Marty

Might not be such a big deal if they lose to the Green Wave. : 8-) ;D

I never heard of any of those lures and none are listed on the company's web site. He does have a bait called D.S. Creature. I did look it up, by the way, and it's also a TV Series and a band name. Reaction Innovations truly has some different and clever names. They are offensive to some and I've seen a few posts by guys who refuse to buy their products because they're offended by one thing or another. It's my personal, fact-free opinion, that the huge interest in and success of the Sweet Beaver is more due to its name; otherwise, it's just another hunk of plastic, although it's a good lure, as are hundreds of other plastics.

Thanks to all who responded. Ad-Aware SE is no longer the latest version; the new one is called Ad-Aware 2007.

I've done a huge amount of bank fishing and also own a canoe. I also have a couple of friends with boats and we've gone on those to waters ranging from 25 acres to 40,000+. Almost all of my biggest bass have come from small waters, which may mean I stink in larger waters. But regardless, when it comes to lure selection and techniques, I'll use the same whether fishing from a boat or shore or in a small or large body of water. Size of water is not a factor that I use. I tend to use topwater more than anything else, one reason being that I like it and the other being that it's effective. I also fish very weedy water where lure choice is limited, so topwater is one of the techniques there too. But soft plastics, crankbaits, spinnerbaits are also used frequently.

Tip-ups. ;D Seriously, have you gotten a report about what waters might be open? Certainly some streams and maybe the two larger Finger Lakes, but I wouldn't count on much else.

I downloaded the newer version a few weeks ago and something new is this window that comes up when you click to download the updates. Sure, I can select something and continue, but what the heck does it mean? What happens differently when one is selected vs. another? Why should you select something near your location?

That is correct, the line should come off the supply spool counterclockwise. Let me restate the reason. When you look at your reel from the front, the line goes on clockwise, putting a twist in it with each revolution. Having the the line come off the supply spool counterclockwise partially offsets the clockwise twist. There is an exception: some reels with anti-twist line rollers have instructions that you should spool with the supply spool up and down like a baitcaster. My personal experience is that for these reels, either way works well. If in doubt, put the supply spool on the floor.

I agree 100%!! It's a known fact (simple physics) that all other things being equal, bigger spools have fewer line problems.

I'd definitely respool your 2500 reel. I can't think of why you'd have that problem; I've used similar sized reels and that same line without those problems. Make sure when you respool that the supply spool is on the floor such that the line comes off counterclockwise. The spool can also be held up and down if the reel has an anti-twist line roller and the instructions say that it's OK to spool that way. As to the other reel, I don't know that line, but in general, those Extra Tough lines are stiffer than what is normally recommended for spinning reels. Your problem is mitigated by the fact you're using a large (4000) reel.

I'd voice your concerns and ask your questions to your local DNR office. P.S. Quite a coincidence that we use the same quote in our signature lines. ;D

I never used an Exceler, but I've used Regal-Zs for years in the 2500 size. These have the same gear ratio and line capacity as the reel you're asking about. They have served me well for all the techniques I use, including cranking, and I think they'd serve you well also.

An EWG is also an offset hook, so I think the comparison would be regular gap vs. wide gap. The bigger the plastic, the bigger the gap. My rule of thumb is that the gap should be at least double the diameter of the plastic so that there's enough gap left to get through the plastic and into the fish's jaw.

You need to find your own comfort level. Maybe 1/8" is a good starting point. On my spinning reels, I fill them fuller than 1/8" but that works for me, maybe it's not right for everyone.

I use spinning and I just judge it based on experience. But if you want to be precise, use a spare spool, put your 80-100 yards on first and fill it with backing to within 1/8" or however far you fill it. Then reverse things and transfer the line to the spool you'll actually be using.

Dan hasn't shown any particular skills at running a football team except the moneymaking aspect of it. He spent millions on guys like Spurrier and Gibbs and hasn't got a whole lot to show for it. But even a blind pig finds an acorn every now and then and, who knows, Zorn may turn out to be very good. Gregg Williams was a disaster during his three years at Buffalo. Unless he has changed his style, I don't think you guys are missing much by not having him as head coach.

I've never used one, but there's little doubt that this would attract bass. After all, its little brothers are outstanding lures. Yes, you could probably lob it with your Lightning Rod, but you don't say what the power of that rod is. This lure comes with 2/0 trebles and you'd need some backbone to get good hooksets a majority of the time, even with razor-sharp hooks.

Don't forget the Original Floating Rapala. There are those who think it's the best topwater bait ever, even if it's not classified as a topwater.

My personal preference is to use backing with any line I'm using. Bass fishing just requires about 50-70 yards and I see no sense in spooling on 250 yards of line, then throwing it all away when you've used 50 yards just so you can spool on another 250 yards. The same principle applies whether it's Yo-Zuri, Stren, Trilene, or whatever.

Any spinning reel could do; it's personal preference. I've been cranking with spinning reels my whole fishing life. Whether using spinning or baitcasting, the fisherman is always going to adjust his cranking speed to get the lure movement he wants. There's no one "best" or "right" speed.

Whatever you get, for the sake of your eyes, make sure the glasses offer 100% UV protection.

There are mounting brackets on the market, such as the ones shown here: http://www.oakorchardcanoe.com/motormount.php My "Wenonah Guide to Canoeing" isn't too keen on motors. It needs to be mounted on the side and must be counterbalanced. They advise against using a motor for transport; they advise paddling to the fishing spot and using the motor only to maneuver around the spot. I'm lucky, I guess. The lakes I go to have good fishing spots within paddling distance of the launch and the ponds I fish (none bigger than 125 acres) are easily navigated from one end to the other. When it's real windy I just go shore fishing. Good luck in whatever you do.

If I understand your question correctly...on the forum index page, below the list of forums, there is a button "Mark all as read." Click it when you're done and next time the topics will have the "New" icon for those with posts since your last visit.

I don't have experience with these lures other than the model 6A. I don't know what the shape of the bill is supposed to do. But this is an excellent crankbait and, as far as I know, it's an extremely popular one, an "old standard", if you will. If someone's not catching fish with these they probably haven't used it in the right place at the right time. But I agree you should sell them if you have no confidence in them or you don't have the desire to use them to see if you can succeed with them.

I just fish recreationally and don't respool until the line is down enough to affect casting. This is for both mono and braid. Haven't had any problems.

Do any of you Marylanders know why separate records are kept for Freshwater and Chesapeake Bay? There are other states that have tidal water that combine things.