J Francho

As far as it will go. All the way down. I wouldn't worry too much what the gauge says about trim. It's a feel and ability thing. Too much trim, and you feel it get squirrelly. The RPM, so long as you don't go over 5500 rpm (that's just a guess on the redline for that motor), you should be fine.

Trim the engine all the way in. Put her in gear, and slowly push the throttle until you're on plane. Trim out slightly until your bow is up out of the water, but not so much that it's porpoising. That motor should have a rev limiter, so no worries of over throttling.

What kind of boat is this?

I'd seriously quit fishing if I had this kind of self imposed limitation.

Rope it in, man! My memory is shot.

It's totally worth the $30 for the CI4+. I have three OG CI4 reels, 2x 2500 and a 3000. Still serving me well after several years.

You are confusing a replacement program with a warranty. The cost of the replacement program is baked into the retail price of the rod. While I am a fan of Saint Croix (I have more than 20), this does come into price consideration when comparing rods. If a rod doesn't break in the first couple months, any breakage after that is user error.

I thought the original product was Gorilla braid, or something similar. That would have been around 1989/90ish.

Sorry, you want Direct Link. I posted this from my iPhone. Way easier than any of that PC bologna.

It's two drop lists and a button. Pick the size, how long you want to retain it, and push the button. Choose a pic from your library. When it's finished, copy the link, and paste it here. It's not that hard.

There's was a fish I caught three times, all on a black/blue jig (same jig, in fact). Each time it was a slightly different weight, but around 6 lbs. It had a very distinctive spot on it. After that season, I never caught it again. I assume someone caught it and kept it.

https://postimages.org/

You want a VERY tough, and somewhat stretchy line that absorbs impact shock for bigger swimbaits. One false move, or a over run, and kiss your $100 swimbait good bye. Ask most experienced swimbaiters, and they'll tell you CXX.

1. No such rod truly exists. Though, you could get away with the SC rod you listed. I have a custom build on an SCIV79HF that works great for 1-4 oz. baits. Larger baits require a XH. My suggestion, is to spend the money on the rod you'll use the most, and if you need to add to that, get a reasonably priced rod like the heavier Okuma Guide Select rod. I have one for those times I want to chuck a 2x4. 2. I would NOT use fluoro on a swimbait rod. Most prefer a heavy duty line like CXX in 20-25# size.

Can't really help the OP, it just takes practice. But for this, a couple of half hitches will do the same, and you can lose the super glue.

Mostly 1/2 and 3/4. Depends on wind/drift.

Don't leave them on your hook either!

That would be their Gulp! line of baits.

Keep working at it. As the water cools, and the days grow shorter, you'll find a good, shallow, fall pattern after a couple days of stable weather. With all the frontal activity recently up here, it's been feast or famine.

You got probably one of the more informed answers on this forum. @deep knows his swimbaits.

20# P-Line CXX is all I need. I rarely go above 3 oz. baits.

I like this one. I have a couple more I can dig up.

It's gonna be hard to tell at all. You won't have any target separation. The whole SI/DI tech was designed to work with boat movement. There is new tech, like Humminbird's 360° scan, or Garmin's forward scan that would work when you are stationary. That's just the limitation of SI/DI.

Still, good advice for maintaining spinning gear.

I think the OP is referring to memory, not line twist.