islandbass

good question. Tackle Tour has reviews on both I believe. Check them out.

This is going to probably be the only recommendation for this rod, but the lamiglas certified pro drop shot special I or II. I have the I and it is a very awesome rod. It's so sensitive that it is almost not fair for the fish. ;D

Call me strange, but I think you're worrying over nothing. The only thing you need to do is have, quality, focused practice. I pitch with a 7' rod all the time and will flip when I need to. I am also shorebound and still do both. Your height should not be an issue. All you need is practice with the timing. I tell you this as some one speaking from experience and more importantly as someone who is shorter than you.

Very good point on braid and trebles. I learned a hard lesson, but with the proper adjustment, braid can be used with treble baits. My method is simple. Use sharp hooks to begin with and simply let the fish set the hook on themselves. Since that first loss, I have never ever, ever, ever lost a fish with braid and trebles. You practically don't set the hook. Just crank up the line to get it taut and the fish does the rest. Almost like a drop shot hook set. As for guides, any modern rod with aluminum oxide guides is braid worthy.

The pic might be "doctored." Take a look. http://www.nwbasser.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3994 ;D ;D ;D

That is probably an okay price. They are had for about $80-95 NIB elsewhere. I have an old greenie myself but I would prefer to spend the extra $ to get a citica E. Now for $50, maybe. I wouldn't bite for $70.

Sharkbite, I'm just sharing what I learned from experience. Drop a line and go get 'em! 8-) Can't wait 'til you get addicted to it. ;D Hammer, I've had decent success with the 3" skinny senkos and even caught a perch on one. What length senkos do you use?

That is what I call "line dig". There are things you can do to avoid or minimize it, but it should not be a show stopper. The thinner the braid, the greater chance this line dig can occur. 20# braid and under is going to be a bit more susceptible for the angler with little experience. Get 40# or higher to minimize it. I use 30# and don't have issues with line dig anymore because I have learned to practically eliminate it. This line dig will occur when you have: A very thin diameter braid like 20# and you encounter a snag in which you attempt to free the snag using your rod and reel. When you do this, the force you exert with the rod and reel will make the braid to "dig" into itself. Of course, you will not notice this until you make your next cast. You make your cast and your lure practically stops mid air and slows when the line that has dug in has reached the top of the spool. This is more prevalent with lighter weighted baits. Heavier baits can sometimes help the braid to break free. It can also occur when you strip line off of the spool when the drag is set very tight. Solutions: 1) When freeing a snag, take the rod and reel out of the equation. Pull off enough line to work with so that you don't involve the rod and reel. Be careful when handling braid with bare hands. When taut it can slice you skin like a knife. 2) If you have to pull line off after your cast, do so with either a lighter drag setting, or better yet keep the reel in free spool mode until you paled out the line desired. If you get a bait, your thumb will already be there to serve as the make shift drag to set the hook. 3) Until you get more experience, don't use anything braid less than 30#. Other than that, there shouldn't be anything else that should stop you from at least trying braid. It has its advantages.

Islandbass' Take on the Drop Shot I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have grown fond of the Drop Shot technique in my short, four-season fishing journey. I have been using it for just over a season's time. This is a very productive method to catch fish in a variety of states. In my first outing for smallies this season, I hooked and caught 3 smallies on three consecutive casts. It is the only method that has done this for me to date, and from the shore to boot. At the very least, I can share with you what I have learned through trial, error, and experience (which isn't much). Basic Drop Shot Diagram Here is a generic set up. Rod and Reel Type You don't need a Drop Shot specific rod. A medium-light to medium-action rod from 6'6" on up to 7' should work for you for now, unless you plan to fish heavier cover. If you find drop shotting to your liking, you can then opt to go with a Drop Shot specific rod of your choice. As a rule of thumb, a longer rod will enable you to have more line control and leverage; two big pluses in drop shotting. I prefer spinning reels (a size 20 or 2500 reel is an excellent choice) because they require less work to give the bait a better (IMHO) descent than a baitcast reel. Sorry baitcast reel users, but the way a spinning drops the bait (for ¼ oz weights and less) smokes a baitcast reel any and every day for drop shotting. To those who use baitcast reels exclusively, please note I said for drop shotting in its basic, finesse form (lighter lines, weights, and smaller baits). There will not be a need to strip line off just to make the bait fall. With that said, casting reels can also be used. I just prefer a spinning reel. You may use whatever reel you want. Even a Barbie pole can get it done for drop shotting! However, I would not hesitate to use heavier line, weights, larger baits and a baitcast reel if I were to drop shot heavy cover. Something I call Alpha Shotting! Drop Shot Weight and Type A 3/16 - 1/4 oz weight is a good starting weight. Going any lighter might make it harder for you to read what is going on until you get experience. As for the shape, I like to use either the teardrop (WCCT weights rock!) or cylindrical shape and prefer the former as my first choice. I have not experimented with other shapes. Windier conditions and stronger currents might make you want to choose a heavier weight, but let's not worry about that for now. Line Because you are drop shotting, lighter line is preferred if the cover you are fishing allows it. Go up in # strength if the cover dictates this. I like and use 6# fluorocarbon, particularly Seaguar's Invizx. This line kicks fanny. No doubt about it. The plus in going with fluorocarbon in a higher # test if needed is despite having a slightly thicker line diameter; the angler retains the benefit of fluorocarbon's trait of near invisibility as advertisers so claim. Whichever line you choose, I think the fluorocarbon line of your choice will be fine. I know that some also prefer to use braid. I know the benefits of braid and am not against it and maybe someday I'll use it with a fluorocarbon leader. Given the amount of sensitivity my rod and line provide me, I just don't have a need to take it up a notch to braid for the typical depths I fish, which is usually no more than 20'. If you plan to fish greater depths, braid may very well be the ticket. The enhanced sensitivity braid provides can be a plus. Baits Keep an open mind here. Many baits of a variety of shapes can be used. The general rule of thumb is a tendency to use smaller baits since we are "finesse" fishing (translates to downsizing in general). The typical length of a drop shot bait usually ranges from 3" - 4.5" but this is NOT set in stone. Roboworms, Senkos, Sniper Snubs and Bolts (the latter two are locally made baits), Reaction Innovations Flirts, and heck, even Baby Brush Hogs and Tubes can be used. Think out of the box. I have used longer worms too. This season, the 4.5 Roboworm (in Aaron's Magic) and Sniper Snubs in Watermelon and Dark Brown have been so effective that to date I have not seen a need to try something else or other colors. It might be different for bass in other waters. If you wish to know, so far the most effective baits for me have been, the snubs and roboworms. Here is a picture of a smallie I caught on a longer Roboworm hoping for a bigger smallie. The darn Roboworm is nearly as long as the smallie! Hooks/Knot I prefer to use size 1 or 2 (mostly size 2) Owner Mosquito or Gamakatsu Split Shot/Drop Shot hooks. If I am fishing a grassy area in which grass can catch the exposed hook, I opt for the Owner Down Shot hook, which is in essence a mini version of an EWG (extra wide gap) worm hook. Naturally, if you plan to drop shot much larger baits, you might need to go up in hook size. I attach the hook to the line with a Palomar knot and after it is tied, I insert the extra line (tag end) through the hook's eye before attaching the weight. Tag End Length (Distance from the hook to the weight) The best way to figure this out is to experiment. I have had success with the tag end being as short as 4-6" to nearly but not quite 24. Because drop shotting is not limited to a purely vertical presentation, a longer leader is a good idea if you wish to work it somewhat like a Texas or Carolina rig. The longer leader length or tag end (which I define here as the distance between the weight and your hook, perhaps 18" as a ballpark figure) will enable you to keep the bait off the ground with the shallow angle that will result from a long cast. For a more vertical presentation, a shorter distance from the hook to the bait can work. Another influencing factor is the depth at which the fish are staying. You might need to adjust your tag end accordingly. Imparting Life to the Lure Despite the initial perception of working this lure, it is not all about jiggling and wiggling the bait to death. An angler can indeed work the bait this way, but I can tell you from personal experience, that wiggling and jiggling the bait to death (continuously) has accounted for the fewest number of catches. By no means am I saying to not wiggle and jiggle it to death. That is only one method. So what should one do in addition to the wiggling/jiggling tactic? Keep the weight on the bottom for the most part and leave enough slack to let the bait sink on its own weight. Then, when you think the bait is near the bottom lift/twitch the rod just enough to move the bait a little (without moving or minimizing the movement of the weight on the bottom) and repeat. In effect, what you are doing is working a semi-slack line and this is what is imparting action to the bait. No hits? Repeat if you wish, or add a little dead sticking to the mix or, drag your bait to the next spot. All are good choices. The dragging of the weight from one spot to the next also imparts life and action to the lure and can help to draw a strike. In addition, working with the slack and dead sticking have been far more effective for me compared to wiggling and jiggling the bait to death. Not sure what the bait will do? Find some shallow water and drop your bait down. The depth should be one where you can see all the way to the bottom. Once the weight is on the bottom, let your bait fall by lowering your rod. Before the lure hits the bottom, raise the rod's tip enough to bring the lure up, and do your best to keep the weight in place. Watching this will give you an idea of what will likely be happening when you are not able to see the bait with your own eyes. Visualizing what the bait is doing when I can't see it helps me to focus on what I am trying to do, and that is catching fish. Concerned about not being able to feel the bite on this semi-slack line if you are using fluorocarbon or braid? Let me put you at ease. It is not an issue. Either of those lines combined with a sensitive rod is more than adequate to feel the bite when the line has a bit of slack. The Strike or Hit The strike or hit can vary depending on the activity level of the fish, the quality of your set up to a certain extent, and the line you are using. More sensitive rods do a better job of transmitting what is going on to you. I have had the blessing of drop shotting with my Berkley Cherrywood Rod, which is decent and not too shabby, but comparing it to my Lamiglas Certified Pro Drop Shot rod is something else. Here is my analogy: If the Cherrywood rod provides stereo sound to me while watching a DVD movie, the Lamiglas rod gives me the sound in THX, for the full cinema experience. The latter rod is not necessary to enjoy drop shotting, but it makes it a lot easier to feel and detect the subtle strikes. The line you use can also influence the feel of the strike. My experience working with both mono and fluorocarbon is that the latter always seemed to give me a better picture. We all know now that although FC line can have as much or more stretch than a comparable monofilament line, it is likely that its density still enables it to beautifully transmit information from the end of our line, to the rod and to our hands. We all know how well braid transmits data back to the angler too so I don't think I need to elaborate further. The hit or strike can feel like: 1) A mushy tug or tick, which could translate to a complete inhalation of your bait or the fish attacking the lure from the hook's side. 2) A nibble or nibbling, that transmits vibrations through the line to you. Sometimes you can see or feel the line vibrate through your semi-slack line. More sensitive rods tell you this much better and more clearly. I believe when the hit is like this (my best guess anyway as I visualize the strike), it is possible that the fish might have taken the lure from the side opposite the hook and the nibbling/vibrations you feel is the fish taking in the bait into its mouth, eventually getting to the hook. 3) Bam! An aggressive hit and it's on! The Hook Set For one and three, just reeling up the slack and adding enough tension to make the line taut is sufficient for most cases to drive the light wire hook home. For case two, you have to wait until the fish gets to the hook and then do as mentioned above. If you don't, you will pull the lure from the fish's mouth. Since it didn't get to the hook, there is no way the fish can get hooked. I have written this based on the experience I gained from drop shotting. Take it for what it's worth, an opinion at best. I will close by giving you a final warning: WARNING: Drop Shotting is as addictive as it is effective. Good luck and go get'em! -ib (Alexander Arceo) Review of the 2007 Season The Drop Shot technique has been so effective for me even though it is my first season learning and using it. It has accounted for 100% of the smallmouth bass and about 70% of the largemouth bass I have caught this season, and I caught a lot, the most ever!!! And here is the thing that makes this even sweeter. They were all caught from the shore. No, this is not a testament to my skills, but a testament to the effectiveness of the Drop Shot technique.

Right on! I bought my first curado in the fall of one year and practiced out in my yard through the winter in the cold and rain. And I didn't give a thought to how weird my neighbors might have thought I was. ;D

If the sensation of Stretchiness is a concern to you, then invizx is NOT for you. If anything it feels quite simialr to a nylon monofilament line, but for me, that is exactly what I like about it and want from it. There are stiffer feeling fc lines out there that I bet would fit your bill, but I couldn't tell you what they are.

Congras on your new rig. One word of advice for you though. Spinnerbaits are one of the least aerodynamic lures by design and as a result they are not the bess lure to learn to pratice casting. Just buy yourself some bass casting weights at least 3/8 to 1/2 oz. This will keep your lures intact too since you won't be using them. You can buy a pack of bass casting weights at wal mart for less than $3 8-)

x2 Sunglasses, any glasses. Always

Dang, I feel for you. I hope you didn't get it as bad as these folks: That fleshy thing is part of a salmon and the treble looks deep. Now I don't know if these photos are real, but ouch!

That's spinning or casting time. ;D RL, There was a thread not too long ago about finding a combo for a child about the same age but for a girl. I can't recall the name of the thread, but there was a great deal of advice and recommendations in it. Trying the search function ought to find it. I really like the look of the AVS combos. There are stories of children as young as 6 who can handle a baitcaster. A rod no longer than 6' (5.5' would be cool) and go either spinning or casting. A spinning reel of about Size 20/2000 or one of your smaller casting reels. I think the cheapest option is to get the rod and let him use one of your reels. I got my daughter a Daiwa Strike force casting rod for $12.00 and that was the regular price at Sportmans Warehouse. She puts on either my Curado BSF or Curado 101D. She claims the latter as hers. What can I say? She's had me wrapped around her pinky since day one. ;D For Spinning I got her a Daiwa 1500 (like $10) and an 6' spinning rod, less than $20.00

The short answer is yes. This is how I spool my symetre no problems. This is not a lesser reel so enkoy the convenience of spooling as you would a baitcaster. No need to do it the hard way. The instructions in the manual are there for a reason... To show you how they recommend how to do it and since Shimano made the reel, who could be more qualified to suggest otherwise. Enjoy the convenience!

That's what I do. I put the piece of tape on the underside to keep it out of the way.

That was a great interview. I know that some people might not like how he goes crazy but I will say that although I am pretty reserve and maintain my composure when I catch a good sized fish, you can bet that inside I am "Ianconelli'ing it" (as I have dubbed it) inside all the way to the bank. I do fist pump too. This is one of the best classics I have ever seen, and it was exciting for me because I am a fan of both Skeet and Ike. Fo Sho!!!!! Hats off to both. 8-)

I think that is a wise move on your part. I used spray paint the first time around, but it just didn't work out. I too will wait until I get an airbrush. I also learned that it is easiest to take the whole reel apart and paint the parts separately.

What's the penalty for an accidental bird's nest? ;D Here is another game. Every competitor has their own cup of equal size as the target whatever distance in directly in front of them, say 30'. At the start, the goal is to land your bait into the cups of your opponents. If you land one in, they're. Last man wins. I suppose taking turns is the easiest way to avoid tangles

Yes, it is tough indeed to give tips. I am speaking from experience of a promising result to utter failure and a crappy result. Check out Tackle Tours site. There are a few posts there that are about painting reels. There is at least one, and I know of this because I started that thread. ;D www.tackleunderground.com

That might be tough to answer. Not all walmarts carry the same stuff. Since I live in the Pac NW, I would have to tell you fat chance of finding anything Bass worthy for cranks save an ugly stick. Try looking at your local shops.

Not so much a step down vs. a diminishing return for the $$, meaning that the IMX is ultra sensitive all by itself. What would be interesing to note is that if the weights of the rods IMX and GLX (same length/action) and how much they differ. I bet it won't be by too much Some folks say that they cannot discern a sensitivity difference while others can. I think the fun starts at IMX. I would buy a GL2 or GL3.

I hope not. I was just shocked to find out when I did. I too had the perception that it had less stretch than mono but in some cases, it didn't and that threw me for a loop. This stretch is not necessarily a bad thing IMHO. 8-)