J Francho

Get help - depression sucks. If this truly is your rock bottom, then be grateful. It feels REEEEEAL bad, but it's not that bad.

JJ's or bust.

My spinnerbait rod is generally loaded with 12# CXX, though this past year, I tried Tuf-Line Supercast in a similar diameter (can't remember exactly the size), and I liked the no stretch factor, while avoiding the limpness and noise of traditional braid. You have to retie often with this line, though not more than with a mono or copoly.

Don't over load it. If you ever had a Daiwa, many come loaded with grease. As long as the plastic "Y" springs in the roller cage can move, when the roller bearings are engaged (instant anti-reverse), then it won't slip. A good gold lithium grease or a moly will do well. Takes some of that "precision" away, but adds buttery smoothness. I generally went vapor thin film of TS 321 for most guys reels, but some liked the buttery feel. I like buttery on my moving bait reels.

Yes. Been doing it for years. No failures.

This is "clear" water: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqCLApHsqzs

I haven't used pork rind in years.

Tendinitis dictates two handed casting, so as much as liked them, they're too uncomfortable these days.

Tannic.

Ever fish a jig vertically? It's like that, but with less movement. Pay attention, bites can be really light. Take a spin through our articles and videos - there literally TONS of stuff on drop shotting there.

I use 8' rods in a kayak with no problem. Rod angle is rod angle, regardless of length. Don't high stick it. A longer rod is easier get around the bow should the fish turn on you.

4# Trilene XL is what I put on my UL setup. It's worked for years and years. Suffix Elite works well, too. Almost the same at that diameter.

Sounds like normal wear. Flush and repack the roller with lithium grease, and it should go back to like new. If you flush and go to oil, I bet it stays the same. What you're feeling is the pins engaging the the roller tube. As the lube deteriorates and disperses, they get a little loose. The tube surface that contacts the pins in the AR bearing also wears a little sometimes, so perhaps that could be inspected by a pro. It's not a pricey part if it needs replacement.

CERN is in Europe.

Not really hard to tell what he wants to know, if you read the posts thoroughly.

Shifting poles now? I thought this about the axis. LOL. Whatever, you're skirting political ground here.

I have as many <7' rods as I have >7. I probably have more 7' rods than anything else.

Oh my....

It's dye and scent. Very likely it's proprietary, though I'm sure you could find some dye and garlic scent and make your own. It's probably less expensive and easier to just buy another bottle. I recommend trying JJ's Magic. I prefer it to any other products, though there is no black.

You aren't going to throw it on spinning gear, but you can peg a bullet weight to a crank. Usually takes less than 1/4 oz. to sink it. Reel it down to running depth, then let it sink - you can use the countdown method here. Then gently pump the rod as you reel up slack slowly. It's called "jacking a crankbait." There's videos out there for it.

I have a Stolquist Fisherman and a couple of AI models I use. I prefer the AI.

I am better at learning because I teach others what I think I already know. The more I fish, what I think I know becomes less, lol.

I know some companies will send out a tip kit. Perhaps MB would do something similar.

This past year I mainly threw a walking popper. Did really well with it. Never seemed like there was a bad time to throw it.

I find that they are either super aggressive sometimes moving 10 yards or more to take a bait. Other times, they will check it out, but not bite. Bass often eventually bite if you persevere, but bowfin can be frustrating. I catch my best bowfin during bass tournaments, lol.