he felt I was being picky when I was just trying to get to the meat of the issue. That's a problem with the internet. I sounded picky, and that wasn't my intent. As far as getting a deal, I certainly didn't buy it because I thought I was getting a good deal. In fact, I thought it was sort of expensive. I paid MSRP for it. I just wanted to try something new. It looked good, and it still looks good. You're right, it's a mute point. I already have it. (I tend to do that, but luckily I've been pleasantly suprised by most of what I've bought.) I'm going to throw it. If it works, great. If it doesn't, I'll give it to some poor boob that doesn't know any better and he'll probably catch his personal best on it ;D.

Thanks for your answer.

I had to return a Cardinal 502ALB because the bail line roller bearing went. They sent me a brand new reel, too. I've also had to order some parts (mainly screws I've buggered up) and I got those free of charge. I don't know what else you could ask for. Their customer service is fantastic.

If you felt compelled to respond, perhaps you could have given a reasonable response in your first post. Instead you wrote "those things are...." In your second post you wrote "Stay away from: Reaction Strike..." In your third post you wrote "They OEM all their garbage out of asia." In your fourth post you wrote "have it your way." Not until your fifth post did you have something substantial to say. Sorry if it sounded like I was being defensive, but it felt like pulling teeth to get the one person who knew something to say something that meant something.

Simply saying something sucks doesn't mean a heck of a lot. There's a lot of that going on on this board. Glenn brought it up in another thread. Someone asks about a bait then someone simply says it sucks and leaves it at that. How about if they've used it? How long? Has it caught fish? How does it rate to something comparable? Likes? Dislikes? Qualities? And if it doesn't have any, why? If it sucks it sucks, but a reason might be nice. I know there are some long-time, specialized fisherman on this board with a wealth of knowledge, but there aren't any mind readers on this board.

Not familiar with inflation, are you? It's also got the Xcraftic frame and HPCR bearings for 2009.

I have a few and so far I'm not that impressed. Here's what I've seen. The biggest advantage is that it is a big bait. It's long, deep and very thick. It is nearly twice as thick as LC LVR D10. It looks like a mouthfull. It has a nice, very durable construction and finish. It has transparent side, with a little exterior paint (depending on the color scheme you get), and a reflective insert. I've found this finish to last, and last and last. I've got other Rapalas constructed this way that have been chewed up by pickerel and bowfin and they still flash. It has Excellent VMC hooks. Sticky-sharp. The only downside for the sure-set hooks is that AFAIK no one makes a hook bonnet for them. The lure is heavy, and sinks like a rock. VERY fast, nose first. The lure rests on the bottom on the tip of its nose with it rear ended pointing towards the surface. Of all the lipless I have, this one does that the best. The down side is that I have noticed very little action unless I'm using a pretty fast retrieve. I've had to crank mine fast to get a decent action. If you try to jig it, it sinks nose first, and doesn't flutter on the rise. It would seem to make a pretty good bed fishing lipless due to its nose-standing characterisitic, but you have to retrieve it too fast to get any action. So that sort of kills in in my view. I'm not too impressed with it so far. Of all the lipless I've fished, the Yo-Zuri Hardcore Drum and the Jackall T/N70s have the best actions. These can be fished fast. But they have great actions even at super slow speeds. When jigging, the Jackall sinks nose first, but flutters nicely on the rise. The Yo-Zuri doesn't sink quite as nose first, but it doesn't plane to one side like some other lipless. It, too, flutters nicely in the rise. Both will nose-stand on the bottom. IMO, these are the two best lipless I've tried, and I've tried a lot. It's a toss-up for me as to which is best.

Yes, I've used it, and I like it. Here's why... It's a good size. Not so big that you need a specialized rod/reel combo to throw it. I throw mine on a 7' m/mf rod. It has a very good action, and it tracks straight. It has a good, duarable finish and excellent hooks. It sinks, slowly, and almost perfectly horizontally. It will rest on its hooks on the bottom.

Well, it's my first and only "big" swimbait. My other swimbaits are smaller Sebiles and Jackalls. For $17, I figured it could suck and I wouldn't be out much. Thanks for the reviews.

OK, OK, don't get so bent out of shape. You don't like the bait. I get it. But "why" is kind of important. Sorry asking the "why" part upset you.

What makes you think all that's going to happen? The thing has a pretty thick clear cloat on it. The hardware is stainless steel. There is a stainless wire running through it. The joints look very robust to me. I can't defend the thing, I have't tried it. But you seem to have to very strong opinions about certain baits. Have you tried this bait?

Hmmm. I was just going by what's on the box. Anyway, from what I've seen on the 'net, they seem fairly well regarded. I think I'll still give it a whirl. We don't have any high-falootin' bass in Virginia, so maybe they won't know it doesn't cost $65.

This bait is made in Indiana. It's also made of wood.

Great. Why didn't you tell me that before I bought it? Oh well, I'll give it a whirl, anyway. This one seems well made and has a sweet paintjob, if anything.

I just bought one. It looked really nice and I've been wanting to try a bigger swimbait. This one wasn't too expensive - $17. It's a little late, but I thought I'd ask. Are they worth a darn?

I agree, the 5600 is all you need. The 6500 is overkill.