J Francho

Braid and senkos are the worst in the wind. Even with fluoro, I try to "snap" the line to the water at the end of the cast. When it's really windy, I'll use a small pinch on weight.

Pay attention to the weight capacity, and get seat time. Jackson used to have the best seat in the biz, but everyone has caught up or passed them in that regard. I have yet to be impressed with their stuff.

I actually don't think this too far out of reach. I'd be looking to use an aluminum shaft, and fiberglass blades.

Or rig it upside down.

You could make your own....just kidding! I have a full carbon fiber, two piece, Oracle Ergo from AT. It is both adjustable infinitely in offset, and has a 10cm range - 130-140 for length. I used to say that it didn't matter, so long as it was half way decent, but after using the AT, I won't go back. Try some from all ranges, and I think you'll find something that balances price with features. Aside from length and the drop rings, I think you were realizing the limitations of that hull. I have a Jackson, and have been in most of their boats. They all paddle like a sheet plywood.

Bottom side to Bama Craw. The only color I need.

I know a few people that been getting into it.

Oh man. I'm so sorry.

"Poop Jig"

Young kings were in the bay yesterday, jumping all over the place. I'm fishing docks, and there's 30" kings launching out of the water right next to me. Happens every fall, but it's still a sight.

I did a bunch of finesse fishing yesterday, and what I noticed needed improvement was the time between closing the bail, and getting to a point where I could detect a bite. This was most prevalent when skipping docks. A few times, there's a bit of slack, and that's when I saw slight line movement, as I flipped the bail. I didn't lose those fish, but I feel like I could miss some or probably did. I started cupping the spool at the end of the cast, which helped quite a bit. Sort of like how you'd slow a baitcast spool when a bait touches down, during a pitch cast.

If your rod tip moves 2" and you can't feel it, then you need to see the doctor!

Who cares? Though: http://www.kevinvandam.com/on_tour/tackle_room/quantum

Well, you named two of the better bass factories, both have larger than average fish. I don't know what you're fishing out of, but Hemlock and Canadice are close. They can be tough, but with the 10hp/17' boat restriction, it's quiet and no wakes to deal with. A view of Canadice

Totally false. Get in some better boats. My Commander 140 tracks extremely well, is fast, and I can easily stand and fish. There are several others out there as well.

I like @Choporoz's idea, and toss one more to the mix. http://sfttackle.com/ SFT is like TW "east." A very nice, family operation.

Nice mud shark! Kings are a blast.

1. DO NOT LEAVE HOOKS IN FISH. 2. Anything more than 90 seconds is an eternity. You can't manage that, start eating your catch.

So. Many. Cheeks! Yum!

Just go slow. I had an old reel I used for shore fishing that had a banged up spool lip, and polishing it worked. Didn't make it look any prettier, but it wasn't nicking my line anymore.

Find a good outboard mechanic, and always demand a compression test on the cylinders, and a test drive on the water. The compressions should be within 10% of each other. When on the water, make sure EVERYTHING works.

I'd try jewelers polish and a buffing wheel on a Dremel rotary tool. I think the polish/buffer accessory kit comes with the polish. If you were going to sand, I'd be looking at wet sanding in grits closer to 1000.

I'd put G3 in a class above Tracker. In fact, they are the Yamaha counterpart to Skeeter.

For the 130, I'm using the new Okuma EVX-CB-701MHb cranking stick. The reel is spooled with 15# Seaguar Rippin' mono.