Bantam1

The 2500 is the same size as a 2000 but with a deeper spool.

You probably should have posted this is the Shimano forum but I'll go ahead and answer it for you. Every region in the world has different fisheries and different demands of the products. Shimano has different divisions around the workd which are responsible for determining what products they need. The manufacturing process is the same, but the components used may vary by region. We have harder gear material for example on many of our reels due to the demands of US anglers. We typically target larger fish and use heavier line than many places such as Japan. Some of the parts may interchange between models. Many parts will not. Spinning reels for example are probably the least interchangeable out of all the products due to all the gear ratio options. Low Profile and round reels will be the closest. Long story short: Stick with the US products for this market. We spend a lot of time making sure they are correct for our customers demands. The foreign model reels are also not covered under our warranty.

They should be labeled SSR, SR, MR and DR. Super Shallow, Shallow, Middle and Deep. This shold help you figure it out. I would guess that the lip size and angle is different on each model The more vertical the lip the shallower it will run. The longer the bill the deeper it will run for example.

That reel was made for shallow water rockfish in Japan. It is a Curado 300 with a super shallow spool designed for light braided line. It really has no application here in the US.

Crucial CRCX711MH will work well for the 6" Hudd and the frog. I use this rod for both and I really like it.

http://www.***.com/descpageHDCLUCKY-LCFCBDR.html

They are the same as ours but Maroon in color.

I'll have to take you up on that offer when you are ready.

Anything that is not in my boat tackle locker does not work

Take me fishing there and I'll show you how to catch them ;D I here it can be good and it doesn't get much pressure. I have a friend moving there this month so I hope I can launch my boat there once he moves in.

Supposedly its a drinking water reservoir. Since the water goes to that region I make sure I pee in it as much as I can ;D

Who said its coming here? And if it does our version will have a warranty and the JDM version will not.

Here's a version of your thoughts. I have used this and found it to be very effective on the back of a darter head. The colors are amazing too. http://openwatercustombaits.com/open-water-products/14.html

There is a Casino/Hotel on the north end of the lake. I can't remember the name right now, but the rooms are nice and they have a launch ramp and docks. I think you can keep your boat in one of the slips.

I've been doing that with Fat Ika's for a while. I called it the sausage bait. I need to stop telling my friend at Yamamoto what I do with their baits ;D It look so dumb but it gets bit. Its like a short, fat Senko.

I probably shouldn't show everyone this but this is how I do it here in So-Cal. Its probably not a secret but I have not really shown anyone this rig for weighted flukes. First you'll need some of these. Sizes...well you need to figure out how deep you want to fish it. Heavier the weight the deeper you can go. If you go too heavy the fluke will roll upside down and sink that way. Its a fine line, but anyone with decent fishing sense can figure it out. I use the tungsten because they are heavier for the size. To get the weight I use the lead nail weights stick out of the sides of the plastic. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1232665957 This is how I rig the fluke. Excuse my quick Windows Paint drawing but you get the idea. The red is the hook (no I use a black hook) and the blue spots are where I place the weights. This balances the bait and allows you to fish the fluke the same as if it had no weight. Stick them straight through the bait. Do not run them lengthwise. Play around with the position of the middle weight. Sometimes the weight needs to be further back or forward depending on the size fluke you plan to use. The hook acts like a keel preventing the bait from rolling over. The weights are on the nose and middle of the bait to allow it to fall level and not nose heavy. How many dying shad fall nose down? When you twitch the bait it darts like normal and there will be a pause before it sinks. You can slow the sink down by adding a piece of toothpick next to the middle nail weight. I fish this down from 15-25 feet with great results during post spawn. Many bass have fallen for this bait Now you can keep this to yourself

I just saw high quality pictures of the new Scorpion and its not black. Its a dark burgandy/maroon that shifts color like the Curado E. Sorry to spoil everyone's wishes.

Natural- I was not trying to defend the product, I just wanted to explain why we did not use the metal winding checks on the rods. I was approached by the rod development manager at the time and he said that he wanted to build the lightest bass rod we have ever offered. My input to him was the actions, the SiC guides and the reel seat design on the casting rods. He did everything else. We discussed the fancy appearance items, but they did add 1-2 grams here and there. When you want to make the lightest rod you have to give up some things to hit your goals. With rods and weight, hairs are about what you can shave to reduce weight further. For example the lightest rod in the Cumara series is 3.28 ounces and the heaviest is 4.69 ounces. There isn't much out there that is lighter than that for similar actions and lengths.

The reason we do not have any of the fancy aluminum pieces on the Cumara rods was to reduce the weight. We set out to make the lightest and most sensitive bass rod in our line up. This meant deleting extra "bling" from the rod to drop the weight. Its like a race car. You do not need fancy wheels or A/C on a race car. We do not need extra metal on our lightweight rods.

Owner Mosquito for nose hooked baits in sizes 1, 2, 4, and 6 depending on the line size and plastic I decide to use. I mostly use 2 and 4. I like the rebarb hooks too for weedless applications. I also use the light wire Mustad wide gap. I can't remember the name so I'll guess and say its a Finesse Wide Gap in size 1 and 1/0.

We have those at my local lake too. They tend to hang out in the deep water though. I see them all the time when I drop my Aqua View down there. Thousands of them in 50-65 feet during the summer. It almost looks like its snowing down there at times because there are so many of them.

Raul hit it right on the head. A lot of factors affect the IPT. Gear ratio is meaningless unless its paired with the right spool dimensions. A tall spool with a low gear ratio will pick up the same amount of line (usually) as a short spool with a high gear ratio. The IPT will also change with a long cast. There is less line on the spool therefore your spool diamter changes which slows the IPT down even further. Me personally I like a faster reel. I crank with 5.8:1-6.2:1 reels, I fish swimbaits on my Curado 300 which has a 6.2:1 gear ratio. I find it easier to slow down when I'm fishing. I'm in So-Cal so everythng we do is pretty much slow until we get bit. I like being able to catch up to a fish that eats a bait and swims towards me. With a slow reel I feel like I am cranking for my life to catch up. There is a time and place for slower ratio reels I agree. I just rarely use a slow reel for anything I do.

They still work with no paint on the heads

It all depends on the weather and the water temp. It can be good fishing or really tough at that time of year. Bring some rip baits with you

Its a phone call away 877-577-0600. We also do not have any cool names for the lubricants like everyone else. Maybe we should call it Sake Grease or Katana Oil then people would stock it. Tackle Warehouse also sells it http://www.***.com/descpage-SHRG.html