Linewinder

UL baits on BC? Like 1/16th or 1/32nd? Closest I'll try -- meaning not spending a lot of money to try -- is my Ryobi V-Mag3. I doubt it can do that either, but oh well, I'll stick with my spinning stuff. I think fishing is fun, no matter what type of reel.

Well, how far back do you want to go? You can still buy, but not new, Ryobi reels like the V-Mag4. No, it's not all I have, but it works. I even took my AD5000V on a trip last year. The only parts I've replaced on these, and nothing else has broken, are the level-wind pawls. Easily both are 30+ years. Ultralight? Spinning. Penn 716Z, although it appears to me that they cost adjusted more now used than new. Just replaced the one ball bearing for more years of use. How about the Mitchell 308?

I'd like to watch someone cast that to 145 yds. on a spinning outfit.

Alabama bass? Here in Virginia our Department of Wildlife Resources (formerly Dept. of Game & Inland Fisheries) is warning us of this invasive bass. https://dwr.virginia.gov/wildlife/fish/alabama-bass/?utm_source=mailchimp&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=nftf&utm_content=nftf_fishing_july2020 Honestly, I doubt I'll be able to tell these apart sometimes. Some sort of stripes on the white sides.

I'm guessing this has been said, but I'll say it anyway: Litter, leftover fishing line, crowding fisher people including those in boats. That stuff will pis... push my buttons. Oh, and loud people.

Doyo?

Yup. Some skirted spools (metal) have sharp edges. The old push-button spools are nice, one of the benefits of the rear-drag reels.

Hey Brian. Quite a bit of the talk above shows that most manually close the bail, but that doesn't answer your question. Someone mentioned some research toward that more directly, but I can definitely say that by the mid-'80's I was closing my bail then (on a Shimano reel), but I still used an automatic bail with other reels. As far as line twist, if you follow the physics as was mentioned earlier, you will see that the other comments are true in that the bail itself (manual close or automatic) does not and cannot cause line twist -- line twist is mostly inherent to spinning/spincast reels. Perhaps better rolling line guides help with twist, but I don't know. As far as line loops, pulling up slightly on the rod and consequently putting a little more tension on the line from the spool helps when closing the bail -- but apparently up until the line is very twisted. Pulling on the line or poking a finger in while closing the bail helps in the same way. But I find the loops more of a function of line twist than bail type. I tested this by closing the automatic bail on slack line so that if the line was twisted it would have done so (visibly), but the bail closes without causing loops -- did this on at least 3 reels of different ages and makes. When the line was severely twisted, slack line at the spool tended to result in loops. What I did notice, which is only minutely interesting and is irrelevant here, is that the older auto-close bail reels took less force to close than those I have with manual close bails when closing them automatically, even though the manual-close reels having what appears to be smaller springs. Maybe the ease on the auto-close reels is a function on my reels of the weight of the rotors (momentum).

3-rod version: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/guide-gear-7-foot-6-inch-3-rod-and-reel-case?a=255767

Deja vu. Mine were these two also -- well, spinning reels. Still have the 716Z. My first reel was a lousy Zebco 202 ~1970.

I'd suggest talking the fine folks here: https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3479

I wonder if it is the level wind pawl -- worn out.

So the discussion has turned to speculation about your original posit.

I just wipe mine down, and do maintenance internally that will remove the dirt inside. Usually once a year, but may re-oil the spool more often. I don't think it will hurt because reels are implied to be wet. But I do wonder like you, if it drives grit inside, or if the water inside doesn't evaporate will it get involved in the grease or cause oil to displace. Smarter and more experienced minds than mine abound on this site.

I don't know about sleeper, but I still like my Ambassadeur Mag I Plus. From mid-'80s. Disengaging level wind for casting, long handle (well, longer than the others I have from back then), smooth spool spin but the reel is a little geary when retrieving as it always was. Good line retrieve for crankbaits -- not a speed demon but isn'tvery slow either. Not low profile but more like the round reels. I never really liked the "flipping" switch, but normal casting/thumb works well for backhand or pitching casts. This one has the spool release behind the spool, but other similar models have it on the side.

Not sure which model it is -- there are reel schematics at Pflueger website https://www.pfluegerfishing.com/Reel-Schematics/reel-schematics,default,pg.html.. But as @garroyo130 has suggested, perhaps the slider is not fitted to the oscillating gear. So, as a brief diversion before getting back to the solution, what reels are in your LINE EATER REELS box, @Fishes in trees ?

And Rappahannock, above fall line. Meaning, Fredericksburg. There is also the Phelps WMA.

You are a very thoughtful person and it sounds like she is an awesome lady. Hope the best for her. I'm thinking that a longer rod, if she has a short rod now, may help casting if there is one out there that is lighter, new or old. I'm also thinking Berkley Solutions line. I purposely got this for a small narrow diameter spinning spool and it has worked well there. Both spinning or spincast reels will twist the line, and will need untwisting periodically, but the Solutions seems to handle it longer. I've only had it about a year so I guess it'll last through the season. Some others may have ideas on line but the idea is thin, slick and less coiling so the casts are naturally longer and she won't need to work at it as much. Those Zebco cast buttons are a little strange but I got used to it. What it is: a rubber cover to keep dirt out, it seals around the opening, but it also slides around the internal thumb lever so it feels a little disconnected. Has anyone any experience with the Abu-Garcia spincast reels? And, I keep hearing praise for the Daiwa Goldcast (above) but I notice that it only uses a single ball bearing, while the Silvercast uses 3. Is it better machined, different design, smoother feeling retrieve?

That reel is begging to have a spool tension cap. Does the spool move much left and right? Anyway, "Not knowing what your gear can help you with is only going to hurt you" sums up advice very well. That's why when I need to cast light lures, I'll pick up the spinning rod and not fight with the baitcast reel.

I started with reels before there were ball bearings in the affordable ones, and the spool tension knob was used, but I just turned it in enough to keep the spool from rattling around in the bushings left to right (too loose), otherwise distance was sacrificed. Once I got the just-enough tension, I didn't change it for any lure weight. When the magnetic controls came I adjusted those for my casting, after setting the spool tension with the magnets on zero. Nowadays, the spool bearings seem to do a good job keeping the spool from rattling around but I still adjust it once for just enough free fall (not slow), no matter the weight being cast or distance. Habit. Am I going to cast as far as you? No. I also play around with an old Pflueger Supreme direct-drive reel -- you know the kind where the handle spins while casting. Most times the distance just isn't there but I still don't adjust the spool tension once set, but I do adjust the friction control as needed. The adjusters are worn out. That'll teach you how to use a thumb. But I manage to cast backhanded lower to the surface. It's not a go to reel, just for funs.

Daiwa 8100A, 8200 (and larger 8600 salt water size, probably like a 6000)

When the level reaches a point that it just doesn't pay to cast, I use it as backing. When the knot starts showing and interferes with casting, it's time to re-line.

Long, long ago, my brothers and I learned we preferred Trilene XL for spinning reels and XT for baitcasters. When we did use XT on spinning we quickly learned not to because of the stiffness would spring off the spool, while XL would lay nicely. Fast forward to recently when I found a remaining spool of 10 lb XT in the garage -- chalked over but still seems strong (although I didn't do a weight test yet). I put it on a vintage reel (Garcia Mitchell 300A) so that I had something to work with, but it is working very well on that reel. It's not coiled and it's not springy. The reel twists it but it still lays nicely through and beyond the guides. I also use regularly on baitcasters the remaining of a very large spool of Berkley Trimax (tripolymer) 10 lb that has always been kept in the basement in the original tub -- I've never noticed a difference because of its age. Both of these lines are easily over 30 years. Oh don't throw things at me -- I'm telling you these things work. Is it possible some monofilament lines get better in some aspects with age? Do you use old line? I don't mean old line on your reel, but old line from the original spools.

I've been on the Zebco site recently devouring the different spincast reels there. It seems there isn't really one that has all the best combinations of the number or bearings, the IPT (retrieve length), the weight, the size, the shape, an oscillating spool, the price, etc. I thought the Platinum has a good balance of features. But none will tell you how far they cast -- that depends upon you and other factors. IMO, maximum distance isn't everything, but it sounds as though a respectable distance isn't coming to her. Coiled line really degrades distance. I think good line is key, some say braid. I asked Zebco recently and the response was they were really designed for 10 lb mono, and that is what they recommend, but if you do try braid go with the same line diameter. I'm sticking with mono, or mainly a copolymer monofilament. Proper line level helps too -- definitely don't overfill. A longer rod gives a little more distance (leverage). Speaking of rods, line slap between the reel and first guide degrades distance also -- think of that coiled line. A closer first guide helps, as I found when rebuilding a short spinning rod last year. There was a Shakespeare Synergy Classic that works well, but I don't see a peep of that anywhere now -- smooth and tight, casts good distance but probably lacks power for larger fish. The Daiwas get a lot of comment and use. I can cast about as far as some spinning outfits with my Zebco Omega Pro Z03, but that is heavier/bigger than the Z02. The Pfluegers seem good (enough) as being fairly tight without bearings -- I've seen sleeved bushings in one of those in ultralight underspincast.

In Virginia, that may be true, depending upon where it is. Some counties are covered by King's law (I believe that is what it is called) and others by Common law. VDGIF should know, if you ask them ahead. Don't ask me how I found that out -- I'll deny it.