Linewinder

Ah. Haven't had the pleasure yet.

I'm not sure that is the sort of confidence a fisherperson should have ? Of course, I'd think I could do almost as good as KVD.... if I were in his boat and he took me around on his favorite lake But I would use my own stuff, because that is what I'm comfortable with. I'd try his stuff if he offered.

Keep the handle side upright before taking off the side cover. Springs usually stay put so you can remove those first.

One thing that really bothers me about typical spincast rods is a deficiency of line guides, where the line rubs the blank when bent under load. Sure, turn the rod slightly. Recently I was in a local Dick's Sporting Goods and saw this combo Prophishiency Spincast Combo A rod with an action I would expect on a spincast outfit being a little more flexible but with backbone, perhaps should be labeled with a moderate to fast action -- something not too different than very old spincast rods I have (like a Heddon) but very low weight. Simple stainless steel guides. I can't recall the exact number but do know it was at least 6 plus the tip guide. I thought the reel was useless in long term and $40 might be a bit much for an IM6 rod, however I may go back for it just for fun. I think it would be enjoyable.

Hmmm... Perhaps the "Berkley Tactics Popping Edition 7ft Med Action" with one of those Ambassadeurs??? Is it a straight or pistol grip? And that "Berkley Graphite Lighting Rod (unsure of action) 5 feet 4 inch length with Mitchell 300x Spinning Reel 6.1:1 ratio" is probably something I'd use for wade fishing for smallmouth... I have that reel -- not special but it is a decent reel. I've been playing with my old pistol grip rods lately, and am learning to use 2-hand casting -- saves some stress on these old wrists. Plus, they still seem to work ok with underhand casting short distances (worm; jig). Berkley Lightning, Bionix, Cherrywood and Fenwick rods.

Never know what you'll catch! Actually, I wonder if the worm gear set in the Penn's can outlast the other designs.

I have my 716Z from early 80's. I used it mostly for wade fishing streams so it mostly never got put down and shows not much wear for its use. Anyway, I recently got around to replacing the bearing because it was worn out, most probably from the rotor imbalance. If anyone is unfamiliar with these Penn reels, there is only one ball bearing assembly in them, at the rotor. Even still, the smoothness and strength of these reels rivals the more expensive of today. So after replacing the bearing I haphazardly hot-glued some weight into the rotor to better, but not perfectly, balance it. Hopefully this will work, not fly out while fighting a fish and keep the bearing longer. I wish I could remember how much I paid back then, and I'd really like to see the old models benefit from CAD refinements and CNC processes, but surely that would cause a detrimental price increase.

These braided nylon lines... are the diameters similar to mono lines in same lbs test? Perhaps a 10 or 12 lbs braided line.

So much style. The young padawan * reels of today look like cars to me. I'm predicting this thread will become one that lasts many years, or at least I hope so. * https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Padawan

Hi Bulldog. Some of us know you from ***another web site*** where we enjoy your varied and extensive (massive!) knowledge. Where you say "Backlash control is imbalance wobble in the spool, and your grandfather may have glued a nickel inside his old Marhoff spool to get the same effect", I'm having trouble picturing this and how it worked, but am intrigued. Do you by chance have any examples? And thanks for the info about the oil.

If not gears that make a reel feel "geary" *, then what? I'm thinking a slightly larger tolerance in alignment of shafts, but I'm not a mechanical engineer. Bad bearings may make it feel rough or noisy, but would that make it feel "geary" as well? * like a Mitchell 300, where it sounds like a can opener.

Maybe this?

NIce work and ideas. Was there a metal tube running the length of the canoe wedged in by the original seats, to give the hull some rigidity? I have a Pelican polyethylene canoe like that, something similar: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/pelican-touring-canoe?a=196589

For a reel that has a few iterations and has been around for a long time (it started out as a round reel I believe), that price just never seems to change. That's what I paid some 10 12 years ago. So I've heard not to use 3n1 oil, just reel oil, and no grease on antireverse bearings. Stainless steel doesn't usually rust, but some can. I'm not a machinist, but I have replaced bearings (not antireverse) by measuring the existing bearings. I've found it easier to replace once you know that it is the problem rather than trying crutches on it by frequently lubing. A bad bearing is a bad bearing no matter how correctly lubed.

The short pistol grip might be easier to deal with on a kayak perhaps.

I had no trouble switching from right-hand BC when underhand casting because it is still casting with right hand. This is why I tried a lefty in the first place -- the left hand is immediately free to engage the reel. I've been needing to switch to 2-hand casting anyway, so this wasn't too different for me than using traditional spinning setup casting with right hand -- not exactly but getting there for longer casts. So now I pick up my right and left hand BC reels and go, but I have no intention of replacing the right-hand reels. I bought used lefties to try.

^^^ That's about it there. Most times I spool up line then go out back to walk off at least twice my usual casting distance and wind it back in something like you suggest -- tension at the spool but I leave the line floating untied in the yard. Most of the twist from the initial spooling is taken out. I haven't tried "resetting" line memory with hot water, but as the name suggests, there will always be twist (spin) -- it's an eventuality.

I have an old Pflueger Supreme, you know the type as "knuckle buster" where the handle spins as it is cast. Distance is terrible when compare to today's reels. I do wonder if the handle acts as a flywheel.... hmm? Anyway, the line guide travels with the line exactly in and out. I find that if the level wind pawl is in good shape and there is no backlashing during the cast, the line cast and retrieve lays smoothly across the spool. Somehow it is pleasing to watch. But I think this is more of a technology/manufacturing design compromise than a real purpose. However, in other reels that the level wind guide is disengaged (but doesn't float with the line travel * ) I find (see) and hear the line pulling across the remaining line on the spool as it is cast, surely providing some resistance. The best scenario is when it is in the center. I think it is Diawa that is recently addressing this with a flip down/up guide that is T-shaped to provide a wider area for the line to cast through so that the angle of departure from the edges of the spool are not as sharp. * In the land of Ambassadeur there are older models as you know that disengage the level wind guide so that it mostly floats with the line peeling off the spool. I say mostly because there are springs on either side that assist in re-engaging it upon retrieve. I have experience with the Mag I Plus. It casts pretty darn far and well, but unfairly I almost only ever use it on a 7' rod. It also has a relatively narrow spool.

Maybe this will help too. https://www.bassmaster.com/tips/going-long

Well then Mr. St. Croix! Get a gooder reel. Curious though, what do you estimate/know your cast distance is now? You say average, but that may not be my idea of average. I'm guessing with a better reel, as you suspect, you'll get longer distances, but will that be enough anyway for your situation? The kayak is lightweight and can get you closer, but yes, does cost more usually than a reel. It can be more useful than a new reel however in other situations. Somewhere up the chain it was suggested that your rod isn't really capable of longer distances. That may be. Perhaps a longer would help -- generally true. However, loading a rod properly in cast can make even a shorter rod cast as long as an under-loaded longer rod. I have a <5' rod that can cast 3/8oz just as far as a heavier (lure weight) and faster 6 1/2 footer. Match the rod specs to what you'll be casting.

But wait please.... Most epoxies I see are two-part. How does this then get injected?

Nice. I'm guessing that's not painted cork. Looks grippy too. I like down-locking reel seats on spinning rods. What's the rest of the rod like, or the specs?

Did that once too. I dropped the boat in the water, pulled the rope to get the boat beached at the ramp. When I took the trailer out I didn't think about the wake and the stiff breeze. Parked and came back to see my boat out about 30 yds. Mid-March so the water was somewhere perhaps in the lower 50's, but I jumped right in with boots, jacket and cotton jeans (worst). Once back in the boat I found that I could match the speed of the breeze so it wasn't too cold going out but made sure I fished in the sun all morning.

What's a long cast?* Yeah, it may be relative to the reel, but if you want to get the most out of the reel you have, perhaps thinking of the rod tip traveling in a straight line (try to minimize the arc) at the moment of line release will help with the motion and mechanics using your current setup. A longer rod may help, or a different action. Play with how much line is out from the tip for the cast. Let the rod work, not you. * I have many BC reels but only one (maybe two, as a gift) that would have been barely over $100 new but I have only borrowed more expensive reels. So I don't know the real (pun intended) pleasure of better reels, usually just mediocre. I cast centrifugal brake reels, magnetic brakes and probably another type (not sure) and with my rods pushing 40 yds is a haul. 30-35 is normal, casual casting about 25, but I'm not out fishing for distance. Shoreline and canoe both for me. I am switching to 2 handed casting, but always right-handed no matter if BC or spinning. Also, I use light line.

The news report I read (still looking for the source) is that the Z series (Spinfisher?) reels were reintroduced to US manufacturing. I believe previously Penn discontinued the product, I may be mistaken. But these 2 reels are not freshwater fishing models, or not intended for that. https://www.pennfishing.com/collections/saltwater-spinning-reels/products/z-series-spinning-1315424 Made of domestic and foreign parts in Pennsylvania. It piqued my interest because I have a Penn Spinfisher 716Z from way back that is USA-made. They look like from the same family. I'd be pleased in having a mid-size version, but a $200 price range is out of market at the moment for me.