gatorblazer

link to aux wiring http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/reading/automotive-wiring.htm Good write up to wire to backup lights from explorerforum.com, but should be universal to all. Reverse Lights Manual / Auto Modes A lot of states require the Stock Backup Lights be in place so your alternative is to add to the existing Lighting not replace it with other lights. Since you might want the lights to work when the Vehicle isn't moving or not use the newly added lights, it might be better to have a manually switched setup as well. Also, you will need to use a relay not just a switch, I know people do run the main power to a switch on the dash and then to the lights but even though the amperage will not be very high don't do it. Most backup lights are minimum of 55 watts each, so we will work from there. 55w x 2 = 110 watts total / ~12 volts = 9.16 amp or ~ 10 amp draw for the circuit. 10 amp in the circuit you could use 14-ga wire but just to make sure the lights get all of the current to work at their brightest, run 12-ga wire for the main power. OK here is the list of parts I would use, IMHO... : Relay - qty 1 Automotive Type Normally Open, Single Throw, The Relay should have four pins numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30. Pins 85 and 86 are to activate the Relay, Pin 30 is for the main power from the battery, on a fused line, and Pin 87 is the Load or the wire going to the lights. Wire (2 sizes) 1) 12-ga wire for the Main Power, this wire will be used to run 12 volts from the battery to the relay and on to the lights, so get enough. Measure the length of the vehicle and add another five or six feet just to make sure you have enough to get around anything that gets in the way, shouldn't cost a lot. Buy automotive wire not standard household wire, there IS a difference. Automotive wire is very flexible and resistant to oil, gas and other fluids. 2) 16 or 18 ga wire for the activation of the Relay, again get the same type of wire "Auto Type". The amount can be determined by where you will want the switch to be mounted in the vehicle, where the relay will be mounted and the location of backup switch is. Switch, SPDT, (Single Pole, Double Throw) This switch needs three pole in one line on the back of it. The Switch will only need to control a small amount of current so the best thing here is to buy something you like the looks of and let the rating fall where it may. It will need to be for 12 or more volts but that is all you will need to worry about but I do not think it will be a problem. (Note: Just thought of something, maybe a Double Throw Center-Off Switch might work better; you will be able to turn off the lights completely if you want to. Everything else about the switch should be the same). Fuse Holder, In-Line Type, Qty 2 One 20 or 30-amp rating. This is for the main power shut down just in case there is a short in the circuit. Placing it as close to the battery as possible will shut the power off faster with less voltage left in the circuit beyond the engine bay. One low amperage rated fuse holder for the Switch side of the circuit, between the Circuit Panel and the Dash Switch. IMHO, this is how I would do it: Mount the Relay under the Hood where you want it, close to the battery area is probably best but you decide. Mount the Switch where you want it, maybe an indicator light would be nice too. Maybe two to let you know the power is either to the manual side or the auto side. Run a 12-ga wire from the battery to a Fuse Holder then to the Relay pin 30. (Note: Make sure to add in the In-Line Fuse Holder between the Relay and the battery; closer to the battery is better). Run another 12-ga wire from pin 87 to the lights at the rear of the vehicle; this wire can be run to one light then jumped to the other. Run a 16/18-ga wire from the Circuit Panel to the Switch; (Note: Probably this wire will not have a fuse on it, so it might be a good idea to add a small value in-line fuse between the Circuit Panel and the Switch added safety). Connect the wire to either the top pole or the bottom pole of the Switch. How do you determine which one - this will determine if the lights will come on when the switch is up or down. I would connect it to work when the switch is up, down can be for the auto mode. Run another 16/18-ga wire from the center pole of the switch to the relay pin 86. From pin 85 run a wire to ground. (Note: Grounding of the Relay is usually through pin 85 but some relay do not have a pin 85 and the grounding will happen through the mounting bracket.) Depending on what power you tapped in the Circuit Panel, on all the time or on with the key, when you flip the switch you should get a reaction form the Relay, there should be a clicking. In turn there should be 12 volts in the 12-ga wire at the rear of the vehicle or if the lights are hooked up the lights will be on. The above is for the Manual-On hookup and should be completed first and tested to make sure it works then on to the auto-mode. You will need to locate the Reverse Switch, usually located on the Transmission or Transfer Case, SOMEWHERE under there. Find the wire, on the Reverse Switch, that has 12 volts in it when the transmission is in Neutral; you don't want that one. The other wire should have power in it when in Reverse but not when in Neutral. Is this as confusing to you as it is to me ? Now that you know which wire on the Reverse Switch that has 12 volts in it, when the trans is in reverse, splice and run a 16/18-ga wire from that wire to the other post on the dash switch. If I am not completely screwed up, when the Dash Switch is in the up position the lights in the rear should be on and when the switch is in the down position and the trans is in reverse, the lights should go on AND when the switch is in the middle position (if you got a center-off switch) the lights will be off no matter where the trans is. I think this will work; PLEASE ANYONE that sees a problem with this write up just say something before it is used and completely screws up the vehicle. Luck and ltr Dude... tell me if it works out and sorry if it catches fire,, it shouldn't. PS - One more thing... GROUNDING is the most common problem with the lights either not working or giving you trouble. To reduce the amount of problems from grounding one of two things can be done. 1) When connecting the ground wire to the frame, not the bumper, make sure to get to bare metal, use a conductive, non-corroding paste and use external tooth lock washers between the wire-lug and the frame and the wire-lug and the bolt or nut. 2) My way - run a 12-ga ground wire along with the power wire to the rear of the vehicle, attach the end in the engine bay to the negative side of the battery or to a stud that is attached to the battery and the end by the Lights should have all connections soldered. In fact all connections should be soldered, even lugs.

It might be better to put in a relay, run a hot wire from the battery, and just have the energizing lead for the relay come from the backup lights. That way the lights are on their own circuit and will not damage anything in your existing wiring. My thought for this is to wire up an aux light completely independent of everything else, mount it to my spare tire arm, and operate it from a switch in the cab. That way I can also light up the boat at night to trailer, check to see if anything is amiss while driving, or to tell a #$@ to get of my bumper

Is that a bama sticker I spy on the truck?

You'll be fine. I have a 15 glass boat with a 42lb motor and two batteries. It gets me through a full tournament day

The older 4 runners came in 4 or 6 cyl. Both were dogs HP wise, but would last forever. I had 250K on my 1986 22re before it died. Those were the cool 4 runners where the top came off and they were power nothing. I think that the newer ones (95~now) came in either 6 or 8 cyl, but the top stays on. >

I needed 16' crown moulding for a house project. My utiltiy trailer is only 8', so I hooked up the boat and put the moulding bow to motor. worked great!

depending on your transmission type it is around 2000lb for the manual and 3000lb for the auto. Sport Trac is not offered with a 3.0 v6 only a 4.0V6 or a 4.6 V8. 4.0 will give you 5500lbs.

All of your future no boaters thank you for getting the dual console. Good looking ride

Google GatorJet boats. They make a fishing model and have some used ones available. I have fished out of a friends several times and have been amazed at the abililities.

3.0 is 16/21 mpg 180 torque 4.0 is 15/20 mpg 238 torque 4.0 is only required on a 4x4 supercab model, however you cannot get it in a short cab, short box ranger. So if you want just a 2wd supercab, your ok. If you want just a plain short cab ranger, you can only get the 3.0. There are a few tricks to getting the 4.0 much better mileage, but i would have to kill you if I told you

explorerforum.com can help with this. They are, by far, the experts in the ford explorer/ranger field. As for the 4.0, why not go with it? I have 250K on mine, no leaks, tows great, and is good on the gas at 22mpg hwy. Not bad for an Explorer. The only issue that I forsee with the Ranger will be your choice of auto/manual. Some of the transmissions on the 3.0's in auto really really stunk. If your going to go 4cyl, then you really have no choice but to go manual as the auto's just dont have enough umph.

i change half of the water so not to shock em. I use a big Coleman cooler with a bubbler and yet to kill one due to livewell issues. Also, you want to wipe it down and let it fully dry every time you put it up.

Freeze Two litre bottles and use them during the day. The idea is to keep the water around 10 degrees of the same temp as the lake. Change water a few times during the day. You can also use rejuventate if you want, but I've had no issues with the 2 litre bottles and water change

The bad thing is, according the Collegiate website, you have to be an undergrad who is less than 25 years old to compete. I think that you should get a few guys together to start the club though. I'm sure with the money that is oozing out of Gainesville, finding someone with a bass boat shouldnt be that hard

Good luck. I thought about going up there the 16th, but might hit another coosa lake instead.

Saturday I saw a lot of people from Riverside up that were fishing the channel ledge. Looked like they were finese fishing. What Club are you with? Good Luck

What, you dont like doing the Captain Morgan's pose for 10 hrs? 8-) I've run a few boats that have them built in, and I love it. As soon as my new MinnKota shows up, I'll be putting one in mine.

From experience, bedliner is hot and slippery when its even slightly wet (morning dew). But the biggest reason that I switched to carpet from bedliner is the fatigue on your feet from it being a hard surface. I do, however, recommend painting your truck with bedliner. It was the best thing I have done in a long time.

My whole truck is painted with it, and I love it. However, I tried it on my casting deck, and as great as it held up, it was hot and I experienced more foot fatigue than when I had carpet. Plus it was slippery when wet. For the $30 at lowes, I would get carpet.

How did a 14' boat holding 10 people even make it from the dock?

There is a type of plug at Academy that is basically a check valve. It installs where it should, and as long as the pressure outside of the boat is greater than inside, it will remain closed. When you pull the boat out, it will open and drain whatever remains. You can also change your innie to an outie with a little cosmetic surgery

You know, if you had spent another $1k, you could have gotten a yellow trailer

steering wheel puller. any autozone will have it. My shaft has a key on it, so when you pull the old one off you will need to be careful that you dont lose parts like that. Academy sells aftermarket wheels for $30

can someone double check that formula? Is it length x width x 2 or Length + width x2? I dont know that I want to put a 150 on my 15' boat....