crankbait2009

I wondered about the Bill Dance app, he pushed it on his TV shows and it has me interested. Once I get a smart phone that can use apps, I will definitely be getting it

I did a quick search on this site for threads about mysterytacklebox.com but came up short. Has anyone on here ever tried this service? What was the experience like? Worth the money?

jitterbug in black

well, I shall put the whole lily pad thought in my back pocket and throw the frog as if it was just another day.......................no lily pads required

I have the Rage Tail toads and have thrown them a few times but never saw any action, so back in the package they went. I don;t have much luck or patience for plastic baits so that didn't help matters none either.

I knew cartoons wern't doing me any good..............

I guess I was swimming in my own tears for never having luck with froggin' so I just blamed the non existance of lily pads

School me here folks. I have been to a number of local lakes/rivers/streams and I have NEVER seen a single lily pad. There are a lot of people that go "froggin'" for Bass. Do there need to be lily pads in order for bass to be waiting for a frog to come along? Do frogs come across all kinds of water regardless if there are pads or not? On a side note, why don't all lakes or bodies of freshwater have lily pads???? With me living in southern Ohio, I don't think that would be the main reason. Lily pads are in the midwest, right?

really? I was hoping for a nice catch........ah well.

I have stuck a volt meter on the socket.......nothing. I have cut the wires at the socket to see if I was at least getting power to the socket.......nothing. I have stuck the meter on the left side and that checked out fine. I will try one more splice point on the left side of the truck to see if I am at least gettingpower to that point before it branches off to each light. any other thoughts? (now that I have cut the wires, I can't exactly try the tilt steering wheel idea. I will splice the wires back together tonight and contiunue searching)

ha ha. Funny thing is, The truck I have has been very reliable. Sure the normal wear/tear items have needed replaced but nothing has really set me back o nthat truck. VERY dependable. The VW that I have had recent problems with is a "daughters first car" and I bought it knowing it had problems. I actually started replacing things on the VW since I had it apart. (ball joints, tie rods, hubs, bearings, etc). So I brought those problems upon myself Anyways, I have checked the fuses and all fuses are good. none are burnt out like I was hoping (easy fix)

I'm only going by what I am told....... I could spend $75+ on a diagnose by the dealer but I am trying to avoid all that. there has got to be a way to test this rather than guessing/replacing parts that dont need fixed.

i thought of the whole combination switch but im hoping that this problem is an easy fix as a ground issue. is there any way to "test" this switch to know for sure?

I have a 2002 Chevy S10, Vortec, 6cyl, 5 speed Normally, when my turn signal lamp goes out, the turn signal will click super duper fast letting you know "hey, you have a bulb burnt out". It looks like my rear right tail light is burnt out. So i installed a new one, and no luck. still not working. the front right signal works though. I checked my right tail light again last ***ht and the standard driving light comes on just fine. But the brake light and turn signal are not working. Everything seems to work except the right rear turn signal/brake light. I was told (without testing it) that it could possibly be the combination switch. Does this sound about right? If so, are there any links to show me how to do this step by step? Is it easier to have a dealer/mechanic do it? I have been told to check the grounding on that light but I can't seem to locate it. I have tried to follow the wiring from the light down the line to the source but all the wires are in that plastic shield and can't trace the ground. Anyone know where the ground is mounted to the frame?? What else could it be?

Thanks, I have thought about the benefits part. I currently get full bennies but my wife has them as well. I could get put on her benefits package and still be covered but not sure if it would end up hurting us more than anything. again, this is still something im thinking about......not sure which is best. stay at a job i hate or move on and be happy till i can live with one and only one job at 35 years of age, id hate to think I'm "stuck" where I am. Time will tell, huh?

no, not thinking of a lower tax bracket at all. I am bored off my arse with my current job. SO I was thinking, what if I found something I liked in two different PT jobs......If I could make the same as my FT position in two PT jobs, then what harm could it cause??? Thats the dilema I'm running in to right now. I want a one for one swap so my family does not get screwed over in the process from the change of income......

what is prompting this thought? I'd love to quit my full time job and find two part time jobs that I enjoy and not have to worry about the financial side of it as long as it all equals out in the end. I was using $5/$10 to make the math easier.....so I thought

crap, I misworded that. I have fixed it now...... I meant to say working two jobs at 20 hrs/wk each

OK I have a question about having 1 job vs 2. Let's say you have a job that pays $10 an hour, 40 hours a week. But you decide to quit and carry two jobs that equal out to $5 per hour, 20 hours a week each. Would it equal out to be the same salary at the end of the year, or would you end up making less due to all the extra taxes? (not including insurance and all that good stuff. Just referring to the deductions you have no control over (taxes, soc sec, etc.)

Deak - I did, waiting to hear back from them I really like the valve with the wingnut. That would make draining so much easier!!

Negative. I contacted sears and they will not ship it to the Sears store UNLESS I buy a water filtration system. Uh, really? As for the ones on Ebay, I am seeing them for $6 each and the one that you are referring to, how do you kow that is the same fit as A17038? There is nothing that cross references it. As for the 1/4" part of it. I saw some 1/4" drain valves at HD, Husky brand, but they look TOTALLY different. Obviously a no fit

I have a compressor that calls for a Porter Cable A17038 drain valve. (My compressor is a Craftsman) I have searched everywhere online for this part and have found a number of results ranging from high shipping costs OR its backordered with no clue on when it will be available). The only problem I am having is that all the places that carry it are charging $8-10 for shipping. This valve as you can imagine doesn't even come close to a pound. I am trying to find a drain valve model number that cross references the A17038. In hopes of finding this valve at a local store but am having no luck. I am really trying to avoid paying almost $10 to ship this valve. I'd live to get a few of them...... Does anyone know if this A17038 is the exact same valve as "X" manufacturer that can be used?

not sure if this matters or not BUT, the spots that she is having these accidents are becoming norms. She is using the litter pan as well as the same exact locations throughout the house. I could understand if it was an accident here and there but its the same three spots....including the litter pan.

cool, thank you

Yeah, I see those specifications whenever I look, but if I did not misunderstand the brands everyone was throwing out there...I thought I read that one person bought x wrench and y wrench couldnt even compare. I was kinda assuming they both had the same power requirements. Maybe not. But it sounded like they just used a different brand and it was a world of difference. Which is why I was wondering about what specs I should be interested in. Torque?