kikstand454

wish it was me getting it. :

i had one of those. not the same brand... but a plastic 10fter like that. be careful when loading and unloading it. the corners of the hull like to break and smash inward. dont hit rocks with it. i liked mine and fished out of it till it just wouldnt float safe anymore. no matter how much ductape i put on the corners.

i love them and i also cut the forward facing hook off both trebles to make it come over cover better.

i think actual "color" is the last peice of a very complex (or simple) puzzle. i think "shade" is more important than color. the only time i think color may be an overwhelming factor would be baits that dont move much in gin clear water. color selection is super fine tuning a discovered pattern.

all of this is great advice. all i can add is thati second the idea of motoring over the area and looking for cover and then after marking that... looking for baitfish. if theres no bait there wont be much there and if they are there they wont be too willing to play. however if you can find some cover.. you can always come back at different times during the day and see if the bait has moved up. and finally i have heard and recently read an article that on average... bigger fish are caught fishing UP an incline. from deep to shallow. maybe start that direction and give them something different to look at. everyone is bouncing jigs down that thing. bounce a spoon UP it.

i like em.

i do. and i love it. i dont seem to have the problem around rocks others have. i fish braid on oyster bars for reds. freshwater rocks are like glass marbles compared to that. true.. though i guess... i dont fish ON the oyster bars... just over and around them.... hmmmm.....

IN THEORY.... red is the first color of the spectrum to fade the deeper into the water you go. after 10 feet or so red hooks are useless. and by useless i mean they have even less of an impact than they do now. some people swear by them as the front hook on a crankbait. im gonna chalk that up to "maybe in clear water". red line doesnt disapear... it just becomes grey the deeper down it is... just like all the other lines. i used to use cajun line. and its ok... not because of the color really.. but its ok line. as long as you keep replacing it every other trip. change to yo zuri hybrid. youll be happy you did.

im in the market for 3700 size storage boxes. i need them for cranks and plastics... and everything really. the problem is i need alot of them and the prices are kinda steep. any secrets?

imo there is no need to buy pre made rigs for a carolina rig. its a waste of money and is limiting your options. theyre easy to make on your own. 1. cut 4ft off your main line. 2.slide a sinker (dependent on water depth,current and wind speed) then a GLASS bead on your main line. 3. tie on a barrel swivel to your main line. the hard part is done. 4. take your 4 ft leader and tie one end to the other side of your barrel swivel. 5. decide how long you want your leader... taking into account water clarity and possibly the height of the grass you may be throwing it in,,,, and tie on your appropiate size hook (3/0 in general) 6. put on your favorite plastic. if your new to it.. might i suggest a zoom trick worm or senko style bait as this seems to be a "numbers" kinda bait and will increase your confidence. 7. throw it anything that slopes. sanbars, points, banks, channel bends.... you get the picture. thas the easy version. simple and super effective!!!

there trully isnt anything that they make that i dont like. and their cheap too! personally... i probably use a trickwprm more than anything. next is a speedworm and then a horney toad. oh... grrr... and ol monsters.... see?

x2. i have found that for myself, reeling down and sweeping is the most productive hookset for dropshotting. its very much like a c-rig hookset. i also find that those times you get that solid bite... the one that is a jolt that tries to take the pole out of your hand... a wrist set with a sweep is better than letting them scare you into trying to cross their eyes. save the big hook sets for heavy cover/ shallow-ish water.

well. you can fish anything on either. its just some techniques are better suited for one or the other. in general.. power fishing (t-rig,c-rig,spinnerbaits,jigs,swimbaits.. etc.) are better for baitcasting reels. finesse fishing (shakyheads,senkos,dropshotting..etc) are usually better on spinning tackle. there are of coure exceptions to the rules. many people on here throw weightless plastics such as senkos and flukes on baitcasting gear. likewise many throw small versions of c-rigs and jigs and things on spinning gear. i personally go buy the rule that if im fishing on the bottom... and my bait and weight combined is a 1/4oz or less... i normally use a spinning rig. thats just me though. the size of a lure that can be thrown with your reel is determined by the action of the rod your using.

x2. also maybe go over how he deals with really thick wood cover. like multiple laydowns in a river or the like.

also.. this time of year your trout and reds may be up in your spring fed creeks or rivers seeking warmth. try to find a deeper hole in the creek and soak a shrimp on the bottom for reds, or a 1/4oz jig and gulp shrimp swam through for trout.

agreed. when sportsmans warehouse went out of business here.. i got some 15lb berkley100% flouro for dirt cheap. i put it on my worm/t-rig rod and fished it all last year, i liked it alot. it was tough and smooth and still today it has little memory though ive gone through alot of it on that spool because of abrasion. however.... im having a real hard time talking myself into buying another spool of it to refill this reel. the price just hurts to look at. what this tells me is that though i loved it... it wasnt so very much better that i immediately knowi want to buy it agin over just spooling up 15lb yo zuri and going with it. the price difference is just too much compared to the "advantages". im sticking to the yozuri unless i can get the berkley 70% off again.

i personally know nothing about them... but i would like to say WAY TO GO!! ive been drooling over them for years. lol. let me know how you like it!

hahah..i wish it was that simple here in fla. btw... off topic.. what is up with all us bass players on this site? youe like the 4th one ive noticed.

the guy i fish with also has one on his ranger. he uses it mainly for sight fishing and anchoring should he go ashore. it works extremely well and is fast and secure. myself being an inshore fisherman too... i drool over having one on my future rig. sorry you northern guys dont get it. for shallow water its the greatest thing since malt liquor. i guess its a florida thing. 8-)

i must be doing something wrong with both of these mao sites. i cant get depth contours or topo for the water/lakes on either site. without that.... the map is useless to me. lol. im confused. pretty sites though.

owner or gammys. on my saltwater/brackish baits i use penn- but theyre hard to find.

the clarus isnt much heavier than a compre.i think its a good deal and will work great for the tech. youre wanting to use it for. i kinda go by the theory that youre most expensive, most sensitive rods whould be your "bottom" rods. they are the most important in terms of sensitivity. "moving" lures youre looking more for toughness and comfort. so you want something light and strong... not nec. the most sensitive. so the clarus will be fine..i actually use a clarus for shakey heads... which goes against what i just said... but i have found it plenty sensitive for that. esp in a spinning rod.

i have some casting sinkers but recently i have just been using plain ol bullet weights with old swivels tied under them. so much cheaper.

that is awesome!

well the setups you have are pretty balanced and all you really NEED. since you said you also had a spinning set up for shakeys and such... i think its time you double up some of your rigs to avoid retying. maybe buy another revo to pair up with that 6.6 you already have to copy your "moving bait" rig. its nice to throw the same set up for the same presentation just different bait/color. do you need a specialty rig? flipping/punching mats? swim baits? i personally like to have a seperate rod (rods) for t-rig and c-rigs. maybe take the 7'er you have and throw c-rigs on it and buy a dedicated t-rig rod? id go high speed quantum and 6'6 mh/fast shimano compre rod. if you looked around you could probably get that rig for about 160 bucks. (80 or so for the compre.. 80 or so for a quantum energy or accurist.. esp if you get the older models) jmo